Cook's Illustrated July/August 2020

At Cook's Illustrated, our test cooks are dedicated to testing and retesting recipes 20, 30, sometimes 50 times until we come up with a recipe that will come out right the first time -- and every time -- you make it. And each issue of Cook's Illustrated is 100% ADVERTISING FREE, so you get unbiased and objective information on every page. As we like to say at Cook's Illustrated, "We make the mistakes so you don't have to."

United States
Boston Common Press, LP
6 期號


2 分鐘
a place in the sun

A blade of sunlight cuts through a gap between the shade and the window frame and lands on the couch cushion next to me; within minutes my cat, Miamo, has intercepted it with her left flank. All cats are expert solar trackers, intuitively migrating throughout the day to ensure an optimal angle of incidence with the sun’s rays. But black cats get the most bang for their buck. Miamo, who resembles a cast-iron Dutch oven in more ways than one, finds and absorbs light energy with aplomb. Over the past months of keeping distance, staying home, and looking out for loved ones, I’ve watched with adoration as Miamo spins her daily orbit around the house. She’s good at staying within these walls. I, on the other hand, need a lot of…

4 分鐘
quick tips

Clean Up Messy Spills with Salt If Rose Smythe of San Francisco, Calif., spills oil or accidently drops an egg, she cleans up the mess with salt. She covers the spill with a generous amount of table or kosher salt (for eggs, she removes any large shell pieces first) and lets the mixture sit until the moisture has been soaked up, about 5 minutes. Once a paste has formed, she scoops it up with a paper towel or dustpan before cleaning the area with soap and water. Slice Avocado with a Spoon Brandy Schneider of Boulder, Colo., always used to slice avocados by cutting the flesh inside the halved, pitted fruit with a paring knife, but it was difficult to keep the slices intact when she later scooped them out with a spoon.…

8 分鐘
smashed burgers

If the edge-versus-center debate were about burgers instead of brownies, my allegiances would fall squarely with Team Edge—or, in this case, Team Crust. Because as much as I appreciate the beefy, medium-rare middle of a plump, juicy burger, the savory depth of well-browned beef is simply unrivaled. That’s why I love smashed burgers. These diner icons share the same thin, verging-on-well-done profile as typical fast-food burgers, as well as their all-American array of fixings: gooey American cheese; creamy, tangy burger sauce; crisp lettuce; thinly sliced tomato; and a soft bun. But with a smashed burger, extra-special attention is paid to making the brownest, crispiest, most savory crust. Maximizing that Maillard browning is where technique comes in, but as I discovered, there’s more to it than simply searing the patty hard on each…

9 分鐘
malaysian chicken satay

Imagine the most flavorful bite of grilled chicken you’ve ever had: robustly seasoned, gorgeously charred, and crisp at the edges. That’s what you get with every bite of satay, one of the world’s proudest examples of meat on a stick and quintessential street-food fare all over Southeast Asia. The proteins and flavors vary from region to region, but the gist is more or less the same across the board: Small pieces of chicken, pork, beef, goat, or various types of seafood are coated in a flavorful liquid or paste; threaded onto skewers; and grilled hot and fast and very close to the coals so that almost every inch of their surfaces singes and picks up savory, smoky grill flavor. As soon as the food comes off the fire, it’s embellished…

7 分鐘
the silkiest risotto

I was deep into recipe development for corn risotto when I started to wonder if the dish might be fundamentally flawed. There were hurdles to saturating the creamy rice with corn flavor that also seemed integral to risotto cookery. First, heat drives off many of the compounds we associate with the vegetable’s fresh, sweet taste. Second, chicken broth and wine obscure the flavor further. When I tried to overcome these challenges by adding handfuls of snappy peak-season kernels to the pot and infusing the rice with a concentrated broth I’d made by simmering the spent cobs, I failed to capture the vibrant, sweet corn flavor that is the raison d’etre of the whole dish. Happily, it all worked out in the end, and even better than I thought it would. Because…

8 分鐘
moroccan fish tagine

Atagine is a North African earthenware pot with a tall, cone-shaped lid; it’s also the name for the wonderfully aromatic and complex fish, meat, or vegetable stews that are cooked inside it. But you don’t need to own this specialty vessel to enjoy the dish, because these days the next best thing—a Dutch oven with a tight-fitting lid—is also commonly used. I set out to create a light, fresh-tasting fish tagine. The type of fish used in a tagine depends on the region and its available seafood, though white-fleshed fillets are common in Morocco. Regardless of the type of fish, the fillets are typically marinated in chermoula, an extraordinarily flavorful mixture of fresh herbs, garlic, and heady spices that’s loosened with olive oil and lemon juice (see “Herb Paste, Meet Spice…