EXPLOREMY LIBRARY
Art & Architecture
Wallpaper

Wallpaper March 2020

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United Kingdom
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English
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12 Issues

in this issue

2 min.
contributors

ROBERT LONGO Artist A leading protagonist of the Pictures Generation, Longo is best known for his Men in the Cities charcoal-and-graphite drawings of sharply attired men and women in flailing motion. They came to typify the 1980s and continue to be a staple of fashion stylists’ mood boards. His evocatively named ‘blood and guts’ pasta features in our artist recipe series (page 202) and he is currently preparing for exhibitions at Guild Hall, East Hampton, and Jeffrey Deitch Gallery, LA. HARRIET QUICK Writer Quick penned our story on three iconic fashion brands that have stood the test of time (page 082). ‘I was struck by the shared resilience, tenacity and adaptability that have contributed to the longevity and success of these brands,’ she says. Mostly based in London (though ‘imaginatively’, she is ‘in many places…

3 min.
the long game

Welcome to our biannual Style Special, which focuses on the S/S20 fashion collections, and celebrates fresh talent and standout looks that have sparked our imagination this season. To kick things off, we’re turning the spotlight on three perennial favourites: Margaret Howell, Sportmax and Paul Smith. In a world of passing fads, hype and hysteria, it’s important to recognise these admirable brands, which, each in their own way, have subtly redefined fashion, championed design, and are now proudly celebrating their 50-year anniversaries. It’s hard to imagine a world without these brands – the people behind them have been pioneers for five decades and have built their own businesses by actually being in the shops, building relationships with their customers. They are endlessly curious, intelligent and insist they are fashion with a small…

1 min.
fake news

Exotic mock-croc ensembles looked snappy on the spring catwalks as brands – from Rejina Pyo to Sies Marjan, Bottega Veneta to Nanushka – scaled new heights with pieces made from seductive skin-free fabrics. ‘The material gets worked manually with a knife, giving an extremely realistic effect,’ says accessories aficionado Giuseppe Zanotti of the crocodile skin-like pieces in his S/S20 designs. ‘It brings a reimagined take to my signature elegance.’ Other techniques currently being used by fashion brands for ethically conscious, elegant embellishments include embossing leather or printing scales on silk. These mules, coats and bags will be slithering onto your must-have list this season.…

1 min.
lines of descent

Referencing artists Bridget Riley and Daniel Buren as inspiration, Charles Sébline’s eponymous shirt brand features an eye-catching line-up of styles in a smorgasbord of stripes. ‘I should probably be psychoanalysed for my stripe obsession,’ he laughs. ‘I’m addicted!’ The Anglo-French designer founded his label in 2019 and is strongly infuenced by his heritage. ‘My first job was in Yves Saint Laurent’s haute couture atelier in the late 1990s,’ he says. ‘French craft inspired me to look at a button collar and work out a new way to present it.’ Meanwhile, London-born couturier Bunny Roger, who established his dressmaking business in 1937 and worked for Hardy Amies, inspired Sébline’s Breton-stripe bib shirt. ‘He was a friend of my grandmother and an extraordinary dandy,’ says Sébline. ‘I like playing with ease and…

1 min.
strike a cord

Spotted casting a mysterious glow at Dutch Design Week last October, the ‘Spun Prism’ light made its debut as part of Hybrid Times, the inaugural exhibition of Dutch gallery and creative platform Form Editions. Part of a series exploring the potential of thread, a barely visible material, to produce volumes of light, it was designed by Umut Yamac, a British architect and designer with Turkish heritage. Offering a three-dimensional tapestry of light, colour and volume, these works, which also include ‘Spun Beam’ and ‘Spun Halo’, explore how cord can form dynamic volumes through tension. Made from mercerised cotton and copper, the handwoven cords of ‘Spun Prism’ are held tight by the weight of the linear elements, which in turn generate the form of three nesting prisms suspended mid-air. Varying in…

1 min.
full circle

This month, we celebrate the mighty pomelo. Originally from Southeast Asia, it’s the largest fruit of the citrus family. For a deliciously fresh spring salad, our entertaining director Melina Keays combined it with prawns and peanuts and, to follow, she conjured up a red grapefuit cheesecake, a delightful mouthful of tart, juicy bitterness contrasting with the creaminess of the cheesecake. We served this citrus feast on Maarten Baas’ latest effort for Valerie Objects. Their first collaboration produced a charmingly wonky pepper mill. Now the Dutch designer has added his signature playful touch to a tableware and glassware collection for the brand. ‘Inner Circle’ is based on hand-drawn circles, whose irregular, organic shapes offer multiple compositional opportunities. ‘It’s just like in nature,’ says Baas. ‘Organic forms are randomly thrown together and…