Inhoudsopgave van April 2016 - Esquire UK

Emma Watson Why would a movie star and UN Women Global Goodwill Ambassador want to use Esquire as a forum for a discussion of feminism? “Well, that’s part of the reason I pushed so hard for it,” she says. “So often, feminist issues are being discussed in a room labelled for women, with women, talking about women’s issues, focusing on women. But this is an issue that affects everyone. Everyone.” Read more, from page 124. Caitlin Moran The Times columnist and bestselling author writes for our section on gender, fronted by Emma Watson and Tom Hanks. “I was only too happy to do my bit in helping Hermione and Big from Big bring about equality in the world,” she says. “And I was thrilled to launch a joyful rant about…

Dear Uncle Dysfunctional, I’ve got this problem. A few years ago, I was working for the UN in refugee camps in the Middle East and there was a girl. She was on her own, desperate and pretty. And she was great, it was great. I helped a bit. Made sure she was safe. Got her some medical treatment, a coat, and one thing led to another and we started having a fling. It was sort of secret. Because, you know, they don’t really approve of humping the patients. This was different. Really. We were close. She was beautiful and gentle and understandably needy. I suppose if I’m honest, in retrospect, she had more invested in the relationship than I did. But we knew it was always going to be limited,…

ESQUIRE APPROVES Blue Japanese denim two-button blazer with accent piping and lapel stitching, £1,320, by Zegna zegna.com Milanese tailoring house Ermenegildo Zegna occupies a unique position in the Italian fashion landscape. Not only does the brand produce all its own fabrics in its North Italian mill (from wool produced by its own Australian sheep), it also manufactures all its own suits and ready-to-wear garments in-house — meaning that the clothes it produces are among the best in the world. Stands to reason then, that Zegna’s Su Misura (made-to-measure) tailoring service is also pretty special. Though the label has been producing made-to-measure suits for years, for 2016 Zegna introduces its made-tomeasure casual luxury project. For the first time ever, Zegna customers are able to have a range of casual garments —…

ESQUIRE APPROVES Overseas Date Ultra-Thin Perpetual Calendar watch, £71,000 vacheron-constantin.com Founded in Geneva in 1755, Vacheron Constantin is not only one of the oldest watch manufacturers in the world; it is also one of the most highly respected. The brand is best known for its remarkable Métiers d’Art watches and super high-complication pieces (in 2015, Vacheron Constantin unveiled the Reference 57260, the most complicated watch ever made), but this year it’s the new Overseas that has everyone talking. Designed with global travellers in mind, the latest Overseas is Vacheron Constantin’s most wearable timepiece in years. Featuring coveted Hallmark of Geneva certification and containing an in-house self-winding movement, the watch is understatedly stylish and perfect for day-to-day wear. Though the Overseas Date is available in steel (more accessibly priced at £15,600),…

We’ve evolved into a nation of pill poppers. Dazzled by slick marketing campaigns and unrealistic promises, we’ve become increasingly reliant on all-in-one wonder supplements. But if you eat a balanced diet, chances are your daily intake of vitamins is adequate so you only need to supplement what your body is lacking. To save you the hassle of your own clinical trials, here’s an edit of the best natural supplements on the market. Best for muscle repair The sporting community has been an early adopter of magnesium supplements, as they promote sleep quality, muscle repair and increased performance. “Magnesium is required for energy production and bone mineralisation, and important for calcium uptake across cell membranes needed for nerve impulse conduction, muscle contraction, and cardio function,” says nutritionist Sarah Ann Macklin*. “Strenuous…

FILM / MUSIC / BOOKS / TELEVISION / ART Strings attached: Miles Kane and Alex Turner, aka The Last Shadow Puppets 1 Head, heart and soul brothers EIGHT YEARS OLDER, KANE AND TURNER REPRISE THEIR DOUBLE ACT On their second album as The Last Shadow Puppets, Miles Kane and Arctic Monkeys frontman Alex Turner are back with more of the same, only different. In 2008, the pair’s first album, The Age of the Understatement, found the two 22-year-old Northerners paying tribute to Sixties orchestral pop. Now, with the aptly named Everything You’ve Come to Expect, the two 30-year-old adopted Los Angelenos are still nodding at John Barry and Scott Walker, but there are also echoes of Beck, The Style Council and even yacht rock. The latter style seems to have…

