Whisky Advocate Spring 2018

Whisky makers, and whisky drinkers, have a special reverence for tradition. The techniques and practices that result in the finest whiskies are often hard-won, honed over centuries and generations. But consider that every aspect of whisky production that is now a long-held tradition was at one moment a fresh, new idea. As much as we might romanticize our favorite spirit, whisky has never been immune to change. In this issue, senior whisky specialist Susannah Skiver Barton investigates technology companies that aim to circumvent the long aging times normally required to mature whisky in barrels, attempting to accomplish in days what might otherwise take years. While these high-tech rapid maturation techniques are still in a state of relative infancy, they are directly targeting one of the most sacrosanct pillars of whisky. This…

WHISKY TRAVELERS Dear Whisky Advocate, This past summer, I thumbed across your new magazine (summer 2017 edition) and was quickly entrenched. I poured a lowball of Michter’s and read. The enlightening articles, helpful advertisements, and intentionality of the magazine caught my attention. But page sixteen’s Sippin’ in the City by the Bay got my mind spinning and spontaneity flowing. A day or two later, I introduced this trip idea to my two best bros, who I enjoy sipping whisky with. Within another small time span we had our flights, hotel, reservations, and itinerary set. We flew out on a Sunday and we were tasting whiskeys from Seven Stills by 5:00pm! … Thank you for helping my buddies and I create incredible memories and for getting us better acquainted with the world of whisky. Sincerely, Chad Merrihew…

Over the past decade, Austin, Texas has transformed from sleepy slackerville to one of the fastest-growing cities in North America. With the help of some big-name tech companies and the increasing popularity of the annual South by Southwest festival held each March, Austin has blossomed into a bustling metropolis of nearly one million. Although some stalwarts still cling to the city’s self-appointed moniker of “Live Music Capital of the World,” Austin has taken on new bragging rights, namely for its impressive (and seemingly ubiquitous) craft spirits scene, with whiskey at the forefront. Day One Everything’s bigger in Texas, except public transportation, so you’ll need to rent a vehicle or rely on ridesharing apps to get around. Although lodging options are virtually endless, a stay at the mid-century modern Hotel Van Zandt will…

It seems like alchemy: clear whisky goes in; liquid beauty pours out. All from oak staves held together by six metal hoops. No nails, glue, or fasteners needed. The oak barrel is serious old-school technology. “The shape is created by a double arc, which continues to be one of the strongest building principles of modern engineering,” says Teri Smith of Independent Stave Company. “It’s relatively unchanged since the first barrels were crafted millennia ago.” Although many whisky entrepreneurs would like to circumvent the expensive and labor-intensive barrel, it remains unrivaled for making fine whisky. Here’s a closer look at the magical wooden barrel. 60-80 years Time for a white oak tree to grow barrel-worthy (some cooperages prefer even older trees; French oaks can be 200 years old when harvested). 6 months–4 years Time to…

Remember a time when devotees of the Manhattan had few options when it came to choosing a vermouth to stir with their whiskey? An era when Martinis were mixed so dry that it mattered little what was misted on top? Vermouth, a wine fortified with distilled spirits, was once a sleepy mixer gathering dust on the shelf. Thanks to the rebirth of cocktail culture, those days are over. Born in the Piedmont region of northwest Italy in the 16th century or even earlier, vermouth was originally used to make medicinal herbs more palatable. Production spread to neighboring French and Swiss regions and became a cottage industry in all three countries. By the 18th century, vermouth moved beyond its medicinal roots and was commonly enjoyed as an appetite enhancer. America discovered the…

Atsby Amberthorn 16%, $40 This New York State vermouth is made from a simple formula based on Chinese anise, French lavender, apple brandy, and honey. DRINK IT In a Wet Martini (one part gin, one part Amberthorn). Carpano Antica Formula 16.5%, $32 Introduced in 1786, Carpano was Italy’s first commercial vermouth. The rebirth of the Antica Formula (old recipe) revives its complex mix of vanilla and cocoa. Its sister, Punt e Mes ($22), is a bittersweet dance of oranges, flowers, and cinnamon. DRINK IT In a classic Manhattan (two parts rye, one part vermouth). Cinzano 1757 Rosso 16.5%, $20 This Italian small-batch vermouth is a limited and numbered bottling. Although fruity and red, it has a welcome bitterness considering its coloration. DRINK IT In a Bourbon Manhattan to balance the sweetness. Dolin Rouge 16%, $15 Dolin, the last of the great producers from Chambery,…