Travel + Leisure April 2022

AMBROISE TÉZENAS OCEANS APART “One morning, I witnessed a hawksbill turtle laying eggs on the beach of North Island,” says the photographer, who traveled from his home in Paris to shoot the Seychelles for T+L. “It was a highlight to witness such a pure, natural moment in the wild.” FRANCES CHA HOMEWARD BOUND (P. 38) “Cars are only allowed in Andong Hahoe Village after five p.m.,” says the Brooklyn-based author, who wrote about traditional hanok architecture in South Korea for this issue. “We drove in at nightfall—it was exciting to navigate the tiny roads in the dark.” MARCIA DE SANCTIS OCEANS APART (P. 72) “I met so many wonderful people in the Seychelles,” says the writer, who lives in Connecticut. Among them was Dominique Dina, a 23-year-old Seychellois who runs a conservation team on North Island. “He told…

COVID HAS MADE IT easy to get sucked into repetitive, unhealthy patterns—not eating right, not sleeping enough, maybe having a little too much wine over a weekend. Because we’re all worrying about the world, right? But I’ve come to realize that sometimes you have to shake off the old ways, forcefully, to usher in change. When you see someone make a shift—a move, a job, a new relationship—you sit up and take notice. Maybe you think to yourself: Hey, I can do that, too. Opening up to the universe can have a domino effect. On page 94, you can read how Argentine chef Francis Mallmann—who built his now Netflix-famous name grilling meat over an open flame—made such a change. His latest cookbook, Green Fire, out next month from Artisan, features 75 recipes…

A GLOBETROTTER’S GUIDE TO THE LATEST IN TRAVEL A CRISP WIND hits your face cruising across the plains of South Africa’s KwaZulu-Natal province, but this morning is not a typical game drive. You’re on a mission—to locate the resident pack of African painted dogs, dart the alpha female, and help your conservationist guide replace her radio collar for monitoring. The experience is about as exhilarating as it gets, because you know you’re helping to study and preserve one of this ecosystem’s many endangered species. All across the continent, small conservation projects are making a real difference, and many offer opportunities for travelers to contribute behind the scenes—and provide much-needed revenue for local nonprofits. CARE FOR THE ENDANGERED BLACK RHINOCEROS Volunteers at Imire Rhino & Wildlife Conservancy in Zimbabwe rise with the sun to feed…

MORE BRANDS (and consumers) are recognizing the environmental costs of fast fashion, but the statistics are still shocking: many manufacturers overproduce pieces by up to 40 percent, and each year, millions of tons of clothing are buried or burned. Combatting this crisis is a raison d’être for upstate New York–based stylist Melissa Ventosa Martin. For her, stocking a sustainable closet means changing our perception of luxury—avoiding waste, investing in quality, and understanding why things cost what they do. And as a former editor at Departures, T Magazine, and, once upon a time, Travel + Leisure, she knows that in many parts of the world, small-scale artisanship is still alive and well. Her latest project is Old Stone Trade: an online marketplace that works with a global array of artisans and independent…

MAT FOLLAS STOPPED in front of two white-flowered plants on Dorset’s glorious Chesil Beach. “One is edible,” Follas told the group. “The other will kill you.” He asked me which one I thought was safe. I guessed right: it was hogweed, which has seeds like cardamom. The other one was hemlock, best known for killing Socrates. Follas is an award-winning chef and the owner of Bramble (bramblerestaurant.com; tasting menu $66), an acclaimed restaurant in the town of Sherborne, which is about 30 miles from the beach. When he’s not in the kitchen, he leads wild-food foraging courses in his home county. He was quick to emphasize the hidden dangers: you need an expert guide, especially where mushrooms and berries are concerned. As we walked, Follas pointed out vetch, a flavorsome species of…

“‘HOW’S THE FRONTENAC NOIR this year?’ asked no one, ever,” jokes Kendra Knapik, the owner-grower-winemaker at Vermont’s Ellison Estate Vineyard. But she certainly knows the answer—Knapik and her husband, Rob, grow this little-known hybrid on their 50-acre plot, which they purchased four years ago on an island near Burlington. As climate change redraws the wine-making map, many believe the industry’s future will be in cooler regions like this, where a “use what you have” ethos is producing exquisite results. The Knapiks are part of a new crop of Vermont vintners who have taken over vineyard sites planted with previously underappreciated American grapes: hardy, disease-resistant, and an obvious fit for low-intervention agriculture and natural wine making. Read on for the producers to know. ELLISON ESTATE VINEYARD Two visionaries with backgrounds in medicine and science,…