By Alex Bilmes* and Emma Watson** LAST SUMMER, OVER TEA FOR TWO in a London hotel — because that, readers, is how we rock ’n’ roll — we began a conversation about women and men, our differences and similarities, what unites us and what divides us. We talked about friends and families, about situations at work and at home, and about how fevered and fraught the debate around gender equality has become. * Editor-in-Chief, Esquire ** Emma Watson It is, of course, one of the great conversations a woman and a man can have — well, OK, maybe not, but it beats the old do-youcome-here-often? routine — and we’ve been having it, in one form or another, since we were cavewomen and cavemen. (Cavepeople? Cavepersons? Gosh, it’s a minefield, isn’t…

Ally Any non-minority person who supports a minority community. Aromantic A person with no interest in forming romantic relationships, and experiences little to no romantic attraction to others. Asexual Those who experience no (or low-level) sexual attraction to others. Bi-gender A person who identifies with both genders (and, sometimes, a third) and fluctuates between traditional “male” and “female” identities. Biological sex The chromosomal, hormonal and anatomical characteristics that lead one to be medically classified as male, female or intersex. Gender expression The external display of dress and behaviour, be it masculine or feminine, that one chooses to present to the world. Gender fluid Someone who identifies with both traditional genders, and whose identity fluctuates. Gender identity A person’s internal perception of their gender. Genderqueer A term for all gender non-conforming…

YOU REMEMBER THE RAPE CASE a couple of months ago? A student in some fashionable Northern university accused of raping a drunk girl. The good-looking boy with floppy hair. Middle-class posho, with all the assumptions that go with it. No need to say his name out loud any more. It’ll be on the internet forever, on every Google search an employer ever makes. He was found innocent. Well, no one’s innocent. Not even the innocent. Students don’t want the nuts and bolts of their late-night photo flirts and tequila chat-up texts read out in court by a middle-aged woman dressed like a crow with a joke wig, in front of the press and their parents. So he got off. If not lightly, then without having to do time. But you…

Smell better Bottega Veneta’s new eau de cologne is pepped-up by Indonesian patchouli, Italian bergamot and Siberian pine accord. Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Essence Aromatique, £52 for 50ml, bottegaveneta.com Look better J Crew’s debut range of sunglasses evokes timeless styling. Our pick from the collection are these black frames, fit for Leo on his summer holiday. From £98, jcrew.com Read better The Esquire Newsletter delivers the latest news and updates from the Esquire team fresh to your inbox every week. And it’s free! So do what it says below, now: Text ESQUIRE followed by your email address to 84499 *…

The world of menswear, with its penchant for navy blue suits, indigo jeans and sturdy brown lace-ups, is one that rarely surprises. When it comes to shirts, for instance, few brands are brave enough to veer away from long-sleeved poplin styles with cut-away collars. For spring/summer 2016, however, things have taken a turn for the, well, Hawaiian. Right now, if the likes of Coach, Burberry and Louis Vuitton are anything to go by, it’s all about a short-sleeved cotton or silk shirt topped off with a Fifties-inspired camp collar. Part of a tangible revival of the style from that decade (wide-leg trousers, Converse high-tops and slicked-back hairdos are everywhere at the moment), these shirts are loud, proud and boxily cut. At left is our pick of the best. Rock the…

You know what a hot hatch is. A runaround your mother might drive, with spoilers stuck on and an ability to squeal its way around town centres. Well, things have moved on. Welcome to the “mega hatch”; the hot hatch’s steroid-taking older brother, back after a spell inside and packing some unresolved aggression issues. It’s a segment of the car industry for which 300+ horsepower is the entry requirement and the phrase “shit off a shovel” an understatement. And the new Ford Focus RS is set on being the mega hatch to rule them all. The RS badge, with its roots in rallying, has been the watchword for high-performance Fords since the Sixties and this turbocharged version of the Focus is one of the most eagerly anticipated in its history.…

Those of you not in training for next month’s London Marathon may instead find inspiration in our guide to the world’s best 26.2-mile urban runs. Esquire PT Harry Jameson discusses the merits of each, the kit you’ll need, and where to eat, drink and stay when you’re there. The running bit is down to you, though. Sorry. London 24 April, 2016 Fastest time: 2:04:29, Wilson Kipsang Kiprotich (2014) Why run it: You get a fine vista of the greatest city in the world, and you’ll probably have loads of mates on the sidelines. Plus you won’t have to stuff your charity sumo suit into your hand luggage. Characteristics: The runners in fancy dress make the event one of the world’s best, so don’t take it too seriously. Essential kit: If…

