Inhoudsopgave van August/September 2025 - Wanderlust

Following a three-year restoration project, Splendido, A Belmond Hotel (pictured) in Portofino, Italy, has finally reopened. A bona fide classic with a guest list of celebs dating back to the early 1900s, this 16th-century former Benedictine monastery makes the most of its location, perched on the hillside above the bay. belmond.com Argini Hotel, an 11-room boutique stay on the Greek island of Syros, is now open for its first full season. Set within a grand Neoclassical mansion, work to restore its 19th-century frescoes took seven years, and the building’s cisterns have even been turned into a wellness centre, complete with a hammam and pool. arginisyros.gr The all-suite Rosewood Mandarina is the latest jewel on Mexico’s Riviera Nayarit, a region known for its mix of white-sand beaches, mountains and lush flatlands.…

Readers get 10% off by using the code ‘Wandering’ on the Stanfords website (www.stanfords.co.uk). Wanderlust members can get 25% off. See p40 The World Within by Guy Stagg Simon & Schuster; £20 Stanfords Book of The Month for July Stagg delves into the lives of the painter David Jones and the philosophers Simone Weil and Ludwig Wittgenstein. Each went on retreat at some point – to a Welsh island, a French abbey and an Austrian monastery, respectively – to find their work and lives forever changed. Their stories beg the question: what could any of us achieve with a creative break? Small Earthquakes by Shafik Meghji C Hurst & Co Publishers; £25 Stanfords Book of the Month for August From cowboys and pirates to nitrate kings and wool barons, regular…

“Two wolves trotted along the valley just 15 metres from our van. A wildlife encounter I doubt any of us will forget” “People call it the wild heart of Italy because an incredible 30% of the Abruzzo region’s land is protected,” said Valario Reale, my guide for the day and the enterprise manager at nature restoration charity Rewilding Apennines. As I huddled inside a mountain cabin-turned-rewilding education centre in Bosco della Selva – a large chunk of land in the process of being returned to nature – ‘wild’ felt like exactly the right word. It was the first day of a six-day group trip with Exodus Adventure Travels, and although I was just two hours’ drive from Rome, city life already felt a world away. Rain and sun competed for…

To experience Ecuador’s true identity, you need to visit during one of its many festive periods. This country doesn’t celebrate in half measures, marking significant events with parades, parties, dancing, street food and fire… tonnes of it. During festivals, you’ll hear Andean pan flutes and smell guinea pigs roasting on the spit. And then there’s Ecuador’s love of bonfires, fireworks and airborne lanterns. The country’s fascination with fire stems from Andean Indigenous tradition, in which it symbolises renewal and transformation. The following are six holidays that offer a glimpse into Ecuador’s magnetic culture. Fiestas de Cuenca Because Ecuador didn’t achieve freedom from Spain all at once, it has three independence days (plus foundation date holidays), celebrating when each major city – Quito, Cuenca and Guayaquil – broke away from Spanish…

Discovered by chance in 1535, the Galápagos Islands were nick-named Las Encantadas (The Enchanted Isles) by Spanish seafarers. It was a name inspired by the mists that seemed to make them appear and vanish at will. But even to this day, this remote archipelago has the power to enchant. Lying on the equator, 1,000km west of mainland Ecuador, the Galápagos Islands were formed by volcanic eruptions from beneath the Pacific Ocean. Their cactistrewn coastlines are often rocky and dry, contrasting with the lush highlands found inland, while hidden beaches share turquoise lagoons with colonies of sea lions. Fog often blankets the islands, encouraging dense vegetation in the highlands. It often feels like one giant natural laboratory – there are even forests of trees that come from the same family as…

With the support of www.expeditioncruisenetwork.com The ‘C’ word has long been a difficult one for some travellers, as there are many people for whom the ship is the destination when choosing a cruise. They’re essentially picking a floating holiday resort that offers onboard entertainment, activities, pools and unlimited food and drink. And while visiting exotic parts of the world and participating in shore excursions may be part of it, for some this is just another activity. Conversely, expedition cruising is all about the destination and the immersive experiences around it. It is very much aimed at the curious, conscious traveller. Rather than a cabaret, the onboard activities will be lectures from relevant experts on anything from penguins to the great polar explorers. Not that these trips just focus on the…

As many expedition cruise companies will attest, the Arctic is primarily an ocean surrounded by land, while the Antarctic is a continent surrounded by ocean. But, when visiting on a cruise, what are the differences? For starters, Antarctica is far colder than the Arctic – but do take notice of the packing list for both. The White Continent also tends to be the winner in terms of sheer frozen beauty. However, if visiting the Arctic in the summer, you will see less snow and plenty of flora. There are significant differences in iconic wildlife, too, although what they do have in common is the incredible Arctic tern, which migrates 40,000km from pole to pole each year. But the biggest difference is in population. Unlike its southern cousin – home to…

Want to give something back as you travel? In the latest batch of citizen-science departures released by Exodus (exodus.co.uk), guests can contribute to scientific research by spending a small part of their trip taking water samples. These are then fed into the IUCN’s eBioAtlas. Trips offering this option include a winter ‘Wilderness Week’ in Finland, 15 days exploring the diversity of Colombia and a 12-day tour of Jordan that takes in its six World Heritage sites. If you’d prefer to concentrate on improving yourself instead, HF Holidays (hfholidays.co.uk) has launched a selection of new hobby-themed trips across the UK. Aimed at travellers looking to learn a new skill or develop an existing one, you can join a four-night ‘Choir and Walking’ holiday in Exmoor, try guided birdwatching in the Yorkshire…

