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Australian Stitches

No 29-1

Australia’s leading dressmaking magazine is a favoured by all dressmakers in every age group. Fabulous garments, technical instructions and step x step photos help guide even the most novice sewer to complete perfect garments every time. All the latest patterns and fabrics are covered in every issue plus we trial patterns to give the lowdown on how to improve on each pattern’s instruction sheet. We showcase makeovers of real people, give wardrobe-planning advice and show the latest trends from the USA and Europe.

Sunray Publications Pty Ltd
R 76,79
R 230,37
3 Issues

in this issue

2 min
bias circular skirts

Fashion Patterns 1501 Bias Circular Skirt is a specially draped skirt that keeps the hemline parallel to the floor and does not require a seam at the centre front. The draping methods used to create this bias circular skirt pattern were originally developed by Madeleine Vionnet and her unique draping skills of bias garments. This special draping method made the amount of fullness, desired at the hem, radiate from nothing at the waistline. The shape of the waistline is controlled by the amount of fullness, making the front and back waistline shapes different. The back will be deeper and more rounded, because the back waist distance is 2.5cm (1in) smaller than the front waist distance. The placement of the straight and cross grains plays a particular importance and unique role in the…

4 min
spring clean your wardrobe celebrate your age!

Refresh those proportions Wearing the same thing in exactly the same way, year after year isn't only dispiriting, it's also self-sabotaging. Every wardrobe needs a good ‘spring clean’, now and then, to get out of that rut … and by that, we mean freshening it up with the best ideas of the season that look great on any age. HOW you wear things is just as important as what you wear when it comes to modernising your look, and right now, it may be as simple as flashing a bit of ankle … if you haven’t sewn a slim-ish cropped pant by now, this is definitely the time to do so, as a little nude skin down there looks remarkably youthful. With a good heeled sandal, they'll make this type of pant…

2 min
why do we need to include staystitching and understitching in garment construction?

STAYSTITCHING is used to prevent outer seams (curves) stretching during construction and fitting. It is a very important technique and should not be omitted from the construction process. Done on a single layer of fabric, the stitching line should be made with small stitches (1.5-2.0) and lie within the seam allowance and no further than 3mm ( 1/8in) from the stitching line. The stitches are positioned close to the seam line for maximum control of the seam. Tip: Position the fabric to cater for the 15mm ( 5/8in) seam allowance and move the needle one to two positions to your right so that the stitching sits very close to the seam line but not on it. Staystitching needs to be done directionally with the grain of the curve or from the widest to…

1 min
peaches & cream with a touch of liøuorice!

The new nudes, peach tones, cafe au lait, ivory colours and liquorice coloured laces strutted their way down the SPRING 2015 international runways. Chloe, Oscar de la Renta and Roberto Cavalli raised the bar with exquisite fabrics made up into very feminine designs. Perfect for very special occasions from Mother of the Bride outfits, the bride, bridesmaids and perhaps for that ball or that dinner when you want to look spectacular! And, as home sewers, the world’s your oyster! Imagine a beautiful full sleeved blouse teamed back to a silk satin skirt – or a lace tunic top teamed with slim line or patio-style pants! And, then you make your very own designer look! Our Martin & Savage couture range of fabrics include embroidered spots, ›owers and abstracts on a variety of mesh…

4 min
the lace transformer!

In the coming seasons we will see the trend of full lace garments and the adding lace to edges, hems, collars and panels to many different garment styles. Here, Martyn takes a cotton-blend printed cardigan and shows you how easy it is to renovate and rejuvenate it for an updated look. The cardigan fabric is soft and pliable, so careful handling of any cut edges will be necessary as it will stretch out of shape within a blink of an eye! See photo 1. Choosing the right lace for a project is often the hardest part especially when having a particular project in mind. The lace I'm seeing is heavier and wider than lingerie lace and made from a combination of cotton, viscose and nylon – Guipure in look and nature. On my past…

6 min
construction elements — pleats and tucks

Pleats or tucks? What is the difference? Generally, tucks are sewn closed and the major portion of pleats left open. However, to achieve different effects, they can both be partially sewn and then released. The depth of fabric in a tuck is usually much smaller than that in a pleat. Tucks are most often found on blouses, shirts and bodices at the shoulder or waist. Pleats are more commonly found in skirts and trousers. The Anatomy of a Pleat or Tuck See diagram 1. To better understand how a pleat or tuck is formed, it is useful to understand the various parts involved. The explanation which follows is an extract from Linen and Cotton – Classic Sewing Techniques for Great Results by Susan Khalje. Available from www.tauntonstore.com/ linen-andcotton-khalje-ebook-077752.html as a PDF ebook. The parts of a…