Fifties No.13 By Myles Davies, 45 Jermyn St A boozy ice cream float best served with a corndog Ingredients • 50ml pineapple and honey syrup (equal parts pineapple, honey, caster sugar, water) • 5ml Maraschino • 125ml soda water • 2 scoops strawberry ice cream • Dehydrated black olive Method To make the syrup, put the pineapple, honey, caster sugar and water into a pan on a low heat for two hours, then blend and pass through a fine sieve. Mix the syrup, gin and Maraschino in a shaker and add a splash of cold soda. Scoop the ice cream into a cold glass and pour on the mixture. Add a spoon and straw, and use a fine grater to grind the olive over the top. 45jermynst.com Sixties Buttered Old…

It’s almost summer (almost), meaning it’s time to start thinking about your warm weather footwear. Last season was all about sneakers and the season before espadrilles, but in 2016 it’s the turn of the classic loafer. This, the Leo Clamp loafer by Italian brand Tod’s, is our pick of the bunch. With an appealing Eighties vibe, the shoe features Tod’s new Leo Clamp — a geometric metal tongue bar emblazoned with the Tod’s logo — produced using traditional hot metal casting. It’s also available fitted to Tod’s classic Gommino driving shoes as well as its slick moccasins. Wear the loafers with a pair of slim white chinos and a pale blue grandad shirt for the ultimate understated “summer in Sicily” look. tods.com…

01 Brioni The season’s most visionary sunglasses Brioni’s S/S ’16 eyewear collection is small but exceptional. There’s a square frame, a doublebridged style, the classic Phantos frame, and an aviator (not shown). Looks aside, they’re pretty well made, too. That’s not normal handmade Italian acetate you’re looking at, that’s eco-friendly bio-acetate from cotton flowers and wood fibres. And those lenses? They’re photochromic, so they selfadjust to the light to grant the sharpest vision possible. 02 Troubadour Young luggage label delivers new designs British luggage maker Troubadour was founded by two former bankers in 2011, and has gone from strength to strength ever since. Now branching out from its leather-only ethos, the brand’s spring/summer 2016 collection is made up of a series of pieces that fuse fabrics such as open weave…

‘Ugly are hornless bulls, a field without grass is an eyesore, so is a tree without leaves, so is a head without hair.’ Ovid, Ars Amatoria (c. 2AD) Nora Ephron once said height is to men what breasts are to women. “I disagree,” responded American magazine editor Art Cooper. “I think it’s baldness. I think men are more concerned about their hair than anything else. No one wants to be bald. They don’t want to look like Sean Connery unless they can have all the rest that goes with being Sean Connery.” Cooper was speaking in 1986. Thirty years later, we have the stats to back him up. According to Google, last year there were six per cent more searches for men’s hair than for women’s, something partly attributed to…

YOU MAY HAVE HEARD OF the man who appears on the cover of this issue of Esquire, alongside Emma Watson. Tom Hanks is one of the handful of above-the-title leading men to have dominated American cinema over the past four decades, a Hollywood star of the old school who has never allowed his celebrity to overshadow his work, only to allow him the opportunity to make that work more varied and more visible. The star of films as diverse and iconic as Splash, Big, Sleepless in Seattle, Apollo 13, Toy Story, Saving Private Ryan, Cast Away, The Da Vinci Code, Captain Phillips and Bridge of Spies, the California native has five times been nominated for the best actor Oscar — and won it twice, for Forrest Gump and Philadelphia. At…

50:50 at work Don’t stand for sexism If your friends are bantzing it up about a female colleague or sleazing a woman, call them on it. It’s the only way this stuff is going to change. Just make sure you don’t open with the line, “Not cool, bro.” Stop “manterrupting” In meetings, if you notice women getting talked over or interrupted, speak up (or shut up if it’s you doing the talking). Give them the space to make their point. Don’t employ and promote based on gender Women are promoted based on experience while men are promoted based on potential. “But what if she doesn’t have the experience?” How else is she going to get it? “But she might get pregnant!” Think about it for a moment — how else…

Bottega Veneta Grey cotton jacket, £1,280; grey cashmere Henley top, £940; grey cotton trousers, £505, all by Bottega Veneta Boss Grey cotton sweater, £120; white long-sleeved cotton top, £55, both by Boss. Sunglasses, model’s own Dolce & Gabbana Black silk monkey print pyjama shirt, £675; matching pyjama trousers, £575, both by Dolce & Gabbana Dior Homme White cotton shirt, £370; navy/camouflage tie, £125; white denim jeans, £450; navy/orange leather belt, £420, all by Dior Homme Gucci Green/silver bee print silk pyjama jacket, £1,290; green/silver bee print silk pyjama trousers, £600, both by Gucci Sandro White cotton mesh T-shirt, £135; pale blue washed denim jeans, £165, both by Sandro Paul Smith Grey wool double-breasted jacket, £800; white cotton smock top, £235; dark blue/green checked wool trousers, £305; black leather loafers, £320,…

