Sommaire pour September 2019 de Decanter

Meet the experts JUDGES BY REGION Our experts travelled from all corners of the globe to judge the wines submitted to DWWA, with 36 Regional Chairs for each winemaking region selected to support the Chairman Emeritus and the three competition Co-Chairs. Read on to learn more about these experts, and to discover the names of the 237 judges who tasted and assessed the wines this year CHAIRMAN EMERITUS Steven Spurrier Decanter’s consultant editor joined the wine trade in London in 1964, later moving to Paris where he bought a wine shop in 1971 and opened France’s first private wine school, L’Academie du Vin, in 1973. Spurrier staged the historic 1976 Judgement of Paris tasting between wines from California and France. In the 1980s he wrote several wine books and created…

BALKANS Balkans won 0 Best in Show 4 Platinum (see p63) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze Bulgaria GOLD red • 95 Minkov Brothers, Cabernet Sauvignon, Thracian Valley, Thracian Lowland, Southern Region 2017 (13.7%) Rich, plummy style with plenty of ripe black fruit, hints of tar, liquorice and black pepper. Shows well integrated oak, plus ripe and rounded tannins. • 95 Orbelus, Melnik, Struma River Valley, South Western Region 2016 (14.7%) Floral aromas, with red and black fruits. Deep, rich and inky flavours of cassis plus hints of clove and vanilla from smartly used oak. • 95 Villa Yustina, Special Reserve, Thracian Valley, Thracian Lowland, Southern Region 2015 (14.5%) Very earthy, dark fruit, with hints of caramelised orange peel, balsamic notes and sweet oak…

BURGUNDY Burgundy won 4 Best in Show (see p34) 11 Platinum (see p64) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD sparkling white • 95 Louis Picamelot, Les Reipes Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut, Crémant de Bourgogne 2014 (12.5%) $9.12 Ansonia Wine, Grape Expectations Classic nutty brioche and crisp green apple aromas lead to an explosion of fine bubbles, a sumptuously creamy texture and a subtle toasty finish. GOLD sparkling rosé • 95 Henri Champliau, Rosé Brut, Crémant de Bourgogne NV (12.5%) £15-£20 Home Delivery Wine, KWM Wine, Robb Brothers Wine Merchants, The Vineyard Belfast Bursting with aromas of vibrant pink grapefruit and red berries. Complex palate of hibiscus, brioche and lime zest with a creamy mousse and an elegant, saline finish. GOLD white •…

CENTRAL ITALY(excluding Tuscany) Central Italy won 0 Best in Show 1 Platinum (see p68) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze Abruzzo GOLD white • 96 Collefrisio, Semis, Terre di Chieti 2014 (14%) Nutmeg, marzipan, Chinese five spice, vanilla, acacia honey and floral notes leap from the glass on to the very intense, rich and modern palate, which shows some evolution and deft use of oak. This is a great food wine. • 95 Orsogna, Aete, Terre di Chieti 2014 (14%) From its struck-match, wild herb and tropical fruit nose to its lightly oxidised and caramelised pineapple palate, this is quite simply sublime, engaging and tasty. Bravo! GOLD red • 96 Masciarelli, Villa Gemma Riserva, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2014 (14.8%) The maturity does good service to…

GERMANY Germany won 1 Best in Show (see p38) 3 Platinum (see p71) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD white • 96 Hans Wirsching, Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg Riesling GG, Franken 2016 (13%) £34.45 The Wine Barn POA $ Cellars International Lovely crisp and vibrant fresh yellow fruit character. Complex nose of melon peel, lime zest and elder blossoms. Full-bodied palate with mineral intensity. • 96 Hans Wirsching, Iphöfer Julius-Echter-Berg Silvaner GG, Franken 2016 (13.5%) £34.45 The Wine Barn POA $ Cellars International Touch of acacia honey on the nose, paired with white linden petals. Impressive chalky minerality on the palate, showing lovely ripe apple and apricot flavours. • 96 Nik Weis St Urbans-Hof, Layet Grosse Lage Riesling GG, Mosel 2017 (12.5%) Opulent ripe yellow…

LOIRE Loire won 0 Best in Show 0 Platinum For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD sparkling white • 95 De Chanceny, Brut, Crémant de Loire NV (12.5%) £15.95 Great Western Wine Classy appley and minerally nose, with a smoky and mildly reductive character. Lots of impact on the creamy palate, with notes of Bramley apple and citrus. An attractive wine with good length and some complexity. • 95 De Chanceny, Brut Nature, Crémant de Loire NV (12.5%) £19.95 Great Western Wine Hay and orchard fruit aromas with a touch of cashew nut. Delightful creamy texture on the palate, with a long, crisp and slightly toasty finish. Very well done. GOLD white • 96 Domaine de la Perrière, Mégalithe, Sancerre 2016 (12.5%) Aromas of…

NORTHERN ITALY (excluding Veneto) Northern Italy won 1 Best in Show (see p41) 2 Platinum (see p75) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze Friuli-Venezia Giulia GOLD white • 95 Borgo Conventi, Friulano, Collio 2017 (13%) Fruity, floral nose with zingy, herbaceous notes of grapefruit and nettle. The palate is quite rich with yellow and orchard fruit flavours and a long finish. • 95 Muzic, Stare Brajde, Collio 2016 (14%) £15 Grape Passions A complex, layered nose of tobacco, lemongrass, yellow blossoms and vanilla. The palate is quite substantial, with developed and smoky flavours and real solidity of texture. • 95 Russiz Superiore, Riserva Sauvignon, Collio 2013 (13.5%) Floral and fruity nose with fresh, vibrant, herbal notes and a hint of oak. The palate is…

PORTUGAL Portugal won 2 Best in Show (see p44) 0 Platinum For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD red • 96 Pedra Cancela, Winemaker Selection, Dão 2016 (13%) Some really intense vanilla oak, violet, leather and graphite characters to this wine. Elegant Earl Grey tea-infused palate with red fruits, chocolate, liquorice and a savoury minty finish. • 96 Serrano Mira, Herdade das Servas Touriga Nacional, Alentejano 2015 (15%) Complex and inviting aromas of candied blueberries, black olives, bergamot and violet jump out the glass. Exotic and moreish palate, ripe and juicy with oaky tannins. • 95 Quinta do Couquinho, Colheita, Douro 2016 (14%) Ripe, dense aromas of violets, tea leaf, bergamot, peppercorns and fresh black fruit overlay minty blueberry touches. Graphite mineral hints on…

SHERRY Sherry won 2 Best in Show (see p47) 8 Platinum (see p80) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD Fino • 96 González Byass, Tio Pepe Dos Palmas, Fino (15.5%) £17.99/50cl Laithwaite’s Stunning notes of freshly baked bread, green apple and lemon peel unfold to reveal a salty, intense nutty profile and a salivating citrus twist. Very long and crisp. Amontillado • 96 Bodegas Hidalgo La Gitana, Napoleón 30 Years VORS, Amontillado (18%) £56/50cl L’Art du Vin, Mentzendorff, Virgin Wines Exquisite and complex with enticing balsamic, apple peel and warm walnut notes. It’s incredibly fresh and clean with a creamy, macadamia nut texture and a long, lifted finish. • 96 González Byass, Del Duque VORS, Amontillado (21.5%) £19.99/37.5cl Ocado A powerhouse of rich…

SOUTH WEST & REST OF FRANCE South West & rest of France won 0 Best in Show 1 Platinum (see p86) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD red • 96 Domaine Laurens, La Bruyère, Marcillac 2016 (14%) £30 Pierre Hourlier Black pepper, cherry and ripe black fruit nose. Quite structured, with some oak showing, but plenty of fruit. Fantastic tannin quality. A charming and very good wine. • 96 Janicot Vignobles, Lamagdelaine Noire, Cahors 2016 (14.5%) Very polished bouquet of black fruits, violets and laurel. The palate is bold and expressive with talcum powder tannins and a long finish. Very stylish indeed, showing good development potential. • 95 Château La Grézette, Paragon Malbec, Cahors 2016 (15.2%) £120 Top Selection POA $ Curious Cork…

