Indholdsfortegnelse for Summer 2026 - Issue 61 i REVOLUTION WATCH

In The Godfather, we hear his voice before we see his face. The words he says encapsulate the entire meaning of the film, delivered with a poetic economy that is almost Zen-like. I’m not talking about Don Corleone, the film’s titular character, but Amerigo Bonasera, the undertaker and immigrant, the outsider made good. He says, “I believe in America. America has made my fortune.” And with that, he expresses the pure essence of James Truslow Adams’ essay “The American Dream,” in which he explains, “It is not a dream of motor cars and high wages merely, but a dream of social order in which each man and each woman shall be able to attain to the fullest stature of which they are innately capable, and be recognized by others for…

A longside Big Ben, the jet engine, afternoon tea and fictional boy wizards, actor Michael Caine ranks as one of Britain’s greatest exports. In a career spanning seven decades, he’s appeared in over 130 films, including standouts like Zulu (1964), The Ipcress File (1965), The Italian Job (1969), and more recently, his frequent collaborations with critically-acclaimed director, Christopher Nolan. In terms of formal accolades, his achievements include two Academy Awards, a Bafta and three Golden Globes, as well as a knighthood in 2000. Establishing his career in the late 1950s and early 1960s, his cockney accent and easy charm made Caine the perfect poster boy for Swinging Sixties cool, while he personified the social mobility and newfound freedoms that the U.K.’s postwar mood afforded. Caine’s personal style of thick-framed glasses…

The BR-03 Diver has introduced a new model — this time in a handsome bronze and black livery that’s limited to 999 pieces. It’s the eighth in the Bronze Diver series that has been hitting the right notes for the past eight years, and may possibly be the bestlooking one of them yet. The new BR-03 Diver Black Bronze bears the emblematic Bell & Ross design codes proudly: the familiar circle within a square, here heightened by the striking color contrast. The black-polished ceramic ring and glossy black-lacquered dial pop against the golden bronze bezel and case that will develop a lovely patina over time. Bell & Ross has used this black-and-bronze colorway elsewhere such as in 2019’s BR V2-94 Bellytanker Bronze, but with the BR-03 Diver Bronze series it…

Piaget’s Limelight Gala has never been what one would describe as a discreet timekeeper. Since its inception, it has served as a high-society talisman, a jewelry watch with a reputation for headlining the legendary parties and galas of the 1970s. Worn by “Piaget Society,” the international vanguard of artists and celebrities that surrounded Yves Piaget, the watch became the definitive accessory for a jet-set generation that demanded both aesthetic excellence and technical precision. The mythology of the Gala is anchored to 1973, when the maison showcased a radical new ladies’ timepiece designed by Jean-Claude Gueit at the Gstaad Palace. Coming just four years after the groundbreaking 21st Century Collection, the watch redefined the jewelry-watch category. Its silhouette was built on “controlled disruption”: an oval case framed by stones that appeared…

When Vacheron Constantin launched the Overseas Tourbillon in steel some seven years ago, it stood out as a compelling proposition. It is not every day that a tourbillon regulator appears in a sports watch, and the use of a non-precious metal case and bracelet made it a more accessible option within the brand’s collection and among its peers. That first edition, however, followed a familiar formula: a blue dial paired with a steel case. A few years later, the watch was updated with a titanium case, lending it a more contemporary edge. Now, something far more unexpected has arrived. Vacheron Constantin has introduced a bold, youthful dial rendered in deep red, resulting in what is arguably the most striking iteration of the Overseas Tourbillon to date. For Vacheron Constantin, a…

