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Lonely Planet September 2019

Feed your love of travel with award-winning Lonely Planet. Inside you'll find topical ideas for easy inspirational weekend breaks and more adventurous experiences to try out, helped by the insider knowledge of Lonely Planet's many experts around the world. You'll be taken on a journey through words and beautiful photography, with highly atmospheric features transporting you to spectacular landscapes and allowing local people to reveal their culture, history ,food, drink and the natural wonders that surround them.

Country:
United Kingdom
Language:
English
Publisher:
BBC Worldwide Limited
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12 Issues

IN THIS ISSUE

1 min.
editor’s note

Dark clouds rolled in and warm blobs of rain were soon smacking against my face. On the shores of Lake Vembanad in Kerala, southern India, this was a joyous time. The coming of the monsoon signalled the arrival of great bounty for the people and wildlife of this tropical backwater. In the years since, I’ve tried to shed my British instinct to recoil from even the thought of rain, and open my mind to travelling at moments that don’t follow perceived wisdom. Embracing the off-season (p60) is among the themes in our Travel Goals coverage in this issue, a selection intended to deliver variety and quite a few surprises. We’ve been guided by the diverse backgrounds of our writers: such as Omo Osagiede, who challenges his own identity when mistaken…

1 min.
alpine fresh

Slovenia is the Alpine country that often gets forgotten in the counting, except of course by Slovenians, whose flag bears the triple-headed peak of Triglav. When the country’s short stretch of Adriatic coast gets busy in summer, there’s lots of space to cool off in the mountains of Triglav National Park. Clear waters are a point of pride here, and immersive experiences come in varied forms. In summer, a dip in Lake Bohinj is a balmy 22˚C, while the Soča river calls for rafting and canyoning. Even a splash-free experience such as a walk up the Tolmin Gorges (pictured), will leave you feeling somehow cleaner. slovenia.info…

1 min.
chew chew

The Gare de Lyon is the traditional starting point for Parisians looking to journey to Italy by train but, across the Seine, another piece of railway heritage now serves as an outpost of Italian tastes in the French capital. La Felicità is a venue for food, drinks and music within a former rail depot in the once-overlooked 13th arrondissement, southeast of the Latin Quarter. Train carriages painted with street art are a backdrop for dining on Tuscan barbecued porchetta or Neapolitan pizzas dappled with fior di latte mozzarella. Between the three bars on site, you can clink negronis, or try an original cocktail, and there’s also a South Tyrolean-style Biergarten. Is this really Paris, or is it Parigi? lafelicita.fr…

3 min.
fife arms, braemar

What’s the story? Built as a hunting lodge in the 1850s when Queen Victoria’s interest in the area, and purchase of Balmoral nine miles down the road, brought the great and the good to the Cairngorms, Fife Arms has quite the pedigree. Its more recent history was less illustrious (it served as a stop-off for coach tours) until Swiss art dealers Iwan and Manuela Wirth bought the property and embarked on a three-year renovation project. The hotel reopened its doors earlier this year (thefifearms.com). What did they do? ‘What didn’t they do?’ is a better question. The couple brought in teams of star architects and designers to transform the hotel, taking it back to its former glory, and way beyond. The style is one of playful Scottish Victoriana: sumptuous, dark, tassled and intriguing,…

1 min.
on the doorstep

Braemar is a handsome town, with plenty to distract on a casual amble – a centre for Highland games, a sporran shop and a horn emporium among them. Beyond the town limits, walking trails lead up into the hills, with the chance to see red squirrels and deer if you’re lucky. The hotel has its own ghillie and an in-house forager who can arrange nature tours, picnics and workshops. Simon Blackett, the former manager of the Invercauld Estate that surrounds Braemar, now leads hugely entertaining and informative Land Rover tours of the area, tailored to your interests and time. He picks up from the hotel (£250 per group for four hours; yellowwellytours.com).…

1 min.
berlin afloat

Berliners like to make the most of sunny days – just ask the bathers at the Badeschiff (pictured). But while this ‘ship’ is moored in one spot in the Spree, a Wasserkutsche trip invites all sorts of possibilities. These locally built houseboats are boxy models of space-maximising design, somehow sleeping four people and fitting in a kitchenette on a six-metre-by-two craft (there’s also the roof deck for extra lounging space). Though the city centre is off-limits, pretty much everywhere else goes, and newbie captains get route suggestions of anything from a few hours on city canals to multi-day trips out to lakes in the forests that fringe Berlin. A day’s hire starts at £215 in low season, and the daily rate gets lower the longer you book for. wasserkutsche.com…