SWITZERLAND Switzerland won 0 Best in Show 3 Platinum (see p91) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD white • 96 Gregor Kuonen Caveau de Salquenen, Nuit Blanche Grandmaître, Valais 2017 (13.8%) Very intense and complex aromas of lemongrass, pineapple, apricot and white pepper. Savoury and full bodied in the mouth – extravagant yet also very charming. Very long, toasty finish. • 95 Adrian & Diego Mathier Nouveau Salquenen, Ambassadeur des Domaines Diego Mathier, Valais 2017 (13.5%) Resplendent nose of pepper, vanilla, cinnamon, spicy oak and rhubarb. The palate is rich and savoury with a lovely herbaceous character and a long, refreshing finish. Will continue to improve. • 95 Albert Mathier & Fils, Vinum Lignum Rein Riesling, Valais 2017 (12%) Mineral, pine and citrus…

USA & MEXICO USA & Mexico won 2 Best in Show (see p26) 5 Platinum (see p52) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze USA GOLD sparkling white • 96 J Vineyards, Cuvée 20 Brut, California NV (12.5%) £32.99 The Vineyard Dorking Beautifully harmonious with intriguing layers of quince, oyster shell, citrus, plum and lime peel and a dry, soft mousse. You can enjoy this now or within the next few years. GOLD white • 96 Domaine Serene, Evenstad Reserve Chardonnay, Dundee Hills, Oregon 2016 (13.9%) £35 Claret-e $65 Domaine Serene Winery Rounded and rich with fine aromas of fragrant lime, fresh lemon cream and notes of deep apple compote with layers of toasty nuttiness. An impressive expression of this wonderful variety. • 96 Napa…

How to read the results Profiles and tasting notes for all 50 Best in Show winners (the best of the Platinum winners) are listed from p25, with profiles and tasting notes for the Platinum winners (the best of the Golds) listed from p56. For an explanation of how the judging process works, please see p6 and p8. From p98, we list Gold medal winners by region. Wines are grouped into colour and/or type, in the order one might drink them over a meal: Sparkling, White, Rosé, Red, Sweet and Fortified. Wines are identified by these colours: green (white wines), pink (rosés), red (reds), orange (sweet and fortified wines). Within the Sparkling sections of each region, wines are further divided into colour: Sparkling white, Sparkling rosé, Sparkling red. Within all of…

The judging process DWWA: the winning wines STAGE 3 - Best in Show 97-100 points Platinum winners are retasted to compete for Best in Show, the ultimate accolade given to the DWWA’s finest wines STAGE 2 - Platinum 97-100 points In the second week, our Co-Chairs and selected Regional Chairs re-taste all the Golds and award Platinum and Value Platinum to the best wines. Value Platinum is awarded to wines under £15 STAGE 1 - Bronze, Silver and Gold medals During week one, Regional Chairs oversee their respective panels and re-taste any wines the judges are not in agreement about. They vaildate all the medals and re-taste Silver and Gold winners for consistency. The Co-Chairs re-taste all the Gold winners for final endorsement. Silver medals are re-tasted twice and Gold…

WHAT I’VE BEEN DRINKING THIS MONTH Domaine Puech, Cuvée Noémie, Languedoc Should I plant vines in our garden, with its thin topsoils over limestone bedrock? A vertical tasting of the Cuvée Noémie from Domaine Puech in St-Clémentde-Rivière, a wine domaine very near my own home, made me think I should. Christophe Puech’s Grés de Montpellier blend of Grenache and Syrah is often superb, particularly after warm years like 2000, 2003, 2006, 2009, 2011 and 2017: sensual, alluring, with black fruits and plump tannins, and capable of modulating attractively with age.…

Rhône Ringers: the verdict Two Châteauneuf-du-Papes scored highly in the tasting, stylistically different but both unmistakably Châteauneuf. Domaine de la Janasse Vieilles Vignes 2017 (95pts) had natural power and concentration with an inner tension that was rare among the Californian Grenachebased wines. Domaine Les Cailloux 2016 (93pts) had a harmony, ease, and tannic refinement that shouted Châteauneuf. Similarly, Domaine Maby Bel Canto 2016 (90pts) was archetypal Lirac: cool, silky and stylish. I included Domaine des Bernardins, Beaumes-de-Venise Rouge 2017 (94pts) to see how it would compare, as the producer doesn’t destem. It did well; the stems weren’t the main focus of the wine, just adding texture and floral lift. It was the best-value wine of the tasting (€13.50 at Leclerc in France). The Fontaine du Clos, Reflets de l’Ame, Vacqueyras…

Elgin: 10 names to know Almenkerk Owned by the Belgian/Dutch family van Almenkerk. Patriarch Joep retired to South Africa in the early 2000s and convinced son Joris and his partner Natalie to undertake wine farming. They acquired an apple farm, converting it to vineyards and building a 300-tonne capacity cellar. This facility is also used by smaller producers in the area. Elgin Ridge Brian and Marion Smith sold their IT business based in southwest London at the end of 2006 and bought a small property in Elgin in April 2007. Today their 6.5ha of vineyard are certified biodynamic – a compost preparation programme ensures high humus levels in the soils, while the resident ducks take care of pest control. Highlands Road Port Elizabeth attorney Michael White acquired this property in…

STEVEN SPURRIER’S fine wine world Decanter’s long-standing consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Hall of Fame Award recipient picks fine wines to drink now and others to lay down, all priced from £25 upwards FROM THE CELLAR Charles Hours, Uroulat, Jurançon 2007 On a sunny Sunday in late May, 65 guests milled around in a cobbled mews in Paris’ 11th arrondissement enjoying AR Lenoble’s Brut Intense 2014 Champagne served from methusalah. This was a prelude to Rhône Ranger Tim Johnston of Juveniles restaurant’s 70th birthday lunch, which drew to a close five hours later. Johnston had chosen six of his favourite producers to offer eight wines, all grands formats, under the theme ‘Big Boys Only’. Once seated, David Morey’s Puligny-Montrachet 2017 and Auxey-Duresses 2016 were swiftly served, to be followed by…

THE JUDGES Susie Barrie MW A widely published wine writer, author and broadcaster, Barrie’s credits include more than a decade on BBC1. She has authored several books, including The Essential Guide to English Wine, co-written with her husband Peter Richards MW. Together the pair also co-host the annual Wine Festival Winchester. Simon Field MW Field was a buyer for Berry Bros & Rudd for more than two decades and now works as a consultant on areas which particularly interested him during that time. Champagne, the Rhône and Languedoc top the list in France, with Spain and the fortified category also featuring prominently. Andy Howard MW Howard is a Decanter contributing editor and Decanter World Wine Awards judge. Having become a Master of Wine in 2011, he now runs his own…

THE JUDGES Nicolas Clerc MS Clerc is a wine buyer for Armit Wines. A Master Sommelier since 2010, he is the current president of the sommelier arm of the UK Academy of Food & Wine Service, and also a board member at the Court of Master Sommeliers Europe. Clerc was awarded the title UK Sommelier of the Year in 2007. Aldo Fiordelli A certified sommelier since 2003, Fiordelli is a widely published Italian journalist, wine writer and author, and a DWWA judge. Editor of the L’Espresso restaurant and wine guide, he also writes for Civiltà del Bere, Italy’s oldest Italian wine magazine. In 2017 he was named Chevalier de l’Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne. Susan Hulme MW Hulme is a wine writer specialising in Italian wines. A regular contributor to…

