Inhoudsopgave van June 2015 - Scale Auto

When we build a traditional hot rod model, we can quickly come to two conclusions: The hood is likely to remain in the box instead of on the model; and The engine will be a major focal point of the finished model. I’m going to demonstrate some basic engine detailing steps for one of the most popular hot rod engine choices: the first-generation Chrysler Hemi. I’ll include some paint-detailing, aftermarket hop-up parts, simulated chrome plating, ignition wiring, fuel lines, and a representation of the carburetor linkages. Although we’re using an early Chrysler Hemi here, all of these steps (other than the exact routing of the ignition wiring) would apply to any early OHV V-8 hot rod engine you choose to build. If you’ve never detailed a model car engine before,…

HIGHBOY Here we have a 1934 Ford body and frame shown in the typical fenderless “Highboy” configuration. The bottom of the body aligns with the top of the frame at the firewall (A) and the center of the rear fenderwell (B). This is the way most 1930s Fords would appear if you took the stock car and removed just the fenders. ANGLE CHANNEL The body has been lowered at the firewall so that it now sits flush with the bottom of the frame (C), rather than the top of the frame as in the previous photo. However, the body remains aligned with the top of the frame at the rear fenderwell (D). This results in a raked, downward alignment of the body toward the front, and is the basic principle…

“Oval-track racing is in my blood,” says this Hoosier modeler I grew up on the Indiana side of Chicago, in Hammond. At age 5, I went to my first race with my father and my uncles. Oval-track racing has been in my blood ever since. By 1961 I was buying all of the AMT 3-in-1 kits to build cars like the USAC stock cars I saw race. Drag cars were my main focus during the mid-1960s, as well as World War II aircraft. I was a photographer for Stock Car Racing from 1978 through 1984. I discovered Scale Auto in 1984, and entered my first contest that same year. I was amazed at the detail levels being achieved, and what was available in the aftermarket. Fred Cady’s clear decal film…

One tip regarding attaching a car body to a chassis was so just-plain-KOOL, we had to use at as our T.O.M. Rich Williams built an all-purpose body-spreading tool that’s a real jewel. The car body is placed upsidedown into the tool, where two aluminum angles can spread the body just enough to accommodate slipping in the chassis. We’ll let Rich take it from here: “This tool works well to install and remove the chassis from the body. The best thing is that you have complete control over the amount of spread. The two thin aluminum angles are covered with electrical tape to prevent scratching the paint. “I built the fixture while building a short-track car, where the front glass is glued in place from the inside. The chassis was a…

REVELL recently debuted its all-new 1967 Camaro SS. As part of its Special Edition line, it’s marketed as a 2-in-1 kit, with stock parts for a standard SS and a pseudo-racing version. The racing version isn’t a comprehensive variation; Revell has only added a different air cleaner, a simple roll bar, a set of Minilite-style racing wheels, and a large sheet of racing stripes, roundels, and sponsor decals. Although the stock wheels look reasonably accurate, the chrome-plated racing wheels look somewhat undersized under the Camaro. With fresh tooling, the parts are generally quite crisp and clean. Mold lines on the body are deceptively small; they’re hardly noticeable as they go over the roof and across the rear part of the C-pillars toward the corners of the rear fenders. The mold…

TEN YEARS AGO, a buddy at work brought me the AMT 1950 Coca Cola Pickup model kit, and asked me to build it for him. There was a catch, though: he did not want it built stock. He wanted me to make it into a pro-street-style build. They were still in style back then. Many projects and life in general got in the way, and the project kept getting put on hold. Luckily, he was a patient friend, because it took me those long ten years to get back to this project. This time it was different, though! Pro touring is as popular as ever, and it took little convincing to get my buddy on board with my new ideas: “Just do it the way you feel it needs to…

THIS IS not the sort of kit we typically feature in “Classic Kits.” It’s from an overseas kit manufacturer, and it’s from a later time period than we normally cover. But it could be one of the most important model kits of the last 30 years. The 1:1 “W126” generation of the Mercedes S-Class was introduced in 1979, and the highly desirable two-door hardtop 500SEC variant broke cover at the 1991 Frankfurt Motor Show. The V-8-powered 500SEC was produced through 1991, with a midcycle freshening in 1986; this kit represents the 1982-1985 variant of the prestigious aerodynamic coupe. In an era of generally dull automobiles, the 500SEC was a design inspiration. If there was ever a car of that decade worthy of Tamiya’s first full-detail 1/24 scale auto kit, this…

