WOOD Magazine May 2018

Many well-respected woodworkers argue that your first woodworking machine should be a bandsaw, not a tablesaw. After all, a bandsaw can rip and crosscut stock, plus it can cut curvy shapes and resaw—tricky tasks on a tablesaw. My first bandsaw was a three-wheel job I bought at a farm auction. A newbie to both woodworking and auctions, I got it for a song because hardly anyone else was bidding on it. I felt like the king of the world when the auctioneer shouted “SOLD!” with my number. Anxious to try it out when I got home, I grabbed a scrap of 2×4, and threw the power switch to spin up the motor. But as soon as the blade touched the wood, it clattered off its wheels. (I naively assumed the old saw…

I was only a year-and-a-half old when my dad passed, so I never got to know him. Like his father, he worked for Stanley Tools in New Britain, Connecticut. Grandpa was an engineer; Dad was a model maker. Recently, I discovered an old engineering rule that Dad wrote his name on, a drafting triangle, and an erasure brush, undoubtedly used for his job. I also found some Boy Scout certificates earned by him, and a 48-star flag, most probably awarded by the Boy Scouts to drape his coffin. (Dad became very involved in the Boy Scouts after his medical deferment from service in WWII.) I thought I’d pass along pictures of the shadow boxes I made to display these long-lost memories. I hope they will inspire others to memorialize a loved one. —Harold…

Aseasoned woodworker walking into David Mitchell’s 16×24' detached shop will immediately notice something missing: a tablesaw. Instead, David’s workbench serves as the shop centerpiece. “I used to have a Delta 3-hp tablesaw but had to sell it during a business downturn. I find that not having a tablesaw forces me to be more creative in my woodworking.” A mitersaw, circular saw, and hand ripsaw handle many lumber-sizing chores. His workbench is a customized version of a Michael Dunbar design. To join the legs to the stretchers, David substituted pegged throughmortise- and-tenon joints for the specified nuts and bolts. Mortises in the benchtop accept tenons on the tops of the legs. None of the joints are glued, so he can break down the bench, if needed. He also added a leg vise,…

Q I’m preparing to build an outdoor furniture set, including chairs, tables, and other pieces. I’m torn between applying a film-forming finish, such as paint, opaque stain, or exterior varnish, or a penetrating-oil finish. What’s the best route? —Kevin Tundro, Humboldt, Tenn. A Before we get into the specifics of each type of product, Kevin, keep in mind a few general principles that govern the performance of outdoor finishes: Two inevitable ravages of nature—water and the UV rays in sunshine—damage wood and the finish protecting it. Once damaged, wood fibers separate from the underlying wood, taking the finish with them. Nothing blocks UV rays better than pigments. Dyes impart some color to the finish but do little to block UV rays. Film finishes, especially better-quality ones that flex after curing, best protect wood from moisture. When film…

Fan Door Clears Shop Air TOP SHOP TIP Here’s a simple way to rid you shop’s air of fine particulates— the kind that stay suspended and prove most damaging to your lungs. Build the fram using 2×4s. Mount three 20" box fans and a power strip then use the remaining frame space for storage cubbies. In nice weather, open the exterio door and use the fan door to exhaust particulates. Be sur to open another door or win dow to create a draf I have an outward-opening exterior door, so I simply attached the fan door to the existing door jamb with four heavy-duty hinges. Or, moun the fan door on sliding-door hardware, as shown. Anothe option: You could add outrig gers and casters to the fram and simply roll it up to…

1 CALIPER BODY EXPLODED VIEW Build the Calipers Head First 1 In a 1×41?2×7" blank for the calipers body (A), drill a 31?4" hole for the clock insert [Skill Builder below, Drawing 1]. Drill the 1?4" hole into the bottom edge. Cut the body to shape and chamfer both ends. 2 Following the patterns for the calipers (B, C, and D), cut and sand these parts to shape. 3 Place the filler (D) in the notch of the outer caliper, and mark and sand the chamfer [Photos A–C]. Repeat this process to lay out and shape the chamfers on the bottom of the outer and inner calipers [Exploded View]. 4 Cut and sand the adjuster knob (E) to shape. Cut a 3/4" dowel 3?4" long [Skill Builder, next page], drill a centered hole, and glue in…