MY PERFECT DAY IN LISBOA REGION MORNING Enjoy breakfast at The Vintage Hotel* before leaving Lisbon for Colares, 40km away, on the Atlantic coast. The drive through Sintra-Cascais National Park is dotted with fairytale Moorish and late gothic palaces and castles, which merit a day trip in their own right and explain Sintra’s packed narrow streets – avoid the historic centre during the high season. Created in 1931 to stymie counterfeiting (Colares experienced a post-phylloxera surge in demand), the cooperative Adega Regional de Colares (www.arcolares.com) had a monopoly over production until 1994. Serried ranks of massive mahogany barrels attest to its productive history. Today Colares DOC comprises just 12ha, so be sure to buy some at the shop. Tastings and guided tours by appointment. LUNCH & AFTERNOON Fresh, salty and…

Gold-winning wines ALSACE Alsace won 1 Best in Show (see p28) 3 Platinum (see p58) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD white • 95 Domaine Paul Ginglinger, Riesling, Grand Cru Pfersigberg 2017 (13.9%) Seductive lemongrass, citrus and stone fruit nose. Palate is powerful, dry and elegant with a strong acid backbone and enormous length carried by the racy acidity. A great wine to cellar. GOLD red • 95 Domaine Camille Braun, Bollenberg Pinot Noir 2016 (13%) Stunning and complex meaty blackberry and blackcurrant perfume. Palate is full bodied and hugely concentrated with rich and ripe tannins and a very long finish. An outstanding red! • 95 Domaine Schmitt & Carrer, Schloessel Mühle Pinot Noir Eleve en Fût de Chêne 2017 (13.6%) Open, complex,…

AUSTRALIA Australia won 6 Best in Show (see p29) 16 Platinum (see p59) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD sparkling white • 95 Clover Hill, Brut, Tasmania 2013 (12.5%) £27.99 Caviste, DeFine Food & Wine Rich, mature and lees-oriented with baked orchard fruits, lemon confit and mushroom. Luxurious and well structured on the palate with brioche, honey and a fresh acid finish. Really impressive. GOLD sparkling rosé • 95 Sidewood, Isabella Rosé Brut, Adelaide Hills, South Australia 2013 (12%) £19.95 Davy’s Wine Merchants POA $ USA Wine West Sausalito Lovely rich brioche and strawberry fruit nose. Rich and complex with very good balance between primary fruit and secondary flavours. Long finish with round texture. Excellent example. GOLD white • 96 Deep Woods Estate,…

CHAMPAGNE Champagne won 3 Best in Show (see p37) 5 Platinum (see p68) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD sparkling white • 96 Legras & Haas, Les Sillons Blanc de Blancs Brut, Chouilly Grand Cru 2013 (12.5%) £79 Private Cellar Nose of yellow apples and a touch of oak. The palate has opulent brioche, baked apple, whipped cream, lime and lemon flavours, racy acidity and an ultra-long finish. An accomplished wine with a very promising future. • 95 Alexandre Le Brun, N°1 Zéro Dosage 2008 (12%) Aromas of crème brûlée and ripe orange fruit with flavours of creamy yellow apples, zingy citrus and brioche. The oak adds tannic structure to the wine and makes for an intriguing aftertaste. Great development potential here. Long…

GREECE & CYPRUS Greece & Cyprus won 1 Best in Show (see p39) 1 Platinum (see p72) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze Greece GOLD white • 96 Estate Argyros, Assyrtiko, Santorini, Aegean Islands 2018 (13.5%) £25 Clark Foyster Classy example with a whispering presence and crystalline fruitiness that recalls a ripe Chablis. The palate is meticulously textured and undeniably complex. Outstanding wine with a long, cleansing finish. • 96 Estate Argyros, Cuvee Monsignori, Santorini, Aegean Islands 2017 (14%) £29 Clark Foyster Superb nose, reminiscent of wild oregano and thyme with an intense gunflint character. Green and yellow pear flavours with endless length. Classy stuff. • 96 Ktima Gerovassiliou, Museum Collection, Epanomi, Macedonia 2018 (14%) £60 Cava Spiliadis UK Perfumed nose of lychee, acacia…

NEW ZEALAND New Zealand won 3 Best in Show (see p40) 3 Platinum (see p74) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD white • 96 Astrolabe, Durvillea Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough 2018 (13%) £12.70 Armit Wines Appealing aromas of citrus, herbs and tropical notes. Bright and steely with minerals and wet stone. Gooseberry and nettle flavours and crisp textured freshness. • 96 Domain Road Vineyard, Defiance Chardonnay, Bannockburn, Central Otago 2017 (14%) $29 ILoveNZwine.com Attractive bouquet of peach with hints of lemon and toasted hazelnuts. Beautiful purity to the fruit on the palate, with citrus acidity and a creamy core. • 95 Ceres, Swansong Pinot Gris, Bannockburn, Central Otago 2018 (14.5%) POA $ NZ Wine Navigator Sweet pear, green apple, honeysuckle and white nectarine perfume…

PIEDMONT Piedmont won 1 Best in Show (see p42) 6 Platinum (see p75) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD red • 96 Batasiolo, Briccolina, Barolo 2015 (15%) £65.08 Mondial Wine Balsamic and aromatic herb notes on the bouquet. Rich and savoury with nicely integrated oak, a lovely middle palate, refined tannins and a long finish. Great development potential here. • 96 Diego Marengo Ca’ Brusà, Vigna d’Vai, Barolo 2006 (14%) POA $ Vision Wine Brands Minty, floral nose and a big, ripe, elegant palate of crushed cranberry and sour cherry fruit imbued with dark liquorice, tobacco and coffee characters. Vibrant and complex. • 96 Fontanafredda, Serralunga d’Alba, Barolo 2015 (14%) £39.50 Great Western Wine Classic, ripe Barolo with elegant floral and pot pourri…

PROVENCE Provence won 1 Best in Show (see p45) 2 Platinum (see p79) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD white • 95 Château de Crémat, Bellet 2014 (13.5%) Fabulously multi-layered, with a nose of gingerbread, honeysuckle and butter-kissed stone fruits. In the mouth, the ginger reappears accompanied by thyme, brioche and candied lemon. Compact, complex and powerful. • 95 Domaine La Suffrene, Bandol 2018 (13.5%) £14.68 A&B Vintners POA $ Bandol Wines, T Edward Wines Gorgeously aromatic, boasting spring flowers, juicy lemons, guava and other tropical fruits, then peaches and cream and musky grape, all tied together with fresh-apple acidity. GOLD rosé • 95 Cascavel, Monts & Vertiges, Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence 2018 (13%) £12.99 Laurence Hayward & Partners $16.99 T Elenteny Imports Silky and…

SOUTHERN & EASTERN MEDITERRANEAN Southern & Eastern Mediterranean won 0 Best in Show 1 Platinum (see p84) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze Israel GOLD white • 95 Golan Heights Winery, Yarden Pinot Gris, Golan Heights, Galilee 2018 (13%) £17.90-£18.70 Hatov, Kosher Kingdom, Kosher Wine Cellar Light and delicate celebration of Pinot Gris, with crisp lemony fruit that has a sappy coating as well as an interesting, lean, mineral texture heightened by crisp acidity. GOLD red • 96 Carmel Winery, Mediterranean, Judean Hills & Upper Galilee 2016 (15%) £40 Kedem Europe POA $ Royal Wine Corp Beautifully fine tannins and exquisite freshness are the foundations here. Assertive and composed, the melting palate has black olive complexity joining the the boldly oaked rich black fruits.…

