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SurferSurfer

Surfer October #59.6 2018

We founded Surfer Magazine in 1960 with a mission: to bring our readers a slice of the entire surfing world with each issue. And for over four decades, we've made good on that promise. Every issue of Surfer is packed with spectacular award-winning photos, provocative interviews with the leading pros, and journeys to the coolest undiscovered surf spots. With your order you'll get the Annual Oversized Issue, the Buyer's Guide, and the Hot 100, featuring the world's best new surfers.

Country:
United States
Language:
English
Publisher:
American Media Operations, Inc
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8 Issues

IN THIS ISSUE

access_time3 min.
editor’s note

Can one wave change your life? It’s a question I’ve pondered a few times, typically after a really good day of surfing (e.g., when you somehow make a bottomed-out, Santa Ana-groomed barrel that was actually way beyond your skill level) or a really bad day of surfing (e.g., when you get entirely too confident amid a pulsing North Shore swell, snap your leash on a set wave and nearly drown). Like anything else in life, a given wave would need to offer an extreme, visceral experience to knock you out of your normal orbit and send you back to the beach with a different perspective on shit—which isn’t to say it doesn’t happen, but it certainly doesn’t happen often. Most of the time, surfing is just meaningless fun, and your views…

access_time5 min.
we shall fight on the beaches, we shall fight in the courts

A stubborn, selfish man, who I very much doubt even visits the ocean, might forever change the way we view beach access in California. For what seems like a decade now, Vinod Khosla, an obscenely-wealthy man in Silicon Valley, has fought the California Coastal Act—a 1976 law that forbids the blocking of public access to California beaches, among other things—to keep Martin’s Beach, a little strip of land he owns some 30 miles south of San Francisco, private by closing off access in violation of the law. I’ve written about the Martin’s Beach skirmish for a few years now, and as Khosla’s lost court case after court case, it always seemed as though he’d eventually give up, leaving the beach to the public that’s enjoyed it for decades. Not only has…

access_time15 min.
just north of now here

Sir Ernest Shackleton was a pioneer in what is now called the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration. Underfunded and overambitious, Shackleton set out to cross the entirety of Antarctica via the South Pole by land. In 1914, he assembled a crew of 28 men to tackle the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition aboard the ship, “Endurance”, but after six weeks charging through a thousand miles of pack ice on the ship, with a one-day sail left to the starting point for their land crossing, disaster struck. The ice began closing in around the “Endurance”, eventually trapping the ship “like an almond in the middle of a chocolate bar,” according to one of the men. The men drifted 1,186 miles in the 281 days they were stuck in the ice. “The noise resembles…

access_time19 min.
giving back (and taking waves)

In early March of this year, a low-pressure system blitzed through the Western Atlantic and delivered some of the biggest waves the Dominican Republic had seen in over a decade. At La Puntilla, the island’s premier big-wave spot, locals and visiting surfers alike were dusting off their rhino chasers and fastening their big-wave vests in preparation for the historic swell. Sure enough, the waves were already reeling on my first day in the Dominican Republic—the only problem was that I was nowhere near them. “Oh god, that was a dirty diaper,” said Christian Shaw, pulling rubbish from the shallow, stagnant canal we were drifting down on SUPs. Shaw, a skinny, bearded volunteer from Plastic Tides—an environmental non-profit started by avid stand-up paddlers—was leading our group on a cleanup in the narrow, freshwater…

access_time16 min.
it starts here

Dave Rastovich looks like he’s been washed ashore. He is lying on the southern edge of the Australian landmass, on a beach, on a spongy bed of rotting seaweed, in repose, hands folded across his chest, legs crossed, a white floppy hat crowned by an eagle feather pulled down over his face, a swarm of sand flies forming a halo around his head, eyes closed, nostrils whistling, lights out, cooked. As he likes to describe it, Rastovich is currently experiencing an “altered state.” How did he get here? Twenty-four hours earlier, Rastovich had flown halfway across Australia, driven overnight, only stopping to violently evacuate his stomach after contracting food poisoning from a truck stop, didn’t sleep a wink because he has a rule about never falling asleep in the passenger seat as a…

access_time2 min.
greeting chaos

During the last week of July, one of the biggest swells to ever march through the Southern Indian Ocean assailed the islands of Indonesia with unrelenting waves. On the island of Nias, locals and visiting surfers watched an ever-growing blob in the swell forecast morph into something that seemed to defy logic—a bigger and more powerful swell than the island had ever seen before. “I go to Nias every year when I see a big swell heading to Indo because it normally holds size and delivers really big, picturesque barrels,” says South African charger Matt Bromley, pictured here knifing into a bottomless pit. “This particular swell was like nothing we could have imagined at Nias. When I woke in the morning, I thought we weren’t going to surf because it was…

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