category_outlined / Sports

Surfer September 2015

We founded Surfer Magazine in 1960 with a mission: to bring our readers a slice of the entire surfing world with each issue. And for over four decades, we've made good on that promise. Every issue of Surfer is packed with spectacular award-winning photos, provocative interviews with the leading pros, and journeys to the coolest undiscovered surf spots. With your order you'll get the Annual Oversized Issue, the Buyer's Guide, and the Hot 100, featuring the world's best new surfers.

United States
American Media Operations, Inc
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8 Issues


access_time1 min.
fergal smith, ireland

Most surfers think they need to travel far and wide, racking up airline miles and bagage fees, to score perfect, uncrowded waves. Fergal Smith, on the other hand, has found incredible waves by going the opposite route. “This wave is an example of why I don’t travel anymore,” says Smith (pictured here). “I was traveling the world, chasing good waves, but generally I got the best waves at home in Ireland. They don’t come all the time, but when they do it’s nice to be grounded here, connected with the place I really love. I don’t need to go all around the globe looking for those waves. I’ll just wait until they arrive.”…

access_time4 min.
punching the shark

It’s twilight and both the sky and water are the same tone of slate gray. The waves are absolutely perfect and you’re the only person in the water, which doesn’t make much sense, but you don’t dwell on it; like I said, it’s pumping. But suddenly a large dorsal fin appears in front of you and it all becomes clear. The lineup is empty because this spot is sharky as hell, and now the ocean’s apex predator is sniffing your toes. So what do you do? Every surfer in history has played out a version of this scenario in their head. When I was a kid, before I knew it was bad luck to discuss such things out loud, I would frequently debate this topic with my friends. Gouging the shark’s…

access_time5 min.
the last best surfer

If you’re the sort of surfer who takes time to read this magazine and aren’t simply flipping through the pages to drool over the photos, then I’m confident I can sketch a spot-on picture of you, dear reader. You’re a man, roughly 31 years old. You’re a goofyfoot, and you surf twice a week. You first got tubed on a trip to Costa Rica when you were 19. You work as a sales rep for a beer distribution company in Ocean City, New Jersey. You drive a 2009 Subaru Forester (blue; dent in right rear fender), you have an Australian sheepdog called Randy, your favorite band is The Pixies (well, you tell people that, but really it’s the Dave Matthews Band), your wife’s name is Robin, and she has a…

access_time2 min.
richard “dog” marsh, réunion island

Réunion Island is the cruelest place in all of surfdom. The tiny Creole-flavored French outpost, 450 miles east of Madagascar, home to less than a million people, has been ripped by 17 shark attacks (seven fatal) in just four years. Swimming and surfing: banned. Tourism, once a thriving sector of the Réunion economy, is bleeding out. The Francophile commitment to biodiversity is the governmental line, but black-ops shark hunting is on the rise. What a change from 23 years ago, when this very magazine introduced Réunion to its readership as a place that brought “a new dimension to the concept of an island paradise.” Saint-Leu, Réunion’s hypnotic front-and-center reef-pass wave, was a “hybrid of Restaurants, Tamarin Bay, and Uluwatu.” Réunion was a place of dreams. Indeed it was the bright, wiggling…

access_time3 min.
tracing the future

Big data is all around us. It’s lurking over your shoulder even now (don’t look). Everything we’ve ever pointed our cursors at while perusing the Internet is recorded in a quietly humming database somewhere in Silicon Valley. Our phones drop little digital breadcrumbs everywhere we go, leaving a trackable and monetizable GPS trail. And now, for better or worse, depending on your personal threshold of technophilia, every detail about our surfing performance can be recorded, analyzed, archived, and—the holy grail of the Information Age—shared. TRACE, about the size and shape of a Reese’s Peanut Butter Cup, is crammed full of inertial sensors, GPS antennae, gyroscopes, and accelerometers, among other pieces of whiz-bang digital gadgetry. When mounted on a surfboard (though smaller models that can be sunk into a surfboard’s deck are…

access_time3 min.
alrik yuill on the connection between shaping and sculpting

Alrik Yuill’s Costa Mesa, California, studio is practically a piece of art in itself. The floor is a collage of resin, foam dust, plaster, and clay all caked together in a beautiful mess on the concrete. Yuill is accustomed to this kind of disarray, spending nearly all his time in the space working on sculptures or mowing foam in the attached shaping bay. He even sleeps in a loft above the workspace. In the countless hours he spends working on stylized plaster waifs and unconventional hand-shapes, Yuill has developed a knack for using his hands to bring abstract concepts to life. Which came first: shaping or sculpting? I’ve been sculpting since I was 5, I guess. I used to do “sculptures” out of wax at the beach. I would go to the…