SOUTHERN ITALY Southern Italy won 1 Best in Show (see p48) 5 Platinum (see p84) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze Campania GOLD white • 96 Marisa Cuomo, Fiorduva, Costa d’Amalfi 2017 (14%) £60 Annessa Imports $60 Panebianco Refined layers of honeyed and buttered toast, nuts, red apple and peach with bright, elegant acidity, beautiful fruit purity and a mouthfilling texture. Wonderfully long and lingering. • 95 Tenuta Scuotto, Oi nì Fiano 2015 (14%) £26-£28 Annessa Imports, Fiandaca $30 Shiverick Imports A captivating palate of ripe tropical fruit, savoury bready notes and honeyed nuts, with a warm, rich and lush texture balanced by mouthwatering acidity. Concentrated, decadent and long. GOLD red • 95 San Salvatore, Gillo Dorfles Aglianico, Paestum 2015 (15%) £55 Dolce Vita…

Best in show ALSACE Dopff-au-Moulin, Gewurztraminer, Grand Cru Brand 2017 (14%) This grand cru above Turckheim is magnificently exposed, giving Gewurztraminer all the ripeness it needs to reach its aromatic apogee. Billowing scents of lychee, rose and ginger lead to a palate of great sumptuousness yet feathery softness, lush but never cloying thanks to the bitterness of Gewurz from this granite hilside. It’s not dry but it’s not a dessert wine either; instead it’s a lavishly complete wine to enjoy on its own or partnering with rich pâté or cheese. Drink 2019-2022 £35.49 Hallgarten & Novum $29.17 Heritage Wine Cellars Etienne-Arnaud Dopff is the 13th generation in charge of his family property, a responsibility he assumed willingly: ‘I grew up on the estate but was never forced into anything,’ he…

Platinum ALSACE Domaine Paul Ginglinger, Gewurztraminer, Grand Cru Pfersigberg 2017 (13.8%) A rich and opulent example with fresh peach aromas and hints of honey. The palate is sweet with a strong acidic backbone creating great balance and an exhilarating mouthfeel. Fresh and long finish. A rich Gewurztraminer to cellar. N/A UK www.paul-ginglinger.fr Following internships in Chile, South Africa and Burgundy, Michel Ginglinger (and wife Loreto) took over winemaking duties from his father, Paul, in 2000, meaning he is the 13th-generation winemaker in the family’s 400-year history. The property, 5km south of Colmar, has 13ha of vineyards which get all the benefits of the sun while being sheltered by the Vosges Mountains. In the Pfersigberg grand cru – possibly the finest vineyard in all of Alsace for Gewurztraminer – the family…

Letter of the month Memories of Torres The ‘Wine Legends’ focus on Torres’ Gran Coronas Reserva (August 2019 issue) evoked special memories. Back in the early 1970s, my father organised family tours in the Catalonia area – it was no coincidence that this would give him an opportunity to visit the Torres vineyards near Vilafranca del Penedès. There was always room in the car for a case of wine! After our first visit, I recall my father’s disappointment when he couldn’t find any Gran Coronas ‘Black Label’ in the cellar shop. His lack of Spanish made for an interesting exchange of words and gestures, until the assistant finally twigged. A case duly appeared from the back, much to the delight of both my father the shop…

Hugh Johnson ‘The market has gleefully absorbed all this novelty’ What’s changed?’ is the first question I’m asked. Changed, that is, in the six years between the seventh and eighth (just out) editions of The World Atlas of Wine – or sometimes between this joint Jancis/Johnson number and my first edition, 48 years ago. Yes, I’ve been writing the same book for almost half a century. ‘Everything’ is the glib answer. ‘The climate’ is another. Big changes: yes, of course. New Zealand had a postage-stamp slot in 1971, and China, of course, no slot at all. Burgundy? Bordeaux? It’s not mappable physical changes so much as details, techniques, attitudes and atmosphere. And certainly extensions: into the Bordeaux Côtes (Castillon, Francs, Cadillac), where the wine now is at least as good…

RHONE 10 exciting southern Rhône estates This large region’s vineyards are as diverse as they are plentiful. Matt Walls profiles 10 producers that stand out from the rest and recommends a wine from each Photographs: Mick Rock/Cephas; www.roucastoumba.com; @PersilladeEM/Twitter; Christophe Grilhe; Matt Walls OCCASIONALLY WHEN I taste a wine, I get an overwhelming urge to run into the street, plant a glass in the hand of the nearest person and exclaim: ‘You have to taste this!’ In all likelihood that would get me arrested, so thankfully I can write about them here instead. To follow is a list of 10 southern Rhône estates that have had this effect on me over the past year. Wines that have planted a flag in my mental wine map that I can’t help returning…

Best Elgin whites and reds: Eedes’ mixed dozen 1 Elgin Ridge, Chaos White 2018 94 £25-£28.50 Handford, Harrods, Hedonism, The Good Wine Shop, WoodWinters 74% Sauvignon Blanc, 26% Semillon. Some skin contact before maturation in older oak. A super-complex nose with top notes of elderflower and dried herbs before lemon, orange and ginger. Good concentration, with a real refinement about it. Drink 2019-2023 Alcohol 14% Richard Kershaw, Clonal Selection Chardonnay 2017 94 £44 Berry Bros & Rudd, WoodWinters Grapes from four clones grown on nine parcels of land. Maturation of 11 months, mainly in French oak but also breathable egg. Pear, white peach and citrus, plus some oak spice on the nose. Weightless intensity – layers of flavour, long and savoury. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 13.5% Boschendal, Appellation Series Elgin Sauvignon…

The Decanter interview David Babich This year marks the 200th anniversary of the planting of the first vines in New Zealand. Josip Babich was one of the country’s founding winemakers and today his pioneering winery is still family-run, with grandson David at the helm. Rebecca Gibb MW meets him to talk legacies and future prospects DAVID BABICH LIKES water as much as wine. The head of one of New Zealand’s oldest wineries might be sitting behind his desk poring over the future strategy of his family’s business on weekdays, but his healthy complexion and athletic physique are evidence of his love of kitesurfing and windsurfing on Auckland’s waters. It’s part of his need for speed, which was evident at an early stage. ‘I got a motorbike…

Potted history: the key terms in amphorae and clay vessels The word amphora has Greek origins, and describes a small round-bottomed ceramic or earthenware vessel used for storage, typically holding less than 50 litres. True amphorae usually have two handles and a very slim neck. Two different Greek sizes and shapes more closely resemble those used in the modern era for winemaking: Pithos A medium-sized vessel, with a capacity of up to 1,000 litres. COS winery, in Sicily, uses the term to denote its amphora-fermented range. Dolium Flat-bottomed and very large, with a wide mouth. According to Oregon-based potter and winemaker Andrew Beckham, this is the most suitable shape for fermentation. Local variants Tinaja Spanish term, which translates literally as ‘jar’. Tinajas are smaller than their Georgian counterparts (400-litre is…

Mount Eden Vineyards: a timeline 1933 Paul Masson suggests Martin Ray purchase land that later becomes Mount Eden Vineyards 1943 Ray starts planting Chardonnay, Pinot Noir 1950s Ray builds house and winery, still in use 1955-1962 Ray adds Cabernet vines 1960s Ray seeks capital partners, dreaming of a California version of DRC 1971 The Ray partnership collapses 1972 Remaining partners rechristen estate Mount Eden Vineyards; Richard Graff of Chalone hired 1974 Merry Edwards becomes winemaker 1981 Jeffrey Patterson is hired; Santa Cruz Mountains is now AVA; replanting begins 1983 Patterson becomes winemaker, Ellie business manager 1985 Edna Valley project with purchased grapes begins 2007 Cinnabar vineyards purchased, renamed Domaine Eden 2008 Pattersons become majority shareholders 2018 Mount Eden starts offering tasting experiences by appointment; son Reid joins the winery…

