DECODING THE FRENETIC, densely populated metropolis of Mumbai requires a savvy guide like Satender Tomar, head of a fleet of 35 concierge-like butlers at the luxurious new St. Regis Mumbai. When Tomar's guests want to get an insider's look at the city, previously called Bombay, here's where he sends them.
Best new restaurant: The owners of Henry Tham's, a defunct, much-beloved Mumbai bar that was known for its world-music nights, just opened Koko in the Kamala Mills area. An atmospheric, gray, stone-walled space, the restaurant specializes in Asian gastropub dishes like glazed spareribs, scallop dumplings, and crispy pork belly.
Emerging neighborhood: Located on the very tip of the tiny peninsula that makes up Mumbai, Colaba is a diverse and dynamic section of the city, filled with bustling markets, hipster art…