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SurferSurfer

Surfer October 2015

We founded Surfer Magazine in 1960 with a mission: to bring our readers a slice of the entire surfing world with each issue. And for over four decades, we've made good on that promise. Every issue of Surfer is packed with spectacular award-winning photos, provocative interviews with the leading pros, and journeys to the coolest undiscovered surf spots. With your order you'll get the Annual Oversized Issue, the Buyer's Guide, and the Hot 100, featuring the world's best new surfers.

Country:
United States
Language:
English
Publisher:
American Media Operations, Inc
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8 Issues

IN THIS ISSUE

access_time1 min.
mark mathews, the right

If you were determined to charge The Right’s monstrous caverns during a mega-swell, a finely tuned tow board would most likely be your equipment of choice. But for big-wave rider Mark Mathews, that couldn’t be further from the truth. “It was 15 to 20 feet for four days straight,” says Mathews. “This was the last day of the swell, so I took out my 5'6" soft top. It’s crazy how riding a soft top completely tricks your brain into thinking you can’t possibly get hurt. It lightens the mood in a heavy situation.”…

access_time3 min.
surf mythology

About six years ago, while I was attending college in Santa Barbara, California, I had a chance encounter with one of the greatest surfers of all time. Our paths didn’t cross in the lineup at Sandspit on a pulsing swell, inside The Cove at Rincon on low tide, or anywhere else you might expect to see one of the greats. I was at a smoothie shop on State Street, waiting by the counter for my peanut-butter-and-banana beverage, when he appeared: the most stylish surfer in history, the three-time world champion, the mythical Tom Curren. Curren glanced over at me, probably confused by my staring, and then he approached the counter. “Uhhh…hmmm…yeah…I’ll have the tropical pineapple,” he said to the cashier. “Errr…wait…no…I’ll get the red pineapple.” Then he handed her a crumpled…

access_time1 min.
points of difference.

Men’s R1® Front-Zip Full Suit The best wetsuits are the ones that feel like they’re not even there. They should provide the stretch and performance you need without sacrificing durability, as we believe wetsuits should last longer than one season. But that’s not all—they should also be made in a way that causes the least environmental harm. Achieving this means paying attention to each and every material used. That’s why our R1® suits are lined with high-stretch 100% recycled polyester, and the exterior face fabric blends 88% recycled polyester with 12% spandex for increased flex and stretch. They’re made with the most recycled content possible. By choosing recycled, we’re able to give new life to scrap material while decreasing our reliance on the petrochemicals used to make conventional polyester. It costs a little more,…

access_time5 min.
mythmaking 101

Fifteen or so years ago, I lucked into a miracle surf session in Baja. After hours of dusty, axle-grinding driving along the wind-blasted coast near [REDACTED], my friend pulled his truck off the jeep trail near a crumbling precipice overlooking a secluded rock-strewn pointbreak. The spot wasn’t on any of our surf maps, but a few days earlier we’d thought we’d seen rideable waves breaking there, albeit among a minefield of boulders. We got out of the truck, walked to the cliff ’s edge, peered over, and watched an azure right-hander peel flawlessly between two big rocks. Just as the last section threw over, a figure streaked out of the tube, trailed by a fine mist of spit. We raced down the cliff and stumbled right into paradise. A topless beauty…

access_time3 min.
the now

When he’s not surfing around Orange County, California, 33-year-old Brandon Jennings is likely in his garage, spending hours tinkering with old Nikonos underwater cameras. As a passion project, he finds and repairs the discontinued 35mm waterproof setups, ships them to people all over the world, and updates his blog (Nikonosproject.com) with the photos that he gets back from participants. The resulting images are as unique as the surfers who shoot them, and with hundreds of cameras out on loan, the project has taken on a life of its own. What led to the inception of theNikonos Project? When I moved to Orange County, I took a superstressful office job and decided to learn how to shoot digital cameras at Lowers and Salt Creek as a release. I started getting interested in film…

access_time5 min.
a mythical mooning

On a September morning in 1967, during the Malibu Invitational, surfing’s favorite antihero, Miki “Da Cat” Dora, paddled into a clean 4-foot wave. He popped up, stylishly trimmed across the face with perfect poise, per usual, and as he passed the judging panel, the light-footed prankster disdainfully dropped his boardshorts and mooned the judges. Or so the story goes. It’s stated as fact in surf-history books and retold as the naked truth by Dora’s contemporaries. Guys like Greg Noll, Steve Hilton, Jimmy Ganzer, and Robbie Dick say he revealed his derriére as an insulting gesture toward competitive surfing. “Miki’s bare ass at the ’67 Malibu contest was no accident,” says Denny Aaberg, contest attendee and co-writer of Big Wednesday. “He told me years later that he should have won that contest. ‘I…

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