I love the old AMT kits with custom parts,” says Luke Karosi about this 1957 Chevy Bel Air. “ I wanted to build a mid-1960s-style street custom with a period-correct forward rake. Built it box-stock using the custom pieces in the kit. Paint is HOK Tangelo Pearl Orange with Testor’s One-Coat clear.” WANT TO SUBMIT A PHOTO? It’s easy! Visit our contributor submission Web site at www.contribute.kalmbach.com and follow the step-by-step guide. Be sure to provide all the necessary information and details about your model! Always wanted to build a belly tanker,” says Curt Raitz, “and I found a boatload of photos of the restored So-Cal Lakester to make building it a lot easier.” The engine is a Flathead. QUESTIONS? Send your Finish Line questions to SCALE AUTO, Finish Line…

1/24 SCALE Model T 1913 Roadster - American Passenger Car, No. 24001, $59.99. From ICM available from Squadron Products. Toyota Celica 1600 GT, No. 20265, $34.99. From Hasegawa USA. Back to the Future DeLorean, No. 011850, $38.99. From Aoshima, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. Nissan GT-R (R35) 2014 Model Pure Edition, No. 011324, $46.99. From Aoshima, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. Audi R8, No. 85-1690, $12.95. Blue SnapTite From Revell. Lamborghini Murcielago R-SV 2011 GT1 Zolder #38, No. 007143, $69.99. From Aoshima, available from Dragon Models USA Inc. 1938 Custom Ford van, No. HL114/12, $24.99. From Lindberg, available from Round 2. 1/24 DECAL SETS Rex White 1962 Chevy and 1937 Ford, No. 12006, $11.50. Gofer Racing Decals. For 1/24 and 1/25. From Mason Distributing Co.. Gauges and dashboards,…

FOR MORE THAN 50 years, the building blocks of hot rods and customs have been chopping, sectioning, and channeling. We’ve covered the basics of chopping and sectioning previously. We’ve also touched on channeling – lowering a body so that it sits flush with the bottom of the frame – and showed how it applies to the 1932 Ford (see References). Channeling 1932-and-earlier Ford hot rods is pretty basic and relatively easy to accomplish, but applying the same technique to mid-to-late 1930s Fords can be more challenging. This article will cover the fundamentals of channeling using AMT’s 1934 Ford Five Window Coupe kit. However, the basic approach will apply to any hot rod model, and is specifically applicable to 1933-1936 Ford bodies, and with some additional tweaks, possibly even 1937-1940 Ford…

1962 Corvette I love the older Corvettes! When Revell released this kit, I wanted to build it as a full-detail, but instead built it box-stock. I wanted to pay close attention to paint detail and to the body color, the engine colors, and the chassis colors. I tried to build this close to a factory-stock 1962 Corvette. I hope you enjoy looking at it as much as I enjoyed building it. Sponsored by www.dragonmodelsusa.com ABOUT JEFF MARSH I live in Morristown, Tennessee, and am a heavy equipment mechanic by trade. My father got me into building models at a young age. I build racing cars, motorcycles, street rods, and factory-stock. I build mostly full-detail models, with a box-stock build thrown in from time to time. All my friends are model…

Fujimi Team Lotus 97T Renault AYRTON SENNA is one of the biggest names to ever drive a Formula 1 car. His driving talent and success were second to none. Fujimi has seen fit to release a kit of Senna’s Lotus 97T that he drove to victory on a rainy day in Portugal in 1985. In typical Japanese kit style, the parts trees are bagged individually. Most are molded in black, and there are trees that are satin chrome-plated, plus a tree of translucent smoke parts. I was disappointed to notice that the windscreen in my kit was broken into two pieces inside the sealed bag. The tires are excellent renditions of Goodyear F1 rain tires. Even though they are not shown on the box art, Goodyear and Eagle transfers are…