Brook’s top 20: best of Etna’s volcanic whites and reds Alta Mora, Etna Bianco 2017 93 £18.55-£20.99 Buy Fine Wine, The Wine Reserve Pure Carricante, aged in steel tanks. A waxy but bracing nose, with apricot, apple and a mineral tang. Full-bodied and creamy, yet has a fine acidic cut, with a crisp assertive impression on the palate. Long stony finish; energy and power. Drink 2019-2026 Alcohol 13% Pietradolce, Archineri, Etna Bianco 2018 93 £37.70-£38.69 Armit, Italvinus, The Oxford Wine Co Splendid wine, produced from pre-phylloxera vines at 850m on Etna’s eastern slopes. Lively lime nose, the attack fresh and intense. Ripe citrus flavours dominate; very concentrated, mineral and imposing. Drink 2019-2028 Alc 13.5% 1 Planeta, Eruzione 1614, Sicily 2017 92 Photographs: Tim Atkin; David Silverman/Getty £22.33-£29.50 Carruthers & Kent,…

Wine storage specialists A & W Moore Wine Racks UK Designers of bespoke wine racks and cabinets in a range of finishes. www.wineracks.co.uk Capital Interiors A luxury interior design and build company that offers wine cellar creation. www.capitalinteriors.co.uk Cellar Maison Wine specialists that design and build bespoke cellars, wine walls and pods. www.cellarmaison.com Friedrich Gruber This Austrian company builds striking vaulted wine cellars all over the world. www.winecellar.at Halstock Designs, makes and installs bespoke luxury interiors, including wine cellars. www.halstock.com Smith & Taylor Designers of made-to-measure wine rooms; also offers storage of your wines. www.smithandtaylor.com Sorrells Wine Racks Designs and builds creative wine storage solutions for any home space. www.sorrells-wineracks.co.uk Spiral Cellars Designs underground spiral cellars, plus wine walls, cabinets and rooms. www.spiralcellars.co.uk Wineware Offers a wide range of assembled…

The Spurrier selection Domaine de la Taille aux Loups, Clos de Mosny Sec, Montlouissur-Loire, France 2017 93 £30.95 Haynes Hanson & Clark From his monopole vineyard, the brilliant Jacky Blot selects only carefully chosen bunches from the oldest Chenin Blanc vines to creste a wine that marries florality and minerality in a beautifully crafted manner. Drink 2019-2027 Alc 12.5% Neudorf Vineyards, Moutere Albarino, Nelson, New Zealand 2018 93 £26.95 Berry Bros & Rudd , The New Zeland Cellar The warm sea breezes of Nelson (compared to Spain’s Atlantic Coast) have tamed Albarino’s acidity while retaining its classic saline minerality, Neudorf’s organically farmed vineyards and wild yeast fermentation adding an extra layer to lift the fruit. Drink 2019-2022 Alc 12.5% Stéphane Ogier, L’Ame Soeur, Syrah de Seyssuel, Collines Rhodaniennes, France 2017…

HOW IT’S DONE: SPARKLING WINE METHODS The term ‘blanc de blancs’ refers to a sparkling wine that has been made exclusively from white grapes; blanc de noirs therefore only from black/red grapes. Chardonnay is the most prevalent example of the former, Pinot Noir of the latter – the two are usually blended in Champagne, often with Pinot Meunier, another black grape. Traditional-method sparkling wine has undergone the second fermentation process and subsequent ageing in bottle, the yeasts in the bottle contributing to the complexity of flavours over time and subsequently removed by a process known as disgorgement. Other sparkling wines undergo a similar process in a larger vessel, usually a stainless-steel tank – or, in the least expensive versions, carbonated by injection. The most commonly used methods are Charmat, continuous…

PANEL TASTING Rosso di Montalcino, Tuscany These DOC Sangiovese reds hail from the same vineyards as their DOCG Brunello big brothers, and provide a good-value window onto vintage style, says Susan Hulme MW Montalcino is a classic Italian medieval hill town, perched at 567m in the province of Siena, Tuscany. It is the home of one of Italy’s most prestigious red wines, Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, and Rosso di Montalcino DOC is its little sister wine. Both are 100% Sangiovese, but whereas Brunello is matured for a minimum of four years before release and is one of Italy’s longest-lived wines, Rosso di Montalcino is required to be matured for only 10 months. While it shares the same distinctive location, it is a more accessible, earlier-drinking version of Sangiovese, less expensive…

EXPERTS CHOICE English Bacchus 2018 There’s suddenly a lot of buzz around Bacchus as a potential ‘signature grape’ for UK-produced still wines. Susie Barrie MW picks her selection of the best bottles to try For many of us, the first image conjured up by the word ‘Bacchus’ is of a Roman god, perhaps with a crown of vine leaves, an entrancing and ambivalent figure full of mystery and fascination. Bacchus the grape variety doesn’t enjoy quite the same fame – or infamy – as its classical namesake, though it is arguably no less intriguing. Created in Germany in 1933, Bacchus is a crossing of Müller-Thurgau with a Silvaner x Riesling cross. It ripens early, so has the advantage of being suitable for sites considered too cool for Riesling. It can…

YOUR LISBOA ADDRESS BOOK ACCOMMODATION Areias do Seixo Eco-friendly, indulgent 14-room boho-chic spa hotel by the coast, an hour’s drive north of Lisbon. Pared-back beachfront sister-hotel Noah Surf House for sportier types. www.areiasdoseixo.com Casa da Nora Pretty hotel and restaurant in a converted water mill in northern Lisboa, near famous pilgrimage site Fátima. Rustic charm encapsulated. www.casadanora.com The Vintage Hotel & Spa Stylish art deco hotel in a quiet location off Lisbon’s chic shopping streets. Big on comfort and hospitality; nice touches include a complimentary G&T trolley. www.thevintagelisbon.com RESTAURANTS Alma Henrique Sá Pessoa offers a witty take on traditional flavours at this two-star Michelin experience. www.almalisboa.pt Belcanto The two-star Michelin flagship of José Avillez’s empire. Exquisite dishes. Wine choices embrace both Portuguese classics and quirky gems. www.belcanto.pt Epur Vincent Farges’…

MY TOP 10 IN ROME 1 Enoteca Trimani The Trimani family runs Rome’s oldest wine shop – with more than 6,000 labels, including many artisan and natural – and also produces wine from its own estate in Lazio. The multi-generational business began in 1821 and moved to its present location on the corner of Via Goito in 1876. Next door, in what was Rome’s first wine bar, Carla Trimani cooks delicious local dishes and serves artisan salumi and cheeses to accompany the exciting wine list. www.trimani.com and ilwinebar@ trimani.com 2 Hostaria da Benito e Gilberto Photographs: SvetlanaSF/Getty; Carla Capalbo When in Rome, Romans love to eat seafood: the coast is nearby. This small, family-run restaurant is filled with locals – including clergy from the nearby Vatican – tucking…

Tasting notes decoded Cream Written by Laura Seal Surely dairy products have little to do with fermented grape juice? Don’t be confused: dairy is indeed a category in the wine-tasting lexicon, including notes like butter, cheese, yoghurt and cream. These flavours can arise from winemaking practices, such as malolactic fermentation (MLF), the process by which bacteria convert sharp-tasting malic acid into softer lactic acid – the same that’s found in dairy products like cream. Diacetyl, a natural chemical byproduct of MLF, can give wines a rich creamy, buttery or butterscotch odour. It can also change the mouthfeel of wines, giving a smoother and more viscose texture, as might be associated with cream. A creamy mouthfeel can also derive from the influence of the wine’s lees during production: resting the finished…

