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SurferSurfer

Surfer October #59.6 2018

We founded Surfer Magazine in 1960 with a mission: to bring our readers a slice of the entire surfing world with each issue. And for over four decades, we've made good on that promise. Every issue of Surfer is packed with spectacular award-winning photos, provocative interviews with the leading pros, and journeys to the coolest undiscovered surf spots. With your order you'll get the Annual Oversized Issue, the Buyer's Guide, and the Hot 100, featuring the world's best new surfers.

Country:
United States
Language:
English
Publisher:
American Media Operations, Inc
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8 Issues

IN THIS ISSUE

access_time3 min.
editor’s note

Can one wave change your life? It’s a question I’ve pondered a few times, typically after a really good day of surfing (e.g., when you somehow make a bottomed-out, Santa Ana-groomed barrel that was actually way beyond your skill level) or a really bad day of surfing (e.g., when you get entirely too confident amid a pulsing North Shore swell, snap your leash on a set wave and nearly drown). Like anything else in life, a given wave would need to offer an extreme, visceral experience to knock you out of your normal orbit and send you back to the beach with a different perspective on shit—which isn’t to say it doesn’t happen, but it certainly doesn’t happen often.Most of the time, surfing is just meaningless fun, and your views…

access_time5 min.
we shall fight on the beaches, we shall fight in the courts

A stubborn, selfish man, who I very much doubt even visits the ocean, might forever change the way we view beach access in California. For what seems like a decade now, Vinod Khosla, an obscenely-wealthy man in Silicon Valley, has fought the California Coastal Act—a 1976 law that forbids the blocking of public access to California beaches, among other things—to keep Martin’s Beach, a little strip of land he owns some 30 miles south of San Francisco, private by closing off access in violation of the law.I’ve written about the Martin’s Beach skirmish for a few years now, and as Khosla’s lost court case after court case, it always seemed as though he’d eventually give up, leaving the beach to the public that’s enjoyed it for decades. Not only has…

access_time15 min.
just north of now here

Sir Ernest Shackleton was a pioneer in what is now called the Heroic Age of Antarctic Exploration. Underfunded and overambitious, Shackleton set out to cross the entirety of Antarctica via the South Pole by land. In 1914, he assembled a crew of 28 men to tackle the Imperial Trans-Antarctic Expedition aboard the ship, “Endurance”, but after six weeks charging through a thousand miles of pack ice on the ship, with a one-day sail left to the starting point for their land crossing, disaster struck. The ice began closing in around the “Endurance”, eventually trapping the ship “like an almond in the middle of a chocolate bar,” according to one of the men. The men drifted 1,186 miles in the 281 days they were stuck in the ice. “The noise resembles…

access_time19 min.
giving back (and taking waves)

Changing Tides Foundation co-founder Leane Darling Horton, getting her hand-plane on during a volunteer mission to the Dominican Republic this year. (Photo by JIANCA LAZARUS)The women of CTF, sharing the lineup with the girls in the Mariposa program. From left to right: Nicole Martínez, Sujeidy Oxiis, Sarah Brady, Anna Santoro, Soranny Perez, Naomi Martínez, Edaisa Torres, Pamela Cuadros, Leane Darling Horton, Katiana Yilo, Becky Mendoza and Leah Dawson. (Photo by JIANCA LAZARUS)CTF co-founder Anna Santoro, giving a clinic on proper paddling technique and how to escape a rip current. (Photo by JIANCA LAZARUS)In early March of this year, a low-pressure system blitzed through the Western Atlantic and delivered some of the biggest waves the Dominican Republic had seen in over a decade. At La Puntilla, the island’s premier big-wave spot,…

access_time16 min.
it starts here

With long stretches of overgrown, pristine coastline in New South Wales, it’s no surprise that Dave Rastovich and many other local residents are so intent on preserving natural balance at home.Rastovich, burying rail on the kind of powerful, stylish turn that first catapulted him to surf stardom roughly two decades ago.Dave Rastovich looks like he’s been washed ashore.He is lying on the southern edge of the Australian landmass, on a beach, on a spongy bed of rotting seaweed, in repose, hands folded across his chest, legs crossed, a white floppy hat crowned by an eagle feather pulled down over his face, a swarm of sand flies forming a halo around his head, eyes closed, nostrils whistling, lights out, cooked.As he likes to describe it, Rastovich is currently experiencing an “altered…

access_time2 min.
greeting chaos

During the last week of July, one of the biggest swells to ever march through the Southern Indian Ocean assailed the islands of Indonesia with unrelenting waves. On the island of Nias, locals and visiting surfers watched an ever-growing blob in the swell forecast morph into something that seemed to defy logic—a bigger and more powerful swell than the island had ever seen before.Bromley, aiming for the light at the end of the tunnel. (Photo by TED GRAMBEAU)Even from afar, the swell looked absolutely terrifying. (Photo by RYAN CRAIG)Jaws standout Ian Walsh unexpectedly found himself employing the big-wave barrel-riding techniques he picked up on the island of Maui to the island of Nias. (Photo by RYAN CRAIG)Nathan Florence, in the maw of a yawning Nias beast. (Photo by RYAN CRAIG)Florence…

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