Surfer September #59.5 2018

We founded Surfer Magazine in 1960 with a mission: to bring our readers a slice of the entire surfing world with each issue. And for over four decades, we've made good on that promise. Every issue of Surfer is packed with spectacular award-winning photos, provocative interviews with the leading pros, and journeys to the coolest undiscovered surf spots. With your order you'll get the Annual Oversized Issue, the Buyer's Guide, and the Hot 100, featuring the world's best new surfers.

United States
American Media Operations, Inc
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8 Issues

in this issue

3 min.
editor’s note

Close your eyes for a moment and imagine what it would be like if all social media platforms merged into one. Now imagine if, somehow, that monolithic übernetwork became an actual, physical place. You’d approach the entrance to Instwitterbook and admire the sleek design and warm, inviting colors of the façade. You’d step inside and marvel at the staggering number of people filling the room and interacting with one another—and be perplexed by how many cats also seem to be roaming around. But as impressive as the size, scope and intuitive nature of this place are, something doesn’t feel quite right. Upon closer examination of the crowd, you realize that while some people are engaging in a meaningful exchange of ideas, just as many seem to just be screaming at each…

5 min.
dave wassel, 45

“When I was a kid I’d get that same rush at Kailua Beach Break, then I’d have to get it at Pipe, then the outer reefs, and now we go to Pe'ahi for it. The size of the waves change, but the thrill has always been the same.” The vibe of the North Shore has changed dramatically over the years—it’s very user-friendly now. It’s gone from being a very rural place to a very commercial place, and people realized that one wave can make or break your career. But I love it when people come here to surf. I want to see it. I want to be impressed by good surfing. But at the same time don’t go paddle around Michael Ho and take his wave. I think he’s been here…

5 min.
global versus local

I recently decided to fully embrace the NorCal, outdoorsy-male stereotype that I was already the walking embodiment of, and went out and bought my very first real-deal mountain bike. I spent an embarrassing amount of time researching my new steed. Oh, there were dilemmas. Hardtail or full suspension? The number of gears I’d need took some serious thinking. The color? Huge decision. Tire size? My god, the mindbendingly-hard choices never ceased. When the box containing my new bike showed up at my door, a buddy and I cracked a couple beers and spent a boozy afternoon assembling the thing. While threading on the pedals, I noticed a big “Made in China” sticker on the frame. I thought absolutely nothing of it at the time. I would have been shocked had…

1 min.
the switchblade 7'10"

“The board is based off Barry Kanaiaupuni-style boards that were ridden in the ’70s during the Shortboard Revolution,” says Newport style master and shaper Jared Mell. “Alex Knost and his dad are friends with the Russell family of Russell Surfboards, and when he [Robert “Russell” Brown] passed away, Alex was invited to take a look in his shaping bay and there was an old BK shape sitting in the back, for who knows how long. Alex took a template off it and blended the curves to make it shorter. Then Rich Pavel and I retemplated that together and I used it to shape this. Obviously these boards aren’t meant to be surfed in every type of wave, but I really admire the style of surfing that you can do on…

4 min.
alana blanchard,

So your son, Banks, is a little over six months old now. I’m guessing things are pretty wild for you at the moment. Yeah, it’s the most amazing thing ever, but it’s also probably the hardest thing ever. It’s a learning process just trying to maintain your own lives while still being the best parents you can be, and you figure things out on a daily basis. Obviously the decision to become a parent is never straightforward, but it probably gets even more complicated when you’re a professional surfer in the prime of your career. Were there other parents/professional athletes you looked to for inspiration in how to pull it off? The person who I looked to most was probably Bethany [Hamilton]. I’ve always looked up to her, but seeing her as a…

3 min.
eddy garcia,

How did you get into agriculture? I grew up in Hawaii. I put surfing above most other things. I had to be creative as far as eating went so that I wouldn’t have to make lots of money and instead could just surf. When I was a teenager I wound up going to Molokai and was adopted into a Hawaiian family by the hanai system. My job was to hunt and fish and grow food for the family. I pretty much surfed all day, every day, and the rest was fishing and hunting. I wanted to grow food and I wanted to learn to do it the right way by regenerating the soil. What made you decide regenerative agriculture was the right way? I grew up around the sugarcane and pineapple industries dumping…