Bon Appetit

Q: One of the best things about this job is getting alerts that there is food—mains, desserts, dips, you name it—in the test kitchen. One standout this month was Pork Shoulder Inasal from chef Silver Iocovozzi, part of our story on Appalachia (page 76). I was so excited to taste the food from the piece, and this dish didn’t disappoint. It has a crunchy, spice-forward crust that I learned is made of toasted black rice with fried onions and garlic. I wasn’t familiar with the technique of coating a protein with toasted rice, but boy did it add both texture and flavor. Can you tell me more about this treatment? Food director Chris Morocco says: The crunchy crust on that pork shoulder is like nothing I’ve ever eaten. Iocovozzi’s technique of…

OStudio, a hub of artists’ studios in Brooklyn, hosts a guest chef pop-up series. While waiting for the food one night (Rita Jammet of La Caravelle Champagne had designed the Lebanese-and-Iraqi-inspired menu), my attention kept wandering toward the shelves. They were lined with the ceramics that owner Fernando Aciar creates when not making pastry. I had a hard time choosing among the small amorphous bowls, the large bowls with beautiful orbs of color, and the mugs with exaggerated handles. I caved and got all three. fefostudio.com PHOTOGRAPHS: ISA ZAPATA (PORK); ALEX HUANG (BOWLS). FOOD STYLING BY TANEKA MORRIS (PORK). PROP STYLING BY DAYNA SEMAN (PORK).…

LETTUCE 101 For many, a bowl of lettuce is the vegetable on the table most nights of the week. In terms of American consumption per capita, Lactuca sativa, the scientific classification for these mild, leafy greens, is out-eaten only by potatoes and tomatoes. (Fries and ketchup are a hard pair to beat.) Part of the appeal of lettuce is that it doesn’t have to be cooked—it makes for a side that practically prepares itself. But just because a simple green salad can come together in no time doesn’t mean it has to taste like it. With a little bit of care, it can be the part of the meal that has everyone going back for seconds. And it all starts with sourcing, storing, and setting that lettuce up for success. GET A…

San Diego, like any border city, is made up of many diverse culinary cultures. It’s a colorful city, with a delicious and everevolving food landscape and a tapestry of many cuisines and influences. As a first-gen Mexican American who grew up in the city, I’ve experienced the magic of this big city, which can feel very small at times. From the San Ysidro border all the way to North County, you can find outstanding Mexican, Filipino, and Vietnamese cuisine—and more. It’s easy to see these varied cultural influences, as well as Mother Nature’s bounty, reflected throughout our restaurants; since we happen to have some of the best produce and seafood in the world, people from across California and around the world tend to congregate here for a taste of what…

BROWN BUTTER–CHOCOLATE SOUFFLÉ 6–8 SERVINGS Mastering the art of soufflé-making is easier than you might think so long as you follow these three rules: Never overwhip the egg whites (look for the consistency of softly whipped cream); always use a very hot oven; and remember to keep calm. Even for professionals there comes a moment when doubts seem to rise faster than the soufflé itself. But maintain your cool and it all usually works out just fine. Ideal for Passover, this gluten-and flour-free version gets layers of flavor from nutty brown butter. Serve straight from the oven for maximum impact—and minimal deflation. ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter¼ cup (56 g) plus ⅓ cup (75 g) superfine sugar, plus more for sprinkling3.5 oz. bittersweet chocolate (70% cacao), chopped½ cup heavy cream, plus more…

Culinarily speaking, I think this is the most perplexing time of the year. With the changing of the seasons comes the gradual arrival of spring produce at the farmers market, filling my head with visions of big salads and extravagant crudités platters. But in the northeast, it often still feels squarely like winter outside, and what I actually want is a steaming bowl of something soothing. Enter these recipes developed specially for that transitional blustery time before the weather starts to turn. An herby toast with savory mushroom broth, a verdant pot of soba noodles, or a platter of warmly dressed radicchio and chicken might be just the ticket for a meal that boasts the bounty of the season with a hearty dash of coziness to boot. WARM CHICKEN PICCATA SALAD Salad-ify…