Taste of the South

editor’s letter

AS MUCH AS I LOVE visiting farmers’ markets throughout the high summer months, September is a bit of a relief. I find myself missing the peaches and corn, but I welcome the squashes and apples with open arms. September helps me to look forward to the cooler months and encourages me to cook with abandon (without the fear of overheating my house). When we lived in New Orleans, my wife and I delighted in the area’s bounty of local seafood joints and helped ourselves to untold numbers of cold oysters on the half shell at fancy restaurants and seaside shacks alike. Georgia Clarke’s trip through the Mississippi Gulf Coast (page 39) reminds me of how special that region is and how I can hardly wait to spend more time there, lolling…

dishing with matthew register

Summer, even in September, is prime time for Southern barbecue, and Matthew Register is well-seasoned in feeding the crowds. But his journey to success with the ’cue he serves today at Southern Smoke BBQ in Garland, North Carolina, didn’t start in a culinaryschool or in another restaurant’s smoke pit. Matthew taught himself the dos and don’ts of barbecue in his own backyard with his family of taste testers by his side, and after garnering a reputation in the community through a never-ending series of catering gigs, he and his wife, Jessica, decided to open the doors to their own restaurant. The rest is delicious, mouthwatering history. Why barbecue? What drew you to that cooking style? My wife’s grandfather actually owned a barbecue business in the 1950s and ’60s, and I come…

tastes & tools

1 CREAMALICIOUS ICE CREAM As one of the only African American-owned national ice cream brands in production, Creamalicious serves their award-winning artisan flavors by the pint, and each one celebrates owner Chef Liz Rogers’s Southern roots and community. In fact, her own family recipes—passed down from four generations—were the inspiration behind each spoonful of decadence. Pick up your favorite flavor today at grocery stores nationwide. $7.99 per pint; shopcreamalicious.com 2 WALLOWING WHISTLEPIG HOT SAUCE Handcrafted in the mountains of Southwest Virginia, the team at Wallowing Whistlepig released their “Rainbow Line” of hot sauces. These eight eccentric hot sauces feature unique ingredients from collard greens and sweet potatoes to apples and grapes. That means they have a sauce to suit your menu every day of the week. We’re partial to the red label sauce…

new + noteworthy

WILLA’S | Tampa, Florida A family-friendly neighborhood restaurant and bar in North Hyde Park, Willa’s has a crew that prides itself on being a fully from-scratch kitchen. Everything is made fresh daily by their talented kitchen team to make sure each plate guarantees unforgettable quality. When it comes to quality, the restaurant’s signature dish, its rotisserie chicken, is in a league all its own. It sets the tone for other memorable dishes found on the restaurant’s diverse menu. willastampa.com LENOIR Charleston, South Carolina A meal in Lenoir’s bright, homey dining room reminds you of the diversity within the South’s foodways. Dishes like Cornmeal-Crusted Catfish and Fried Collards honor the region’s famous cuisine while also freshening it up for the modern foodie. They pair it all with another well-known commodity in the South: can’t-beat hospitality.…

comfort food fare

GEORGE AND I MARRIED IN 1968. Soon after, George took his duty station with the Marines, and I, a young schoolteacher, stayed home with my parents. When George came home, we finally settled into married life on our own. Truth is, neither of us knew much about the world, and while we had a “plan,” looking back, I am not sure it was a good one. We were both naïve, and we were dirt poor. In fact, as television became all the rage for home entertainment, our budget forced us to settle for watching two goldfish swim around in an aquarium. And when you are poor, cooking on a budget becomes a must. My Great-Aunt Lucile gave us a cast-iron skillet. It wasn’t the prettiest nor was it the fanciest. But,…

late-summer bounty

Cast Iron-Seared Okra MAKES 6 TO 8 SERVINGS Use up a bumper crop of okra for this simple and easy side. ⅓ cup yellow cornmeal1 teaspoon kosher salt¾ teaspoon ground black pepper¼ teaspoon onion powder¼ teaspoon garlic powder¼ teaspoon smoked paprika¼ cup olive oil, divided2 pounds medium fresh okra, stems trimmed and halved lengthwiseGarlic-Pepper Sauce (recipe follows) 1. In a small bowl, combine cornmeal, salt, pepper, onion powder, garlic powder, and paprika. 2. In a large cast-iron skillet, heat 1 tablespoon oil over medium-high heat. Add one-fourth of okra, cut side down, and cook for 2 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low; cook until browned on the bottom, about 2 minutes. Turn okra, and reduce heat to low; cook until tender, about 2 minutes. Transfer to large bowl. Repeat with remaining oil and okra. 3. In same…