There are collaborations that feel as though they were cooked up by committee, and then there are those that land and immediately make sense. Citizen’s first Tsuyosa collaboration with seconde/seconde/is very much the latter. On paper, the pairing of a democratic Japanese sports watch and Romaric André’s mischievous, concept-driven design language might seem unlikely. In the metal, it is spot on. The Tsuyosa has already earned its place as one of Citizen’s strongest recent watches: accessible, mechanical, easy on the eye and completely wearable. With that in mind, seconde/seconde/has resisted the urge to overcomplicate things. Instead, he has taken the watch’s natural good looks and given them a sharp twist — literally. Taking the name Tsuyosa, which translates as strength or power, as his starting point, André turns the whole…

The jumping hour is a complication that comes and goes, surfacing briefly, disappearing and then reappearing when least expected — 2025 being a case in point with examples from Cartier, Louis Vuitton and Bremont among others. At Audemars Piguet, however, it has never quite followed that pattern. It shows up instead as part of a longer stretch of work. In the early decades of the 20th century, there was no fixed idea of what a wristwatch should look like or how it should be read. Case shapes shifted and displays were still open to experimentation. What now feels standard — a round case and two hands turning from the center — had not yet closed off other possibilities. In that context, the jumping hour wasn’t an oddity so much as…

At the pinnacle of haute horlogerie is an underground community consisting of fastidious, secretive, anonymous, well-informed and, by necessity, well-heeled connoisseurs of impeccable taste. Call them “the supercollectors.” They seek out watches for which one quality is universal, beyond the mandatory, innate horological excellence: exclusivity. One is unable to put a value on sheer rarity, but for these aficionados, watchmakers whose annual production barely enters double digits have an irresistible appeal, which is lost when the numbers go beyond that. There’s no fear of this happening with the timepieces of Aaron Becsei. There is almost a cult feel to Becsei, whose creations until this year’s official launch bore the name “Bexei.” The 20 or so he has produced over the past 18 years, each a unique piece designed to suit…

Six Grand Prix d’Horlogerie awards and, since 2006, a grand total of more than 70 prestigious accolades from around the world. The past few years, in particular, have been a glorious run for Bovet, with the release of the stunning Récital 28 Prowess 1 and the practical and intuitive Récital 30. Perhaps he had already envisioned all of this when he first took the reins of the House of Bovet, but what is clear is that Pascal Raffy is central to the success of Bovet today. The story of Raffy and Bovet started in 2001. While the Quartz Crisis had become a distant memory by then, the watch industry was still in the messy throes of consolidation and rebuilding. Independent watchmakers had niche, not cult followings, and vertical integration was…

In 2026, the Overseas celebrates three decades of an idea as simple as it is powerful: luxury can also be boundless. Within a maison founded in 1755, where tradition is an everyday language, Overseas embodies the desire to look to the future without renouncing the past. It stands as the contemporary expression of the sophisticated traveler — attentive to technology, and drawn equally to aesthetics and experience. The roots of the Overseas trace back to 1977, when Vacheron Constantin unveiled the iconic 222, designed by Jörg Hysek. At the height of the steel sport-chic watch boom, the piece marked a turning point for the maison. Its integrated case, fluid bracelet, and refined yet relaxed character opened a new chapter for Geneva’s fine watchmaking tradition. Two decades later, that spirit evolved…

When Abraham-Louis Breguet established his workshop in Paris in 1775, he did so in a city still confident in its cultural authority and intellectual purpose. Paris was both a center of courtly life and a place of sustained scientific enquiry, where observatories, academies and salons encouraged research into astronomy, navigation and the accurate measurement of time. Instrument makers and horologists worked within the same culture as mathematicians and scientists, responding to practical problems with ingenuity and precision. The demands of navigation, commerce and naval power gave urgency to questions of precision timekeeping more broadly, even as Parisian horology remained primarily oriented toward portable watches made for an elite clientele. All this unfolded within an aristocratic order that still appeared stable, despite mounting economic and social pressures. Breguet was a rare…