Greyhours timepieces Greyhours is crafting luxury timepieces using Diamond-Like-Carbon (DLC) coating technology and anti-reflective blue sapphire glass. The watch is powered by a Swiss designed movement. Very limited stock available. Pre-order now at –30 per cent from £115. Visit greyhours.com. Delivery in April 2016. Ethical Coffee Company Recently introduced to the UK market, the first 100 per cent biodegradable capsule for *Nespresso® Machines. Using prime specialty quality coffee and a patented technology that, induces the capsule into a higher than normal pressure delivering a barista type of extraction, resulting in its characteristic “pop”. Developed by former Nespresso® CEO, Ethical Coffee Company is all about delivering the best espresso these machines can possibly achieve. Available at cofico.co.uk *Nespresso® is a trademark of a third party not related to Ethical Coffee Company…

A Aesop +44 20 7440 5650 aesop.com Alessi alessi.com/en Alfred Dunhill +44 20 7853 4440 dunhill.com Aram Store +44 20 7557 7557 aram.co.uk B Bang & Olufsen bang-olufsen.com Bell & Ross +44 20 7629 1558 bellross.com Ben Sherman +44 20 7437 2031 bensherman.com Boss +44 20 7734 7919 hugoboss.com Bottega Veneta +44 20 7838 9394 bottegaveneta.com Braun braun.com Brompton brompton.com Burberry +44 20 7806 8904 burberry.com Byredo byredo.com C Canali canali.com Christian Louboutin 0843 227 4322 christianlouboutin.com Coach +44 20 3141 8901 uk.coach.com Cutler and Gross cutlerandgross.com D Delfina Delettrez delfinadelettrez.com Dior dior.com Dior Homme +44 20 7172 0172 dior.com Dolce & Gabbana +44 20 7659 9000 dolceandgabbana.com E Ermenegildo Zegna Couture +44 20 7201 7000 zegna.com G Giorgio Armani +44 20 7235 6232 armani.com Globe-Trotter globe-trotter.com Gucci +44 20 7235 6707 gucci.com H H&M 0344 736 9000 hm.com Hugo…

I DON’T KNOW IF YOU’RE FAMILIAR with the idea of the celebrity Guest Editor. As far as I’m aware, it works something like this: a representative of a famous person with a product to promote — film, album, scented candle — approaches someone in my position with a proposal for a collaboration. Or, more likely, someone in my position (semi-horizontal, most of the time) approaches a famous person’s rep with a similar proposal. The pitch: rather than simply pose for the cover, the celebrity concerned will, for one issue only, take a leading creative role at the magazine, commissioning articles and shoots, corralling other notables into contributing, and demonstrating her (or his) down-to-earth good egg-ishness — getting the tea in, trying to fix the printer, moaning about the week’s soup…

I was going to highlight spring/summer’s trends this month but, as I write, it’s far too dank and grey for that. Instead, I will probably infuriate you with the mention of someone who I’m going to assume doesn’t feature too heavily in your life. Someone who, you may be surprised to hear, I believe has a rather snappy style. As a senior shop assistant at Mr Porter, I often get asked which men I consider to be the world’s most stylish. Oddly, considering it’s my job to notice how men dress, I always find it a hard one to answer. Most of the men who spring to mind are either dead or in their dotage. Look at the iconic selection that appeared on Esquire’s Style Heroes covers in January: Bowie,…

“My wife went on holiday to the Caribbean.” “Jamaica?” “No, she went of her own accord.” So goes the old gag, and after reading this paean to possibly the most interesting island in the West Indies we hope you’ll go of your own accord, too. So, what a’ gwaan? Well, rum, rastas and reggae are three reasons that Jamaica is irie, but there’s much, much more, including proper mountain ranges to explore, a strong James Bond connection and some fabulous places to eat. As Usain Bolt and Chris Gayle — two of the island’s finest sons — might say: Jamaica is “all fruits ripe”, meaning everything is tippity-top. Tom Barber is a founder of the awardwinning originaltravel.co.uk Stay A no brainer. GoldenEye was Ian Fleming’s retreat, where he wrote most…