Time is right for Massetino ‘second wine’ release Masseto will this October launch a ‘second wine’ named Massetino from the exceptionally hot and dry Tuscan 2017 vintage. A ‘very limited number of bottles’ of Massetino 2017 were produced, and will be released to select merchants in the US and Italy, said the Frescobaldi family-owned estate, without revealing pricing. ‘The new winery [opened this year] provides us with the right environment to pursue this new project,’ said Giovanni Geddes, Masseto CEO. Masseto is a relatively strong performer on the secondary market, and the developments will be watched with interest by fine wine collectors. Prices based on Liv-ex data in sterling up to 12 July 2019, unless otherwise stated…

Domaine Leroy, Richebourg 1999 Côte de Nuits Grand Cru, Burgundy, France A legend because… Lalou Bize-Leroy created Domaine Leroy in 1988 by buying the richly endowed 12ha Charles Noëllat estate in Vosne, followed some years later by Domaine Philippe Rémy in Gevrey-Chambertin. Today she owns 22ha. She has always been utterly uncompromising, with a strong belief in biodynamic farming and very low yields that rarely exceed 25hl/ha. She converted the entire domaine to biodynamics in 1988. This refusal to cut corners is what justifies her very high prices, but few would question that the quality of her wines places the domaine among the very greatest properties in Burgundy. Looking back In 1993, severe mildew almost destroyed Madame Bize-Leroy’s crop, allowing some to question whether the biodynamics was at fault –…

ARGENTINA & rest of South America (excluding Chile) Argentina & rest of South America won 1 Best in Show (see p28) 1 Platinum (see p58) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze Argentina GOLD white • 96 Bodegas Etchart, Gran Linaje Torrontés, Cafayate, Salta 2018 (13.5%) Intense and vibrant wine with a floral nose, flavours of white orchard and stone fruits, refreshing acidity and a very good finish, with hints of peach, honey and lemon on the aftertaste. A lovely example of the Torrontés grape. GOLD red • 96 Andeluna, Pasionado Cabernet Franc, Gualtallary, Tupungato, Mendoza 2016 (14%) £34.99 Corking Wines, Fintry Wines, Great Wines Direct, Hallgarten & Novum, Wineman POA $ MHW Ltd Wild and expressive aromas of gunpowder, earth and fresh herbs. The…

AUSTRIA Austria won 0 Best in Show 1 Platinum (see p63) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD white • 96 Alzinger, Ried Steinertal Smaragd Grüner Veltliner, Wachau, Niederösterreich 2017 (13.5%) £41.39 Alpine Wines An expressive nose of juicy peaches, ripe apricots, white blossoms and hints of candied lemon peel.The palate is rich and aromatic with notes of saffron and honey, which is balanced by fresh acidity. It’s subtle, spicy and savoury with an inviting finish. • 96 Petra Unger, Ried Gottschelle 1ÖTW Grüner Veltliner, Kremstal, Niederösterreich 2017 (13.5%) POA $ The Winebow Group Rich, powerful nose of cardamon, lemongrass, red apples, pear, lime, honey and hazelnuts, with a hint of seaweed and rose adding interest. These follow on to the elegantly structured, textured…

BORDEAUX Bordeaux won 1 Best in Show (see p34) 0 Platinum For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD red • 96 Château Le Caillou, Pomerol 2016 (13.5%) Gorgeous, silky nose laden with minerals and black plum skin. So appealing and appetising, with a stunning, textured palate of graphite, leather, cassis and liquorice. A beautiful wine. • 96 Le Créateur, Château Haut Breton Larigaudière, Margaux 2017 (13%) Wonderfully crafted wine, with intense aromas of raspberry, cedar, cassis and flowers. Svelte attack to the cranberry and vanilla bean palate, with satin tannins and bright acidity. Impeccable balance. • 95 Château La Croizille, St-Emilion GC 2016 (14%) £49.99 Handford Lots to love here – full of baking spices, black cherry fruit and fresh Cabernet Franc characters. Powerful,…

CAUCASUS & EURASIA Caucasus & Eurasia won 1 Best in Show (see p36) 1 Platinum (see p68) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze Armenia GOLD red • 95 Schuler, Noa Noah of Areni, Vayots Dzor 2016 (13.5%) Attractive berry fruit with leafy, tobacco and hints of mint. Lively acidity on the light-bodied palate that shows no oak influence. Very inviting. Lovely varietal character with the potential to age. Georgia GOLD white • 95 Telavi Wine Cellar, Satrapezo Mtsvane, Kakheti 2016 (13%) £15.99 Georgian Wine Guild Elegant baked fruits, smoked honey and a nice citrus thread running through the spicy, ripe palate. Really pleasurable balance here – a wonderful little gem!…

CHILE Chile won 0 Best in Show 5 Platinum (see p70) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD sparkling rosé • 95 Undurraga, Rosé Royal, Leyda Valley, San Antonio NV (12.3%) Beautiful summer fruit and red apple nose. The palate is fruit-forward, juicy and elegant with refreshing acidity, a crisp mousse and a long, red cherry finish. Really well made, expressive and joyful. GOLD white • 95 Cono Sur, Reserva Especial Riesling, Bío Bío Valley 2018 (12.5%) Opulent and perfumed with layers of baked apple, white flower and petroleum notes, and a palate plush with rewarding apple and succulent citrus. • 95 Viña Casablanca, Nimbus Single Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Casablanca Valley 2018 (13.5%) £15 James Nicholson POA $ Carolina Wine Brands USA Elegant, inviting…

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLON Languedoc-Roussillon won 1 Best in Show (see p39) 5 Platinum (see p72) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD white • 96 Château Viranel, Tradition, St-Chinian 2018 (13.5%) £12.99 Cambridge Wine Merchants POA $ Lemma Wines, Regal Wine Imports Intense banana and stone fruit nose with a hint of vanilla oak. The palate is soft and supple with an oily texture and great persistence. Very attractive price, too. • 95 Château D’Antugnac, Terres Amoureuses, Limoux 2017 (13.5%) Lovely aromas of stone fruit and citrus. Fresh and zesty palate with well-integrated oak and flavours of ripe apricot, peach and spice. Vibrant, with a rich finish. • 95 Domaine St-Ferréol, Viognier, IGP Pays d’Oc 2017 (13%) £14.99 Majestic Aromatic tropical fruit nose, showing ripe mango,…

NORTHERN & EASTERN EUROPE Northern & Eastern Europe won 0 Best in Show 4 Platinum (see p74) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze Czech Republic GOLD white • 96 Zámecké Vinařství Bzenec, Terroir Moravia, Za Cihelnou Ryzlink Rýnský, Mikulov, Mikulovská, Moravia 2015 (12.5%) Decidedly aromatic in style, with a pronounced blossom character, plus citrus, melon, honey and minerals. To taste, it’s crunchy, textured and a play between fruit and flowers, with a delicate petroleum finish. Hungary GOLD sparkling white • 96 Kreinbacher Birtok, Classic Brut NV (12%) Great elegance and complexity: refined autolytic notes of biscuit and bread, plus deeper toasty flavours. Mouthfilling, intense, generous and lingering citrus fruit. GOLD white • 95 Holdvölgy, Vision, Tokaj 2017 (13%) £13.67 Justerini & Brooks Lovely pronounced…

PORT & MADEIRA Port & Madeira won 4 Best in Show (see p42) 7 Platinum (see p77) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze Port GOLD • 96 Cálem, 30 Year Old Tawny (20%) £65 Amathus Drinks Intense and inviting aromas of hazelnut, praline, figs and earthy spices. Rich, caramelly texture, with sweet, spicy oak then iodine, earth and leather to finish. In excellent shape. • 95 Andresen, Colheita 1995 (20%) Punching above its weight, with comforting aromas of warm, just-baked brown bread, honey, hazelnut and burnt citrus, leading to an enveloping, sumptuous palate of pecans, pencil lead and streaks of citrus. • 95 Barros, 10 Year Old Tawny (20%) £21-£21.75 Exel Wines, Hallgarten & Novum Markedly rich and rolling style, with soft fruit cake…

