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SHOWDETAILS PARIS+LONDONSHOWDETAILS PARIS+LONDON

SHOWDETAILS PARIS+LONDON

Fall - Winter 2019

Showdetails is the leader magazine that zooms in on the runway, providing the very first look at the details that ‘make difference’ in the women’s and men’s clothing and accessories collections. Lines, materials, fabrics, prints, accessories, lace, embroidery, passementerie, cuts buttons, zips, appliqués and every details from the looks fresh off the runway – seen up close with the best quality available on the market!!!.

Country:
United States
Language:
English
Publisher:
SHOWDETAILS SRL
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2 Issues

IN THIS ISSUE

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women collections a/w 2019.20

The bourgeoisie, the class that has always been synonymous with social conventions and traditions, stamped its authority on the Paris runways, somewhat unsurprisingly. The explanation for this desire for normality and security could lie in the current atmosphere in France, which has seen riots on the streets of the capital similar to the days of ’68, with the not very idealistic but very pragmatic gilets jaunes demanding more social justice. A reaction to the chaos, a sort of restoration of that minimal, no frills fashion, an expression of cleanness, rigour, seriousness, juxtaposed against all the streetwear and sportswear on show. And yet, even the most tranquil bourgeois home conceals the seeds of rebellion. Indeed, the very existence of certain rules and standards is perhaps made to be broken, especially by…

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new bourgeoisie

The codes of the Parisian bourgeoisie seen through young, modern eyes with a dash of the ’70s and ’80s, when Celine, whose accent Hedi Slimane has removed, was enjoying its heyday with its signature elegant yet frillsfree wardrobe. As seen in some of the brand’s Seventies posters, the show included camel capes and coats, trenches, blazers and masculine suits worn with high-necked or crew neck sweaters, shirts and pussy bow blouses, teamed with micro-check culottes or pleated skirts and highheel leather boots. The alternative of skinny jeans and shearling fur coats made this pretty yet strong-willed femininity even more contemporary. Giambattista Valli’s girl is a high society young lady by default. Perhaps because of this, the designer accentuated her rebellious side, drawing inspiration from Saint Laurent muse Betty Catroux and her…

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multi-tailoring

While masculine suits and blazers are now as much a part of the women’s wardrobe as the little black dress, all designers are enjoying the creative freedom of interpreting them based on personal taste and the brand they represent. Demna Gvasalia continued his work of tailoring perfection on the Balenciaga silhouette, adding further shape to jackets and coats by keeping a robust structure while adding the rounded shoulders seen on many runways. In general, the volumes were oversize on top, with big collars and sleeves making the outerwear resemble protective cocoons. The tailoring of Dries Van Noten was plain and structured but tended to soften as the show went on, leaving room for increasingly vivid and allover floral decorations, although the designer was quick to point out these were decadent, imperfect…

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layers

Who knows why layering always makes us think of nomadic, constantly travelling women. The new collection from Joseph Altuzarra had a strong travel vibe. Inspired by his recent trip to Marrakech, the looks were packed with exotic references and layering. Shearling of various lengths was styled over layers of knits with added scarves wound around the bust like a sash. Multi-buckle boots rose up to the thigh almost like trousers, adding another layer. The Chloé girl also had an exotic touch, which chimed nicely with her passion for layering a turtleneck under a knit under a jacket, or a blazer over a fluid blouse over trousers tucked into ankle boots, or asymmetric dresses over skirts and knit collars, knots and draping over draping to emphasise the layers. The Dior woman layered her…

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collezioni donna a/i 2019.20

La borghesia, quella classe che è da sempre sinonimo di convenzioni sociali e attaccamento alle tradizioni, instaura i propri codici sulle passerelle parigine, a sorpresa si direbbe, ma nemmeno tanto. Perché la spiegazione di questo desiderio di normalità e di sicurezze potrebbe forse venire dall’aria che tira oggi in Francia e che ha messo a ferro e fuoco le strade della capitale come ai tempi del ’68, con i gilets jaunes poco idealisti e tanto pragmatici a chiedere più giustizia sociale. Una reazione al caos, una sorta di restaurazione di quella moda minimale e no frills, espressione di pulizia, rigore, serietà, a sua volta contrapposta a tutto lo streetwear e lo sportswear dilaganti. Eppure. Eppure, anche nel più tranquillo nucleo borghese, cova il germe della ribellione, anzi, l’esistenza stessa di…

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nuova borghesia

I codici della borghesia parigina riletti in chiave giovane, moderna ma con un twist che oscilla tra gli anni ’70 e gli ’80, periodo in cui la Maison Celine, cui Hedi Slimane ha tolto l’accento, viveva ancora il suo periodo classico e godeva della propria essenzialità, con un guardaroba elegante, ma svelto, senza fronzoli. Come in certe réclame Seventies del marchio, ecco sfilare cappe e cappotti cammello, trench, blazer e completi maschili portati con maglioni a collo alto o girocollo, camicie e bluse con pussy bow, a loro volta abbinati a gonne-pantalone o gonne a pieghe micro-check e stivali alti in pelle. L’alternativa dei jeans skinny e delle pellicce di shearling rende più contemporanea questa femminilità leziosa e insieme volitiva. La ragazza di Giambattista Valli è di default una signorina della…

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