There is a moment each year when the watch industry briefly converges on Geneva and takes stock of itself. Watches and Wonders has become that moment. For a few days, the conversations that normally unfold across workshops, boardrooms and collector communities around the world take place within a few square kilometers. What was once a relatively contained trade gathering has evolved into something far broader. Retailers, journalists and the increasingly knowledgeable public now move through the same halls, examining the same watches and forming their own conclusions about where watchmaking is heading next. The week brings the headline launches from the industry’s most recognizable houses, but what continues to make the fair compelling is the diversity of watchmaking surrounding them. The global groups, the established maisons, the independent ateliers and…

Time to Watches returns for its fifth year during Geneva Watch Week in April 2026, once again anchored at Villa Sarasin. Just a minute’s walk away from Palexpo, Time to Watches has firmly established itself as one of the week’s key rendezvous points, leaning further into what has always set it apart: independent watchmaking and real conversations, in a relaxed and comfortable setting. This year’s event evolves into a watchmaking “Village,” unfolding across a network of spaces beyond the Villa. These include the Lodge, Annex, Cellar, Garden and Brand Pavilions, creating a more fluid, curated journey. It’s a larger footprint, but the intent is still focused on celebrating the independent community of today and tomorrow in an environment that feels open and unhurried. With over 85 exhibiting brands, ranging from…

If you follow the independent end of the watch world, you already know the microbrand playbook: a strong design hook, a familiar movement, a tightly priced pre-order window and a limited run that sells out on story as much as build. Micromilspec sits close to that scene but comes at it from a different angle. The Oslo-based brand (founded in 2019) has built its name around made-to-order mechanical watches developed for military units, first responders and specialist clients, with manufacturing and assembly handled through Swiss partners. The T5 is a clean expression of that approach. It brings a Grade 5 titanium case and bracelet into the Milgraph lineup and also nods to Micromilspec’s earliest work with the Field Testing Unit (FTU), the prototype created for military evaluation that later opened…

Making a surprise February debut on the wrist of Ed Sheeran, IWC has introduced a blacked-out take on the popular Portugieser Chronograph. From its earliest genesis in the 1930s, through to its more formal introduction in 1993, the Portugieser has been a watch with a personality which, for all its versatility, veers towards the dressier end of the spectrum. But the new Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium takes the watch well and truly to the dark side. Once you recover from the initial dissonance of seeing the familiar silhouette in black, this watch makes perfect sense. Ceratanium is an IWC-exclusive material: a ceramized titanium, not only combining the numerous benefits of ceramic with those of titanium, but also allowing the brand to create black watches without a coating. Ceratanium has been a…

The Seamaster has always been a chameleon model for Omega, transitioning from a waterproof dress watch in the 1940s to a genuine diving timepiece by the late 1950s. And, while it is most famously associated with the depths of the ocean, this Milano Cortina 2026 edition proves the silhouette is just as comfortable at a high-altitude finish line. By opting for Grade 5 titanium and white ceramic, Omega has stripped away the typical nautical feel of the 300M, replacing it with a stark, alpine aesthetic that mirrors the technical intensity of the Winter Paralympics. The Winter Paralympics are events of razorthin margins, where a fraction of a second is the difference between a podium finish and a long flight home. Since 1992, Omega has been the brand standing at that…

Louis Vuitton’s Escale collection began with traditional world timers that showed multiple time zones at once through rotating city disks. These early pieces highlighted the brand’s creativity. They featured vibrant hand-painted dials with city abbreviations taken from vintage Louis Vuitton travel trunks. The collection has leveled up as Louis Vuitton’s watchmaking division ventured into technical territory. The La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton team headed by Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini didn’t just improve existing worldtime mechanisms — they tackled the biggest challenges in traditional GMT watches. Traditional GMT watches let users adjust only the hour hand when switching time zones. Travelers had to settle for approximate time readings in regions with non-standard offsets. The Twin Zone concept solves this by allowing independent adjustment of the minute hand. Louis Vuitton…

