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Esquire's Big Black Book

Esquire's Big Black Book Spring 2018

It's filled with almost 200 pages of useful information on everything from the proper way to mix the perfect martini to having a custom suit made and more. It is truly the one resource no modern man should be without.

國家/地區:
United States
語言:
English
出版商:
Hearst
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本期

2 最少
talk with your hands

Italian: Intesa. English: Agreed. As in, “I see what you’re saying” or “We understand each other.” Italian: Se l’intendono. English: Secret liaison. The index fingers, lightly and discreetly touching, “indicate that two people have reached a secret understanding.” In other words, they’re lightly and discreetly touching. Italian: Non ho capito. English: I don’t understand. “The hand cups the ear, as if to increase chances for reception.” Italian: Pollici su. This gesture determined the fate of gladiators in the Roman arena. English: Thumbs-up. Pretty self-explanatory. Italian: Tutto bene. English: Okay. This one translates everywhere. Italian: È un dritto. English: Clever. “The back of the thumb is drawn across the cheek from ear to mouth, to indicate that the person under discussion knows the ropes.” Italian: Due spaghetti. English: Something to eat. Twist your fingers to imitate a fork in pasta. Italian: Tanto tempo fa. English: A…

2 最少
saving time

When Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona broke world records last year (selling for a cool $17.75 million), you could chalk it up to star power. He’s a Hollywood legend (and a men’s-wear icon to boot). But even vintage watches without that pedigree can make a serious dent in your savings: Some Rolex “Red” Submariners, for example, sell for up to $100,000. Here’s the thing about supply and demand, though: If you just look where the other guys aren’t, you’ll find plenty of handsome, historic timepieces without the inflated price tag. So we asked James Lamdin—founder of vintagewatch retailer Analog/Shift—to pick out six covetable tickers that start at under $5,000. Buy ’em up now before word gets out. 1. LONGINES WEEMS: $3,500+ Built for use in military and civilian aviation, this watch with a twisting…

4 最少
step up & step out

“A man has no secrets from his tailor. You stand in front of that mirror and you might as well be naked,” Domenico Dolce says. He would know: He grew up in a tailor’s shop—his father’s, on the outskirts of Palermo, in Sicily. “It’s a very delicate process, very intimate,” he goes on. “You’re that vulnerable.” “Absolutely,” interjects Stefano Gabbana, the other half of one of Italy’s best-known fashion houses. “No other professional scrutinizes you the way your tailor does.” Dolce: “Well, maybe your dentist.” Gabbana: “Okay, but going to the tailor is more fun.” Dolce: “Not to mention cheaper.” The two of them start laughing. They’ve got their patter down to a science. And why shouldn’t they? Dolce and Gabbana have been business and creative partners for more than three decades, from the design…

1 最少
prepare for takeoff

If your exposure to aviators begins and ends with Top Gun, allow us to expand your frame of reference. The sunglasses you see on this page and the next are a more elevated aviator, courtesy of the French watch-and-jewelry wizards at Cartier (who would prefer that you call them “pilot’s glasses,” thank you very much). They’re inspired by turn-of-the-century Brazilian aeronaut Alberto Santos-Dumont, a sort of subtropical Wright brother who made his name driving innovation in both dirigibles and airplanes. Translate that history into style cues and you get the classic aviator lens shape (a teardrop), mechanical features like functioning screws and treated metallic finishes, and in some models, an old-school leather envelope across the bridge (also called a sweatband) made to keep a pilot’s eyes clear in flight. All…

7 最少
the temple on place vendôme

The reasons to love Charvet are like the bolts of fabric inside its Paris atelier—too many to number, and each of them unique and unforgettable. My list of loves begins—as all things Charvet must begin—with Anne-Marie Colban, the co-owner. Spend an afternoon with her on the library-quiet third floor of Charvet, looking over those bolts of fabric, and you realize that you have not simply selected material for your shirts; you have also, in your casual conversation with her, been given the gift of a lovely little master class in What Truly Matters in Life. She’s a fairy godmother of taste and sophistication and charm. But most of all, she’s a keeper (and sharer) of truth and beauty. Mademoiselle Colban is a petite, dark-eyed woman who has a gleam in her eye…

2 最少
the hook

One way to make millennial pink a lot less precious? Slap it on a badass biker jacket. You don’t have to starve to look like a starving artist. Shoes so trad they’re cool again. A lifesaver for city slickers. Go bananas for something different. Never skimp on the hardware. Part hiking boot, part sneaker, Moncler’s new kicks walk the razor’s edge between form and function. You can tell a great designer by the depth of his references. Alessandro Michele picked this one up from the 11th Duke of Devonshire. (Google it.) Suede loosens up the poshest of shoes. Embrace the rumple with a low-key, lightweight blazer. A staple to swear by. There’s more to bags than brown and black. The more beat-up the better. Like bold prints? Start with your trunks. Pockets: man’s other best friend. Because everyone looks good in tortoiseshell. Side-tab trousers with a…