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SurferSurfer

Surfer November 2015

We founded Surfer Magazine in 1960 with a mission: to bring our readers a slice of the entire surfing world with each issue. And for over four decades, we've made good on that promise. Every issue of Surfer is packed with spectacular award-winning photos, provocative interviews with the leading pros, and journeys to the coolest undiscovered surf spots. With your order you'll get the Annual Oversized Issue, the Buyer's Guide, and the Hot 100, featuring the world's best new surfers.

Country:
United States
Language:
English
Publisher:
American Media Operations, Inc
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8 Issues

IN THIS ISSUE

access_time18 min.
the wild coast

A massive event scaffold loomed above the white-sand beach and EDM beats washed over a crowd of teens busy scribbling things like “free hugs” on each other with Sharpies. Luxurious beachfront hotels overlooked a lineup occupied by world-class competitive surfers struggling to ride dribbling 2-foot waves. It felt as if I had fallen through a crack in the Earth, straight through the core, and somehow emerged at the U.S. Open. Kauaian Alex Smith bobbed around in a listless ocean while his fellow competitors tried to conjure scores out of ripples. In years past, the Ballito event had been pummeled by waves barreling so hard that their lips pitched out at 90-degree angles. This year, it was hard to tell if the event was even at a surf spot. I was in Ballito…

access_time2 min.
how to miss the swell of the century

This past June, when San Francisco surfer McNair Evans and friends left California for Indonesia just in time for the best swell in decades, they had no idea that Murphy’s Law would punch their long-planned surf trip right in the mouth. Here’s a timeline of maybe the most frustrating Indo mission ever, through no fault of their own. MARCH–APRIL Indo plan hatched while surfing blown-out, freezing San Francisco. Charter a sailboat to the little-surfed Banyak Islands. Leave on June 21. Yew! (Coincidentally, 99 percent of trips to Indo are planned while wearing a hood and booties.) MAY 29 Entire balance of boat charter paid for. Spoiler alert: This boat will never actually arrive. JUNE 16 Charter company relays message from boat captain: “He can’t get to the Banyaks in time…

access_time2 min.
dream sequence

access_time13 min.
a good cobber

Heath Joske was 16 hours from his birthplace of Nambucca Heads, Australia, driving across the Simpson Desert at dusk with 17 surfboards strapped to the roof of his beaten ’90s Honda, when he hit a kangaroo and totalled his car. He laughs as he retells the story: “The whole front of the car was rooted. I ended up hitching a ride with a couple of good cobbers that had an empty trailer. I was sitting up front, but I hadn’t had a shower in a day and a half; I can’t even imagine my stench. We spent the next 11 hours together backtracking to the town of Wagga Wagga.” Joske was headed home after competing in the Burton Pro, a World Qualifying Series (WQS) event held this past February in Newcastle.…

access_time3 min.
chasing a dream

If you stand on the right part of the beach in Cape St. Francis, South Africa, facing the right direction, you can almost trick yourself into thinking it’s 1963, and that Bruce Brown, Mike Hynson, and Robert August are going to pop out from behind a sand dune at any moment and paddle out for a solitary session. From that angle, all you see is a lineup filled with sandbars being fed by a dreamscape of windswept dunes. It’s hard to get the angle right, though. You have to walk way down the beach from the lighthouse at Seal Point, past hundreds of vacation homes, stop with your back to Cape St. Francis Resort, and face due north. I can drop a pin for you if you’d like. From a certain vantage,…

access_time1 min.
1953 malibu, california

Best time and place to be a surfer? Malibu, after the war, before Gidget. Dave Sweet would take your board order right there on the beach. Matt Kivlin, same thing. Joe Quigg, too, if you didn’t mind waiting. Simmons was still around. Hell, Velzy had a woodworking shop just south of the pier. There were only a few hundred surfers in L.A. at the time, so demand wasn’t high, but in a lo-fi, handmade, incredibly scaled-down fashion, Sweet and Velzy and the rest did for board design what Lockheed and Douglas did for aerospace. Round rails instead of square. Rocker instead of flat. Fiberglass and resin instead of lag bolts and spar varnish. The shortboard revolution was a bun fight in comparison. But why here? Why Malibu? Many reasons, industrial…

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