People Style icon: David Bowie. Artist: Gerhard Richter. Musician: Bowie again. One of the few who made waves in the world through their own creativity and taste. Film star: Cary Grant or James Stewart. Muse: Bowie for style, Nelson Mandela for tolerance. Writer: Arthur Miller. Performing on Broadway in a play based in New York — A View From The Bridge — and written by a New Yorker has been a fascinating experience. Grooming Fragrance: Acqua di Parma Colonia. Toothpaste: Crest. Barber: Mr Cobbs, Cape Town. Shaving foam: Mr Cobbs (my barber’s own brand). Moisturiser: My friends at Dermalogica keep me supplied. Shower gel: Dr Bronner’s Pure-Castile Soap. I always buy it when in New York. Face wash: Dermalogica. Shampoo: Not really a concern for me. Travel Hometown: Islington, north…

The hotel Mandapa, Bali Bali may have built its reputation on pristine beaches and azure seas, but for its new resort, The Ritz-Carlton group has taken things inland. Nestled on the banks of the Ayung River in the middle of the island, Mandapa (Sanskrit for the entrance to a temple — of which there are plenty nearby) has 35 suites, and 25 villas with private pools, each designed to blend into the surrounding jungle. The real pull, though, might be the spa, which offers tailor-made wellness, detox and spiritual programmes — book in for a Borneo Lulur body scrub. Designed specifically for men, it’ll prepare your skin for all that sunbathing. From £290 per night, mandapareserve.com The restaurant 100 Wardour St, London The latest opening from restaurant group D&D, 100…

Hansen & Son CH25 easy chair The Hans J Wegnerdesigned CH25 was one of the first and subsequently most iconic sculptural chairs to be produced by Carl Hansen and Son. Dating from 1950, its lower seating position makes it more lounge-friendly than the firm’s equally famous CH24 wishbone chair. Each one takes over 20 hours to produce, 10 of which are spent weaving the 400m of paper cord that form the back and seat. This cord was originally used as a substitute for Danish beechwood due to post-WWII materials rationing. The CH25 is great for making stark interiors look soft, and densely textured environments look sleek. Alessi La Conica coffee maker This appliance took shape between 1980 and 1983 as part of Alessi’s “Tea & Coffee Piazza” project, for which…

HEY, I’M NOT GOING TO womansplain feminism to the readers of Esquire! That’s not happening on my watch! You’re sophisticated, 21st century men with a copy of the El Bulli cookbook, a timeless pair of investment brogues and a couple of Joni Mitchell albums — for when you want to sit in your leather armchair, and have a little, noble, necessary man-cry. You don’t need me lecturing you — because you’re not hanging out the back of a bus shouting “CLUNGE!” at a bunch of terrified 15-year-old girls. You’ve got sisters, mothers, lovers — female friends and colleagues — and you’ve never once gone up to any of them shouting, “Blimey! You don’t get many of those to the pahnd!” while honking on their breasts, in the manner of Sid…

A YEAR AGO, the UK introduced legislation that allowed working parents of newborn babies to share 12 months of parental leave. Previously, new fathers could take one or two weeks’ leave at their employer’s discretion, while working mothers were allowed 52 weeks, albeit on a sliding scale of pay that quickly flatlined at a statutory £139.58 a week — a figure that barely covers the Pampers and babygrow bills. But as of 5 April, 2015, employers were obliged to offer their staff the option to split the year with their partners. Its aims were admirable: to ease the expectations placed on working mothers, to help women crack the glass ceiling and to give a new generation of dads more time to bond with their babies. Another step towards 50–50 parenting,…

Look 01 Pale blue washed denim jacket, £50, by H&M White/black striped cotton T-shirt, £25, by Next Black cotton trousers, £25, by H&M Blue denim/black leather duffel bag, £620, by Jacob Cöhen White leather/suede trainers, £65, by Topman Stainless steel “Eternal Rebel” chronograph on mesh bracelet, £270, by Thomas Sabo Look 02 Navy padded bomber jacket, £55, by River Island Navy/white cotton polo shirt, £20, by River Island Blue pleated denim jeans, £38, by Topman Green/black patterned canvas holdall, £85, by Ben Sherman Grey canvas trainers , £40, by Jones Bootmaker Stainless steel Rotondo Guilloché Ultra Slim watch on brown leather strap, £195, by Tateossian London…

N° 57 £135 ray-ban.com Perhaps the world’s best-known eyewear brand, Ray-Ban has been producing superlative spectacles and sunglasses since the Thirties. The company’s astonishingly broad design portfolio began with the Aviator, and expanded over the decades to include icons such as the squared-off Wayfarer (made immortal by the likes of James Dean, Audrey Hepburn and Bob Dylan) and the Clubmaster. Now comes the Clubround — a hybrid of the latter (note the acetate brows) and the Round, two of Ray-Ban’s most popular recent models. Offered in a range of colourways (and in spectacle form), the Clubround is available across the UK and in Ray-Ban’s new New York store, the brand’s first ever flagship.…