RHONE Rhône won 2 Best in Show (see p46) 5 Platinum (see p79) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD white • 96 Chabal & Chartreux, Je Résiste à Tout Sauf à la Tentation, Côtes du Rhône 2018 (13.5%) This is classy and impeccably turned out, with a flinty, citrus and white fruit nose. A very dry and well-put together blend showing a touch of grapefruit on the long and persistent finish. • 95 Ravoire & Fils, Rhône to the Bone Grenache-Viognier, Côtes du Rhône 2018 (13.5%) £10.99 Les Producteurs et Vignerons de France Lifted, fresh and attractive. It’s expressive, elegant, well balanced and mineral on the palate, with brightly perfumed Viognier fruit. Really delicious and drinkable – and very Rhône at its heart.…

SOUTH AFRICA South Africa won 0 Best in Show 6 Platinum (see p82) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD white • 96 Kleine Zalze, Vineyard Selection Sauvignon Blanc, Western Cape 2017 (13.5%) Attractive elderflower, green pea, lemon and passion fruit aromas. Palate confirms the nose, plus notes of pineapple and a mineral twist. Long, mouthwatering, resinous finish. • 96 Strandveld Vineyards, First Sighting Sauvignon Blanc, Cape Agulhas 2018 (12.5%) £11.45-£12.95 Ellis Wines, Exel Wines, The Grog Shop Genuine, lively, fresh nettle and elderflower aromas. Very typical and expressive with cool-climate Sauvignon notes. Super balance on the fresh, yet powerful palate. • 96 Uva Mira Mountain Vineyards, Chardonnay, Stellenbosch 2017 (13.5%) £64.99 Museum Wines Youthful wine with a solid intensity of primary aromas of…

SPAIN Spain won 6 Best in Show (see p48) 12 Platinum (see p88) For Silver-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/silver For Bronze-winning wines go to www.decanter.com/dwwa/bronze GOLD sparkling white • 96 Gramona, III Lustros Paraje Calificado Brut Nature, Cava 2012 (12%) NB: This wine is now labelled as Corpinnat instead of Cava £45.50 Berry Bros & Rudd Concentrated citrus character with a complex buttery, spicy quality on the nose. Very elegant on the palate: finely textured and delicate mousse with a vibrant finish. GOLD white • 96 Cambados Urban Winery, Desconcierto Albariño, Rías Baixas 2018 (13.5%) $26.99 Wine Bridge Imports Very pretty and pure aromas of crisp yellow pears with a fragrant citrus quality. Candied fruit character on the mid-palate, with great concentration and incredible length. Very well constructed. • 96…

High-street winners UK SHOPPER’S GUIDE Your handy shopping list of selected DWWA 2019 winners from the UK’s leading high-street merchants PLATINUM • 97 Château du Galoupet, Côtes de Provence Cru Classé, France 2016 £14.95 GOLD • 95 Camel Valley, Pinot Noir Rosé Brut, Cornwall, England, UK 2016 £29 • 95 Camel Valley, Bacchus Dry, Cornwall, England, UK 2018 £13.95 • 95 Pazo de Villarei, Albariño, Rías Baixas, Spain 2018 £9.95 SILVER • 91 The Society’s Exhibition Grüner Veltliner, Kamptal, Niederösterreich, Austria 2018 £13.95 • 90 A Fistful of Schist, Reserve Chenin Blanc, Swartland, South Africa 2018 £6.25 • 90 Domaine Tariquet, Amplitude, IGP Côtes de Gascogne, Southwest France 2018 £9.95 • 90 The Society’s Exhibition Pouilly-Fuissé, Burgundy, France 2016 £22 • 90 The Society’s Grüner Veltliner, Kremstal, Niederösterreich, Austria 2018…

Welcome THE QUEST FOR THE BEST The logistical challenge is daunting: 16,534 wines to categorise, and more than 66,000 bottles of wine (four samples of each wine are required to take it through its potential journey to Best in Show) to trundle into place at London’s Royal Victoria Docks. Every sample is served blind to our United Nations of wine judges, flying in to London from every continent. Two hard-working weeks later, and we have crystallised this mass of winemaking endeavour into our final results. Some 1,609 wines received no award and no commendation, but some useful benchmarking feedback. There were fewer Seals of Approval this year than in the past (2,707, or 16.37% of entries): this commendation is given to ‘simple and acceptable’ wines which our judges would enjoy…

The judging process DWWA: the judging process The Decanter World Wine Awards are rooted in regionality. Wines are judged first and foremost within their region, by a panel of experts in that region. The judges look for typicity above all, rewarding wines that are true to their terroir. Turn to p10 to find out more about the credentials of our DWWA Co-Chairs and Regional Chairs, as well as a list of judges for each region. Flights of wines are organised to ensure judges do not jump between contrasting styles in short timeframes, or risk palate fatigue by tasting very tannic wines over a long period. Judges taste between 75 to 80 wines a day, in optimum conditions – seated, in a plain, white room, under natural light. They taste from…

In brief Stay up to date with the latest wine news on Decanter.com, or follow us on Facebook or Twitter @Decanter ■ French Michelin-starred restaurant Maison Rostang has confirmed that thieves stole €400,000 worth of fine wine between 30 June and 1 July. Maison Rostang said that ‘irreplaceable’ vintages produced by Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, Petrus, Latour and Lafite were stolen via a hole that had been cut into the wall of the cellars under the streets of Paris. ■ The heavy Burgundy frosts of 2016 have resulted in a ‘one-off’ blend from seven Montrachet grand cru vineyard owners, including Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Domaine Leflaive. Low yields led to the producers putting their harvests together to create just under 700 bottles of wine, titled ‘L’Exceptionnelle Vendange des 7…

Andrew Jefford ‘One question...is it not time to reclassify Burgundy’s climats?’ It was dark crimson: only a little redder and more translucent than human blood. Pungent, ripe raspberry fruits filled the air, even before I sniffed; the wine was structured, vivacious and arresting in the mouth. ‘This is absolutely,’ said Frédéric Barnier, the technical director for Louis Jadot, ‘not the colour we are looking for. But it is like that.’ The wine was the unfinished 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Chanlin. Five more reds from this great infant vintage followed, climaxing with the best young Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes I have ever tried: scents of vaulting loveliness, and flavours of commanding intensity and drive. No wonder everyone in the region is so happy with last year’s harvest. ‘In 20…

CALIFORNIAN RED BUYS Californian premium Rhône reds We asked Decanter’s Rhône expert Matt Walls to blind taste largely Syrah- and Grenache-based Californian wines with some from France hidden in the line-up. Here he reports on his findings and recommends his top 20 Rhône Rangers ACCORDING TO PATRICK J Comiskey’s book American Rhône, this year marks the 50th anniversary of the first Rhône varietal bottling of the modern era in the US – a Santa Clara Valley Grenache by David Bruce in 1969. In just five decades, Californian wines based on classic Rhône varieties, or ‘Rhône Rangers’ as they’re known, have gone through an evolution that’s as rapid as it is dramatic. Though they’ve occasionally impressed, I’ve always gravitated back to the Rhône: its wines have a consistency, balance and finesse…

Elgin at a glance Founded First vineyards of modern era planted in 1986; declared a ward of the greater Overberg district in 1990; declared a district in its own right in 2011 Growing conditions Higher altitude with vineyards planted at about 300m-500m above sea level, ocean proximity, specific cloud cover sequencing and a large diurnal range – cool nights allow the vines to resuscitate themselves, prolonging grape maturation Annual rainfall 800mm-1,200mm Vineyard area 739ha Structure 53 growers, 12 cellars Main grapes Sauvignon Blanc 37%, Chardonnay 15%, Pinot Noir 14.5%, Syrah 8%…

