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Esquire's Big Black Book

Esquire's Big Black Book Fall 2017

It's filled with almost 200 pages of useful information on everything from the proper way to mix the perfect martini to having a custom suit made and more. It is truly the one resource no modern man should be without.

國家/地區:
United States
語言:
English
出版商:
Hearst
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本期

4 最少
the taste test

We’re devoting this issue to a subject that, more than ever these days, needs to be championed: taste. I’m not talking about taste in that sniffy, peer-down-one’s-nose sense. No, we’re talking about standing for good taste and all it entails: integrity, manners, a sense of right and wrong, and most of all wit. In that spirit, the staff asked me a few dinner-party-ready questions. How do you define taste? It’s having the educated instinct to spot the superlative, the best—which is often not the most expensive—and yet not becoming a bore about it. Who taught you about taste? Many people, starting with my mother, a ballet teacher. She couldn’t get me into a pair of tights, God bless her, but this French art form she loved was always there, a standard of…

3 最少
the tasteful eight

A Killer Coat There are careful, quiet coats, and there are coats that make a statement. You should have a few of both. This option from Armani (file under: statement) borrows heavily from the Swedish M1909, a canvasand- sheepskin army parka in production throughout World War II. Armani’s updated take drops the canvas and trades sheep- for lambskin, giving you all the style and warmth of the original at half the weight. Coat ($23,195) by Giorgio Armani;armani.com. A Jacket with Teeth Houndstooth isn’t exactly new (the earliest example of the weave dates back to 100 b.c.—it was found in a peat bog), but small-scale tweed patterns like this have reached a new apex this season, especially when produced by Italian designers like L.B.M. 1911, which creates unlined, easy-to-wear jackets that look every bit as…

6 最少
picking up the thread

“Feel this jacket—it’s so soft, isn’t it? So delicate.” Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Ermenegildo Zegna, is showing me an exquisite light-gray wool suit. Then he grabs a bottle of soy sauce from his desk, pours it all over the fabric, and smiles. It’s sartorial vandalism, several thousand dollars’ worth of damage no dry cleaner on earth would touch. Next he takes a paper napkin, wets it with mineral water (still, not sparkling), and quickly, easily wipes the stain from the garment. “Not so delicate after all,” he says, laughing like a mischievous kid as he shakes out the gray wool, good as new. It’s been more than a year and a half since Sartori took his new position overseeing every creative aspect of Ermenegildo Zegna Group’s three lines (the sporty…

4 最少
machine learning

The Chronometer Allow us to brush up your vocab: A chronograph is any timepiece with a stopwatch function; a chronometer is a watch that meets extreme standards of accuracy, as defined by COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres). Each chronometer is tested for two weeks before earning the designation, at which point it’s engraved with a certification number. Think of it as a watch that comes with its own diploma. Cosmograph Daytona Chronometer ($27,500) by Rolex; rolex.com. The Tachymeter Probably the most common—and least used—function on a chronograph is the tachymeter, a ring of numbers often inscribed on the bezel of a watch. Used in conjunction with the second hand of the chronograph, it relates elapsed time to distance traveled so that you can calculate your average speed (or, if you know your speed,…

2 最少
been down so long. .

Chalk it up to one more ’80s icon gone to seed. Like James Spader, so provocative in Sex, Lies, and Videotape, the once-bold down jacket has lost its edge. Is there now any piece of outerwear more sexless and soulless? Hard to believe, but there was a time when the down jacket was the winter version of a leather biker jacket: It was born of utility and quickly acquired a rebellious status. Over the past decade, though, something went wrong, and it lost its swagger, morphing into the uniform of soccer moms and helicopter dads everywhere, perfect for braving the heavy merges and left-handturn lanes in safely shuttling the team from practice to pizza to culde- sac. You know the look—a snugfitting, prim little number, churned out in as sober and…

6 最少
moves like redford

Icon No. 1 Robert Redford All the President’s Men 1976 From politics to fashion, the 1970s were a time of chaos—a time when everyone seemed to obey the mantra “If it feels good, do it.” Everyone, maybe, except Washington Post reporter Bob Woodward. Woodward was just 28 years old and nine months into his job when, along with Carl Bernstein, he broke the story that would snowball into Watergate and force President Nixon from office. The 1976 film All the President’s Men effectively captures that era’s tension, paranoia, and drama. It also captures a lot of bad men’s fashion. Bureaucrats wear ties as wide as a baby’s bib; Dustin Hoffman’s Bernstein sports bell-bottom hiphugger pants and stacked-heel loafers. And then there’s Woodward (played by Robert Redford), giving a master class in refined East Coast…