Wine Enthusiast Magazine June/July 2021

wine enthusiast

Adam M. Strum PUBLISHER Susan Kostrzewa EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jacqueline Strum ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Layla Schlack SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Daniels TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams TASTING COORDINATORS Craig Chamberlain, William Johnson DIGITAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Emily Saladino SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR Dylan Garret DIGITAL EDITOR Kristen Richard ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR J’nai Gaither SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Marco Bruno DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Virginie Boone, Mike DeSimone, Jim Gordon, Paul Gregutt, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Jeff Jenssen, Matt Kettmann, Christina Pickard, Michael Schachner, Sean P. Sullivan SPIRITS Kara Newman BEER John Holl FOOD Nils Bernstein TRAVEL Lauren Mowery CALIFORNIA Virginie Boone vboone@wineenthusiast.net; Jim Gordon jgordon@wineenthusiast.net; Matt Kettmann mkettmann@wineenthusiast.net EUROPE Roger Voss rvoss@wineenthusiast.net ITALY Kerin O’Keefe…

in this issue: leading the way

The land of ingenuity and imagination, California has also become a standard of resilience. Though the last 12-plus months have been difficult around the globe, the state has weathered more setbacks than many—including a record number of devastating wildfires—that have added to the formidable challenges of the novel coronavirus pandemic itself. Yet despite it all, California—and its wine industry—prevails. As tasting rooms reopen and wine regions across the state amp up to an altered but energetic hum, we’re reminded of why the world-class wines made here, and the inspiring regions and people who produce them, remain so popular among new and established vinophiles. Our celebration of the Golden State includes Contributing Editor Virginie Boone’s focus on the bounty of emerging Napa reds that extend beyond Cabernet Sauvignon (page 56). From Petite Sirah…

winemag.com: beer and wine? in california, it's all natural

Vinnie Cilurzo’s Sonoma barrel room is meticulously organized. The Russian River Brewing Company brewmaster keeps the 6,000-square-foot space at exactly 58˚F, and the neatly arranged wooden barrels are stacked five high. “Many wineries remark that I have more barrels than them,” says Cilurzo. He should know. In 1978, his family opened Cilurzo Winery in Temecula, California. He worked both there and at Korbel Champagne Cellar before he turned to beer. But in the late 1990s, Cilurzo combined his background in wine with his passion for beer to release Russian River’s first beers aged in wine barrels. One beer, Temptation, was aged in Chardonnay barrels, while Supplication was housed in Pinot Noir barrels. With their fruity acidity balanced by smooth, woody notes, these beers became almost immediate collectors’ items. These beers are still brewed, aged…

off-road to el dorado

NATURAL CALIFORNIA In this issue, we check out the state’s shifting vinous landscape. But winemakers in El Dorado County make a point to check in with their surrounds regularly via a range of outdoor activities. Turn the page to learn where and how they test out the terrain. The granite peaks, volcanic slopes and snowmelt streams of California’s Sierra Nevada mountains have created high-quality conditions for grape growing throughout El Dorado County. These rugged features, some up to 10,000 feet above sea level, are doubly valued by local vintners who also enjoy a bit of adventure and dabble in recreational activities that range from kayaking and fly fishing to biking and horseback riding. Here are the sports they love most, and the spots they visit to test themselves against the terrain. HORSEBACK RIDING PEGGY…

rosy perspective

A small crop of American winemakers is brightening up fortified wines with summer-friendly pink bottlings. In doing so, these producers are putting their own twists on ancient traditions. Made by adding grape brandy to a still rosé during the fermentation process, these offerings typically fall somewhere between 17–20% alcohol by volume (abv). They shine when they’re served with cheeses as an aperitif or alongside dessert, and like their lower-proof rosé cousins, they are best enjoyed chilled. These three bottles are a great introduction to this blossoming style. BJÖRNSON RATAFIA ROSÉ Salem, Oregon The idea for this wine started in 2016, with the rare Oregon vintage that yielded a secondary crop. Winemakers Pattie and Mark Björnson used the bonus Pinot Noir grapes to make a pink-hued ratafia, a fortified wine commonly made in Champagne with extra…

an outpouring of support

During June, a variety of wine and beverage brands launch campaigns or products wrapped in rainbows to support LGBTQ+ Pride celebrations around the globe. But LGBTQ+ folks who work in wine carve out accepting spaces and open doors all year long. Read on to get to know three LGBTQ+ members of the wine community who help to create a more inclusive industry from different segments of the wine world. THERESA HEREDIA Winemaker, Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery A lesbian woman, Heredia has long offered support to programs within the LGBTQ+ community, both on her own and in conjunction with California’s Gary Farrell Vineyards & Winery. One of the most notable efforts has been their joint involvement with the Human Rights Campaign (HRC), one of America’s leading LGBTQ+ civil rights organizations. While the winery…