New Zealand pioneers Alongside the Babich family, here are five other key names that helped to shape the country’s wine history. AUNTSFIELD Scotsman David Herd bought land in Marlborough’s Southern Valleys and planted Muscat vines circa 1873. While the vineyard was pulled up in 1931, the Auntsfield wine tradition has been resurrected by the Cowley family. CORBANS Lebanese immigrant Assid Abraham Corban bought a 3.9ha block of land in west Auckland in 1902 and grew vines despite a strong prohibitionist sentiment at that time. The Corban family lost control of the brand to tobacco company Rothmans in the 1970s, but the family remained involved in the industry through the fourth-generation Alwyn (who sold his brand Ngatarawa Wines to Mission Estate in 2017) and Jeremy Corban (Big Sky, Martinborough). MISSION ESTATE…

McCoy’s picks: the best of Mount Eden Vineyards Mount Eden Vineyards, Estate Reserve Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains 2013 95 £70 Roberson Depth and concentration are the hallmarks of this wine, which isn’t made every year, but it also has a wonderful brightness, mint and citrussy aromas, with a harmonious, complex finish. Wow. Drink 2020-2035 Alcohol 14% 1 Mount Eden Vineyards, Estate Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains 2014 92 £65 Roberson Pure and racy, this classy wine is also rich and powerful. Vibrant pear and mineral character, with plenty of structure and energy. It has more precision and minerality than the 2015. Drink 2019-2028 Alc 13.5% Domaine Eden, Chardonnay, Santa Cruz Mountains 2015 91 £34 Roberson Photograph: Mount Eden Vineyards Balanced and harmonious, with aromas of nuts and citrus. Lush, fruit-forward, vivid…

Brook’s Etna top 20 (continued...) Graci, Etna Rosso 2016 92 £20.10-£26.75 Blanco & Gomez, Christopher Keiller, Hic, WoodWinters This excellent basic red by Alberto Aiello Graci is from younger vines. Packed with rich cherry and raspberry aromas, it’s suave and full-bodied, with fine acidity and intensity. It’s also distinctly tannic but not raw. Flamboyant and long. Drink 2019-2026 Alc 14% Palmento Costanzo, Nero di Sei, Etna Rosso 2015 92 £53.80 (2015) Hedonism The Agosta family bought this estate in 2011 and have restored the traditional palmento gravity-fed winery. Comes from bush vines 80-100 years old. It’s wonderfully perfumed, showing precise and elegant red fruits. Fresh and sleek, delicate too, yet has firm tannic support, finishing spicy and long. Drink 2019-2026 Alc 14% Alta Mora, Etna Rosso 2016 91 £17.77-£21.80 Eurowines,…

THIS MONTH’S PANEL TASTINGS Blanc de blancs sparkling & Rosso di Montalcino Steven Spurrier’s fine wine world Our consultant editor and 2017 Decanter Hall of Fame recipient picks fine wines to drink now and to lay down, all priced at £25 and above Weekday wines By Tina Gellie Want something more adventurous in your midweek wine selection but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? We’ve found 25 exciting wines to try for £25 or under Blanc de blancs sparkling wines 89 wines tasted Discover a selection of top fizz, from England, Spain, Italy and South Africa to Champagne and beyond Rosso di Montalcino 93 wines tasted Find some gems for your cellar as quality winemaking shines through in the challenging 2017 vintage Expert’s Choice: English Bacchus 2018 By Susie…

Weekday wines Looking to try something different or adventurous, but don’t want to make an expensive mistake? Decanter’s associate editor Tina Gellie has done the hard work for you, picking out 25 exciting and accessible wines available in the UK for £25 or less Les Pionniers, Champagne, France 91 £ 18.99 Co-op The Co-op’s multi-awarded own-brand Champagne, made by Piper-Heidsieck, is always a reliable buy. This latest non-vintage release (with 60% Pinot Noir) has the excellent dry, sunny, ripe 2015 vintage as its base wine and it shows in the rich apple fruit, biscuity notes and juicy acidity. Alc 12% Jim Barry, The Lodge Hill Riesling, Clare Valley, South Australia 2018 92 £11-£12.99 Co-op, Majestic A quintessential Clare Valley Riesling: concentrated yet vibrant lime cordial, white blossom and fresh…

PANEL TASTING The verdict It wasn’t all about Chardonnay, and our judges relished the wide range of styles and fruit characters on show, awarding high scores across the board. Simon Field MW reports It was a very positive set of results, though it’s fair to point out that the majority of the wines tasted were from Europe, with only five in total from US and Australia combined and none from that stalwart of traditionally made fizz, Tasmania. A shame, as where there was healthy New World representation, ie South Africa, more than half the submissions (four of seven) scored 90pts or more. And did Champagne dominate as some may have expected? Well, yes and no. Yes, in the sense that all but two of the nine wines which scored an…

PANEL TASTING The verdict True to expectations, these 2016 and 2017 Rossos showed distinct differences in vintage character, offering plenty of enjoyable and affordable drinking, says Susan Hulme MW Of the 93 Rosso di Montalcino wines assessed in this panel tasting, the quality was very good, with 87% rated at Recommended or above, and all three of the judges remarkably consistent in scoring. There were few dramatic ups and downs, with just a single wine achieving an Outstanding rating – though 21 others scored 90 points or more. The 76 wines from the 2017 vintage were good quality, if not great – all but one of the nine wines at 91pts and 92pts were 2017s – which is what I would have expected from this challenging vintage. If vintage variation…

Lisboa, Portugal If you love an opportunity to taste rare, small-production wines of almost mythical status, without paying through the nose, book yourself a trip to the Portuguese capital and its Lisboa wine region, says Sarah Ahmed Photograph: SeanPavonePhoto/Getty Images According to the Portuguese actress and fadista Amália Rodrigues: ‘In a Portuguese home, it’s good to have bread and wine on the table. And if someone humbly knocks at the door, we invite them to join us.’ The tourism boom means more people are now knocking on Portugal’s door than the 10.3 million who live there. In 2018, there were 12.8 million foreign visitors, drawn by the country’s famously warm, generous hospitality. Sunny in climate and spirit, Lisbon, Portugal’s vibrant, characterful capital, leads the charge, and its namesake wine region…

MY ROME Carla Capalbo My Rome There’s no shortage of things to do and see in the Eternal City. But where best to recharge your batteries? Carla Capalbo reveals her top spots to eat and drink like the locals in Italy’s capital ROME NEVER LOSES its exoticism, especially when you come from northern Europe. Jasmine, citrus blossom (the Italians call their perfume zagara) and pine perfume the air, along with whatever the nonnas are cooking for lunch. Roman windows are open most of the year! Rome’s beloved amatriciana and carbonara sauces, its roast lamb (called abbacchio) sauced with rosemary and anchovies, and its stuffed artichokes and other seasonal greens all make for colourful, hearty meals that cry out for equally characterful wines to go with them. Lazio’s wine…

READERS’ QUERIES Notes & Queries Each month our experts answer readers’ wine queries and share their knowledge Using up old rosé I have some remaining bottles of a 2016 Languedoc rosé that is still okay to drink but starting to lose its original fruity freshness. So I can get through it quickly, can you suggest any interesting ways I could make use of it? Philip Galbraith, by email Fiona Beckett replies: Rosé thrives on its freshness, but so long as it’s actually still drinkable it should be fine in any dish for which you’d normally reach for a glass of white wine – a light dish of sautéed chicken for example, or, even better, rabbit. You could also use it to poach fruit such as peaches or apricots, with sugar…