Travel & Outdoor

Wanderlust September 2019

Sri Lanka: Trip Planner Big wildlife encounters. Historic rail journeys. Ancient culture. There’s a reason why this resilient island keeps winning gongs – here’s how to explore its wonders Reader Travel Awards Last year you ranged far and wide, thumbed many guidebooks, put a lot of gear to the test and generally proved yourself the most-travelled lot around. What you think really matters – so here are your top picks: definitively the best of the best Mongolia Head to the Altai Mountains of West Mongolia for natural splendour, nomadic hospitality and swirling, luminous skies Finland Think Lapland hosts the best of Finland? Think again. We head to Europe’s largest lake district in search of its wilder side, from sleeping among reindeer to bedding down with bears... Morocco Morocco may be known for its souks and sand dunes, but beyond its exotic interior, there’s over 1,200km of Atlantic coastline and a melting pot of cultures to explore Dispatches: Antonia Bolingbroke-Kent On a journey to Nagaland on the Indo-Myanmar border, the British travel writer encounters a local tribe and learns all about the centuries-old tradition of headhunting Plus… a short break in Aarhus, Denmark; Travel Icon: Amiens Cathedral, France; Romanian cuisine; Head to head: Uzbekistan vs Kyrgyzstan; Go now: Scottish Highlands; Dream sleep in Caiman Ecological Refuge, Pantanal – and lots, lots more… WIN… …A Norwegian sailing safari beneath the northern lights worth £4,300 …A cruise to Antarctica worth over £15,000 …A two-night cycling break for two in Carmarthenshire

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10 Issues

In this issue

1 min.

Trains, you’ve got to love them. No, not packed commuter trains, but the civilised ones which give you a true slow travel experience, letting you absorb your surroundings and wonder at the little vignettes of life you pass. Read our European rail journeys round-up on page 60 and I defy you not to be inspired to go jump on one of them as soon as possible. We experience slow travel too in the timeless Isles of Scilly (p96), take a walk on the wild (dog) side in Zimbabwe (p46) and hike the remote villages and lakes of Guatemala (p80). Don’t forget to enter our Travel Photo of the Year competition (p122) – you could win an amazing trip to Texas. And talking of awards, Wanderlust has just picked up yet another trophy…

2 min.

Sue Watt Zimbabwe feature Wildlife conservation has always fascinated travel writer Sue. In this issue, she fulfilled a 16-year-long dream – spying the bold and beautiful painted wolves of Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools NP (p46). My first great rail trip: “Zimbabwe’s Stimela Star, a restored vintage train running overnight from Victoria Falls to Hwange NP. It’s not luxury, but it’s fun, with bags of character. It’s a brilliant way to start a safari.” Nicholas Dyer Zimbabwe feature Wildlife photographer Nick’s address is often ‘A Tent Somewhere in Africa’ – but his passion lies in capturing the character of Mana Pools NP’s painted wolves (p46). My first great rail trip: “The Lunatic Express – a nocturnal adventure from Nairobi to Mombasa in run-down luxury. It ends as the languid locomotive greets the African dawn, while antelope look on with ambiguous interest.” Alastair…

1 min.
the wanderlust philosophy

Wanderlust aims to inform and inspire all your travel adventures. We strive to bring you the most trusted and reliable information in the world. That’s why we are always upfront about whether our writers have travelled independently or with a tour company. When a tour operator has been used, we always try to use those who’ve scored a minimum satisfaction rating of 85% from readers in our annual awards and we never guarantee positive coverage. Responsible, conscious and sustainable travel is at the heart of everything we do. Website Discover more great content at www.wanderlust.co.uk Twitter Catch up on the latest travel gossip @wanderlustmag Instagram See behind the scenes @wanderlustmag Facebook Join the chat at www.facebook.com/wanderlusttravel magazine Newsletter Sign up to our newsletter for offers, inspiration and all the latest travel news at www.wanderlust.co.uk Subscribe Take advantage of our latest online offer on…

1 min.

In memory of Co-founder & Publisher Paul Morrison EDITORIAL CONTENT Editor-in-Chief & Co-founder Lyn Hughes Technology Director Simon Chubb Managing Editor Tom Hawker Assistant Editor Zara Gaspar Sub-Editor/Writer Gareth Clark (Goodbye, good luck!) Commercial Editor Olivia Lee Digital Editor Elizabeth Atkin Editorial Assistant Kirtey Verma Associate Web Editor Peter Moore Assistant Content Editor Rosie Fitzgerald Digital Executive Nora Wallaya Contributing Editors Phoebe Smith, Mark Carwardine, Paul Goldstein & William Gray DESIGN Art Director Graham Berridge Art Editor Mike Wright PRODUCTION Production Director Justin Masters Production Manager Paul Lincoln ADVERTISING Commercial Manager Adam Lloyds (adam.lloyds@wanderlust.co.uk) Media Specialist Simon Bryson Media Specialist Anthony Bennett Senior Sales Executive Lucy Bairstow South East Europe Representative Genc Rodiqi (gencrodiqi@dioklecian.com) PUBLISHING Managing Director Tilly McAuliffe Commercial Director Ian McAuliffe Director Wanderlust Studio John Innes Publishing Director Catriona Bolger Senior Brand Marketing Executive Fanny Moros ACCOUNTS & ADMIN Finance Director Nicola Solomon Assistant Financial Controller Lisa Healy Accounts Assistant Kym Williams Office Manager Janine Plunkett (maternity) ASSISTED THIS ISSUE Dean Agius, Lorna Cowan, Nick Funnell,…

1 min.

Walk in the park Canyonlands National Park, Utah, USA Photographer: Michele Falzone Sheer sandstone cliffs and burnt-orange terrain light up the Island in the Sky district of Canyonlands NP, but it’s the trek to the top of its Mesa Arch at sunrise that is truly unforgettable. Arrive just before dawn, then wait for the first few rays to strike the underside of the arch for a spectacle that will live long in the memory. © Michele Falzone/AWL Images “Wilderness is not a place of isolation but contemplation. Refuge.”Terry Tempest Williams, author and activist Getting a leg up Inle Lake, Burma (Myanmar) Photographer: Alex Treadway Reed beds and floating plants make for tricky navigation, but Burmese fishermen have the perfect solution to sculling the waters of Inle Lake. Paddling past stilted houses and water gardens on slender teak canoes, they…

3 min.
your letters

Star letter A welcome discovery On one of my first visits to Vancouver, British Columbia, in 2017, a colleague suggested I join her in climbing Grouse Mountain (1,250m). She’d never done it but assured me it “couldn’t be that hard”. So, off we went, unprepared, and found it really did live up to its reputation as ‘Mother Nature’s Stairmaster’. We struggled up – jet-lagged – in the wrong kind of footwear and without enough water, and I promised myself I’d never endure that again. Two years later, I did do it again and even shaved 20 minutes off my time. The views and activities at the top are worth every second, and you don’t have to be an avid hiker to do it. I’m living proof, and you won’t regret it –…