Most of what passes for innovation in watchmaking is cumulative, the result of a series of small, well-aimed steps rather than dramatic leaps. Progress, in other words, is usually a matter of better answers to familiar questions. But every so often, a far rarer event occurs — a shift so fundamental that it changes the very nature of the questions themselves. Thomas Kuhn called these “paradigm shifts” in the history of science, and they are just as rare in horology. There are moments when watchmaking stops solving problems it already understands and starts confronting ones it had never considered. Spring Drive has become so entrenched in modern watchmaking that it’s easy to forget that it came from that rare category. It was not a more efficient escapement, or a more…

Alexander Barter Alexander Barter is a renowned watch consultant and researcher with more than 25 years of experience as an adviser to both auction houses and private collectors. He has written two books, 500 Years, 100 Watches and The Watch: A Twentieth Century Style History, both published by Prestel. In 2025 he wrote the catalog for Sotheby’s A Celebration of Breguet’s 250th Anniversary. Stephen Landau Stephen Landau is a New York based photographer with over 25 years experience in product, automotive and lifestyle photography. Known for his attention to detail and lighting, Stephen focuses on capturing the essence of the shot needed. He is also a published writer, fine artist, tinkerer and lifetime learner who is never afraid to try something new. Ken Kessler Ken Kessler has been involved with…

Let’s start at the beginning. What is Leica trying to become in watchmaking that the industry doesn’t already have? Let me start with a historical anecdote. Ernst Leitz I, the founder of Leica, traveled to Neuchâtel in Switzerland when he was around 20 years old. As you know, that region is essentially the heartland of watchmaking. He joined the watchmaker Matthäus Hipp and trained there for almost two years. During that time he learned precision engineering and the discipline required to manufacture highly accurate mechanical instruments. When he returned to his home in Wetzlar, Germany that knowledge became part of Leica’s DNA. I am quite convinced that without that early exposure to watchmaking Leica would not be where it is today. If you look at the Leica M6 camera, you…

Louis Vuitton no longer needs to argue its place in high watchmaking. It simply needs to unveil a piece like the Escale au Mont Fuji, and the point is made. In the way Revolution has consistently framed the maison’s recent ascent, this is not a fashion house dabbling in timepieces, but a fully formed manufacture expressing its own identity through serious horology, unique design, and a very modern interpretation of métiers d’art. Like the best pieces that have come from LV in recent times, this new automaton pocket watch feels like a statement on the future of the watchmaking division of the house. What makes the Escale au Mont Fuji so noteworthy is that it combines everything Louis Vuitton now does so well. It transforms the theme of travel into…

You can usually tell when a watch has settled into a brand’s identity. It stops being treated as a one-off success and starts being reworked from different angles — tightened up, pared back, pushed into new territory. That is where the Classic Worldtimer Manufacture now sits within the Frederique Constant lineup. Since its debut in 2012, it has grown from one of the brand’s rarer complications into something closer to a collection staple. The 2026 update makes that plain with a new movement, a smaller case, a cleaner dial, a bracelet option and a diamond-set version that never feels as though it has strayed too far from the original idea. Frederique Constant has kept the one feature that always made this Worldtimer easy to live with: everything is adjusted through…

Ressence, the brainchild of Belgian designer Benoît Mintiens, has evolved plenty in the 16 years since its 2010 founding. But one thing that hasn’t changed is the brand’s commitment to telling time differently — via its patented mechanism known as the Ressence Orbital Convex System (ROCS). This system replaces hands with a series of disks with indicators, for a time display that offers a futuristic interpretation of traditional watchmaking. The 39mm Ressence Type 9 IKE is the newest addition to the Type 9 collection, which debuted in 2024, and stands out not just because it is the most compact expression of Ressence’s craft, but also the most accessible. The smooth titanium case, with its crownless design (the caseback serves as the setting and winding mechanism), is incredibly tactile and blends…

