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category_outlined / Sports
SurferSurfer

Surfer June 2018

We founded Surfer Magazine in 1960 with a mission: to bring our readers a slice of the entire surfing world with each issue. And for over four decades, we've made good on that promise. Every issue of Surfer is packed with spectacular award-winning photos, provocative interviews with the leading pros, and journeys to the coolest undiscovered surf spots. With your order you'll get the Annual Oversized Issue, the Buyer's Guide, and the Hot 100, featuring the world's best new surfers.

Country:
United States
Language:
English
Publisher:
American Media Operations, Inc
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8 Issues

IN THIS ISSUE

access_time3 min.
editor’s note

“She’s got balls!” exclaimed the guy on a shortboard paddling next to me at a Dominican Republic reef pass, as Anna Santoro started scratching into an oversized set wave. It was one of the biggest swells of the season, and chunky overhead walls were hitting a shallow section and morphing into thick-lipped tubes that required ninja-like skills to knife into.Santoro lived on the North Shore of Oahu for many years, honing her skills at Sunset, Rocky Point and the outer reefs, so her wave choice wasn’t all-too surprising. But it did, apparently, surprise the guy next to me. Clearly, his anatomically-incorrect comment was meant to be a compliment of Santoro’s ability in consequential surf, but it did get me thinking. In surfing, we’ve historically judged the aquatic talents of a…

access_time5 min.
layne beachley, 45

When you know who you are, external pressures, judgments and projected opinions don’t seem to matter as much.Surfing is a unique sport in that you can enjoy it without competition. I’m no longer a competitive surfer, but I still surf all the time, so my connection with the sport is still incredibly strong. I don’t miss competition and I don’t miss the anxiety and weight of expectation that surrounds being at an event. Just being in the water and enjoying my surfing is enough.The best way to learn is by making mistakes. Some of the World Tour athletes today might make a mistake in a heat, but they can always correct themselves and fight their way out of a bad situation. I love seeing that. I love seeing the battle.The…

access_time1 min.
the pocket knife   9'4" x 22.75" x 2.9"

“I worked with shaper Matt Calvani on this board, which eventually became the first women’s pro model in the Bing line,” says talented San Diego slider Mele Saili about her enviable black-paneled log. “A lot of California boards are really wide in the nose to compensate for noseriding, but if you know where to be on the wave you don’t really need that much nose. I wanted something that could fit in the pocket in a variety of waves, but could still noseride. It’s got a little lower volume than most noseriders and is a bit narrower—so it can fit into the steeper part of the wave but can still ride like a longboard.” ■…

access_time4 min.
stirring the melting pot

A friend of mine who owns a surf brand recently received an absolutely bonkers series of racist emails. The sender purchased my friend’s product online, then somehow figured out his ethnicity after the fact. Before the order arrived, the customer sent an email canceling his purchase, citing my friend’s ethnicity as the reason. This potential customer had researched their purchase and picked my friend’s product out of a pretty vast field of competitors, only to decide that the ethnic heritage of one of the company’s owners was a deal breaker. Not the quality of the product. Not the price. The ethnicity of the owner.For my friend, this was shocking—these emails came from the very furthest fringes of left field; way beyond the outfield fence. They were made even weirder, somehow,…

access_time18 min.
more than a survivor

Hamilton may be a survivor of a traumatic event, but she refuses to see herself as a victim. (Photo by GRANT ELLIS)WE all know the story: On October 31, 2003, then 13-year-old Bethany Hamilton lost her left arm after being attacked by a 15-foot tiger shark at home in Kauai. The attack forever altered the course of Hamilton’s life—it also redefined her identity.Before that day, those around Hamilton saw her as a world champion in the making. She had already landed a sponsorship from the surf brand Rip Curl, and in the next few years she was expected to breeze through the World Qualifying Series, climb the World Tour ranks and eventually pocket a world title or two. But on that fateful Halloween morning, a large macro-predator swam up from…

access_time4 min.
showcase   joni sternbach

Kelly Slater stands in the backyard of his home on the North Shore of Oahu, holding perfectly still for the camera. He’s barefoot, wearing a pair of boardshorts and is holding a big-wave gun upright behind him. At first glance, it seems like just another photo shoot for the most popular surfer in the world, but the photographic equipment situated in front of him isn’t exactly the high-tech digital gear you normally see surf photographers carting around.Getting settled behind a tripod with a large, wooden field camera affixed to the top of it is Brooklyn-based photographer Joni Sternbach, who’s spent the past decade creating antique-looking, large-format portraits of contemporary surfers. Sternbach is one-part chemist, one-part photographer, using a process called wet-plate collodion—an early photographic technique from the 1850s—that makes modern…

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