Longines has never been a brand for those who want a loud, “look-at-me” timepiece and, since 2007, the HydroConquest has sat quietly in the catalog as the brand’s primary aquatic workhorse. It wasn’t born as a revolutionary showpiece, instead it was a logical evolution of the 1954 Conquest — Longines’ first collection to receive trademark protection in Switzerland in 1954. For years, the HydroConquest was the sensible choice: 300 meters of water resistance, a reliable movement, and a price point that didn’t make your eyes water. But “sensible” sometimes needs a shake-up and, over the years, the line has evolved in measured steps rather than shockinducing redesigns. A major refresh arrived in 2018 when Longines refined the case proportions and introduced ceramic bezels to the collection. The next milestone came…

At the end of last year, Breguet concluded its 250th anniversary celebrations with what was not only the most technically ambitious watch of the commemorative series, but also the year’s most significant innovation — the Expérimentale 1. The watch is fitted with a magnetic constant-force escapement running at 10Hz inside a one-minute tourbillon and regulated to a maximum daily deviation of just ±1 second. Crucially, because impulse transmission is governed by fixed gradients of magnetic potential energy, the escapement is constant force by design and operates without friction. It essentially addresses, in a single stroke, two of the oldest and most persistent obstacles in watchmaking, making it a decisive advance in the long evolution of escapement design. The watch itself inaugurates a new series of timepieces conceived in the spirit…

On February 2, 2026, Louis Vuitton unveiled its latest collaboration with an independent watchmaking legend. This time, it was Denis Flageollet of De Bethune. What no one was expecting was that they decided not to create just a wristwatch, but the first modern sympathetic clock and watch in horological history as a tribute to Louis Vuitton’s roots in travel. The result is absolutely sublime. If Jean Arnault has an office in Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps, I don’t think I’ve ever been there. He probably doesn’t because he seems to be at his happiest when immersed in the world of the watchmakers, craftspeople and micro-engineers who are the source of the creativity that runs through his manufacture. I remember, almost half a decade ago, walking out of a cafeteria…

They are young, independent and unequivocally one of, if not the brightest, stars in the watch world today. Meet Fam Al Hut, the winner of our Rising Star Award. The one-year-old Chinese brand was founded by Chongqing natives Lukas Young and Xinyan Dai, both young entrepreneurs with a shared love for watches. According to Young, he started the brand <pending quote from brand>. And that is precisely what they accomplished with their debut piece, the Möbius Mark 1, which packs in plenty of horological firepower within what is a relatively compact space — and within such a short time. From the get-go, Fam Al Hut’s Möbius Mark 1 stands out. Its pill-shaped case eschews conventional luxury watch aesthetics and measures just 42.2mm by 24.3mm, with a height of 12.9mm —…

“Modest.” This is how Philippe Stern, former President of Patek Philippe, described demand for the Nautilus at its launch in 1976. Many would consider this an overstatement. When Patek Philippe presented a large sports watch to a world that expected ultra thin gold timepieces, the reaction was closer to bewilderment than enthusiasm. The Nautilus was provocative: not only was a stainless steel watch being presented as the embodiment of luxury, it also broke established rules in design and construction. Retailers didn’t want it. The press didn’t cover it. Today, its look and concept are instantly familiar, almost self-evident. In 1976, this was not at all the case. What followed was a journey of perseverance, quiet refinement and the occasional bold bet — a near halfcentury arc in which a watch…

WHAT STARTED YOUR LOVE OF WATCHES? It started with a vintage chronograph made for the Marine Nationale: a Breguet Type XX from 1962. Not a watch I could afford, but its story fascinated me. That was in 2008. I learned more by reading form posts, old websites and books. This curiosity evolved as I grew older and I taught myself how to assemble watches and craft dials. I wanted to make a world timer but completely failed — I was too uneducated on why a micron of precision is important. WHEN AND HOW DID YOU START CONNECTING WITH OTHER COLLECTORS? While living in China, I co-founded the Shanghai Watch Idiot Savants (that later became RedBar Shanghai) with a fellow collector, Lyndon. I realized that the passion for watches is about…