“I think I might be underdressed,” I said to myself. I stared down at my plaid shirt and Levi’s jeans as impeccably stylish people strutted past me in coloured cowboy boots, embroidered western-style shirts, bolo ties and fringed jackets. The cowboy hats deserved their own category: red, black, brown, cream, silver, suede, straw, and a few that were fringed with rhinestones. I started to realise that if I ever came back to the Houston Rodeo, the world’s largest rodeo and livestock show, I’d better learn how to dress the part. It can feel like Black cowboy culture is having a moment – mostly thanks to Beyoncé’s Grammy-award-winning album of the year Cowboy Carter and her subsequent world tour. Yet this culture has been alive and well across the American South…

£5 off! Latin America Travel Festival, 8 November 2025 Celebrate all that is special about Latin America at this unforgettable one-day event at London’s Royal Geographical Society (RGS; see page 160). Wanderlust will be there, and the good news is that Club members get an extra £5 off the ticket price (including the earlybird offer)! We’ll see you there! WIN! Small Earthquakes by Shafik Meghji Discover some of the unexpected effects that the UK has had on South America, and vice versa, in this wonderful blend of travelogue and history by regular Wanderlust contributor Shafik Meghji. It is full of surprises, even if you have travelled extensively in the region yourself. We have three copies to give away. 25% OFF Water-to-Go sugarcane water bottles Completely free of single-use plastic, this…

“Much of the Old City was destroyed after Argentina gained independence… people didn’t want the memory of colonialism” “When the asado is good, we applaud.” The table erupted in cheers as our cooks for the night, Santiago and Nacho, grinned. They’d been standing at the grill for hours, only leaving its side to present boards piled high with steaks, ribs, flanks and sweetbreads. My family and I were in Argentina’s capital for a friend’s wedding, and the asado (barbecue) hosted outside their apartment was the first of many chances that I had to explore city life with locals. As the cheering continued, I checked on my 21-month-old, who was sleeping in his buggy, tired from a day of exploring La Recoleta. Not only had the wedding given my family and…

Explore Lemnos like a local A mix of group activities and personal exploration makes Sunvil’s Activity and Experience Holiday on Lemnos tour a handy getaway for solos who want the structure of a group trip but don’t always want to be surrounded by people. The Greek island of Lemnos is small enough to turn this into a real slow adventure, as you join local guide Annette for a wine tasting at a traditional Lemnian vineyard, countryside strolls to archaeological sites and sunset cruises to spot dolphins in the twinkling Aegean. But it’s the chance to spend time with local people that makes this an immersive escape. Round off the trip with a cooking class hosted by Mrs Rena, in which you’ll learn to prepare Greek dishes before tasting the results.…

Quito Quito is a city like no other. South America’s best-preserved colonial centre – all 375 hectares of it – nestles snugly into the folds of the Andes. Inhabited since pre-Columbian times, the northern capital of the Inca empire later fell under Spanish rule in 1534. It also became the first Latin American city to declare independence from Spain on 10 August 1809. The setting alone is spectacular. Everywhere you look, the views of the mountainous surroundings hit home. Climb the rickety staircase of the neo-Gothic Basílica for one of the finest. The city’s churches are also often striking. Baroque marvels like La Compañía dazzle in gold, while the San Francisco church and convent, at the edge of a warping stone square, remains the beating spiritual heart of the Old…

At nearly 2,850m above sea level, Quito is not only one of the highest capitals in the world, it is also one of the most historically intact. In fact, in 1978 it became the first city to be designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, recognised for its remarkably preserved colonial centre. Quito’s core is a dense network of buildings spanning from the 16th to the 18th century and public squares that reflect a fusion of Spanish, Moorish and Indigenous influences. But this city is also not frozen in time. Its cultural institutions feature museums, historical homes and Baroque churches that are still in use, offering a wide lens on Ecuador’s social and political evolution. This is a city where you can study ancient ceramic funerary figures in the morning, view…

From the rooftop of Cuenca’s iconic blue-domed cathedral, the city stretched out in a vibrant mosaic of terracotta roofs, narrow colonial streets and distant Andean peaks softened by mist. Below, this often overlooked Ecuadorian city stirred with life: the sound of footsteps on cobblestones, the scent of sugar and anise drifting from food stalls, and the unmistakable atmosphere of celebration. I arrived during Corpus Christi week. The streets overflowed with Catholic processions, bursts of fireworks and vendors arranging trays of colourful sweets. Yet beneath the surface, the festival carried older meanings. Its timing and rituals echo the Andean winter solstice celebration of Inti Raymi, and it parallels traditions once practised at Ingapirca, the pre-Columbian complex an hour north, where Cañari and Inca worldviews converge in stone. LAYERS OF EMPIRES I…

Not surprisingly, many expedition cruise companies embrace conservation. Some even go a step further. You would think that the waters along British Columbia’s outer coastlines would be pristine, but the team at Maple Leaf Expeditions were increasingly concerned at the sharp rise of plastic pollution, and during the break in travel during the Covid pandemic, they used the time to start tackling the issue in a hands-on way (see sidebar). Some companies are now taking advantage of having experts on board by offering citizen-science programmes. New Zealand-based Heritage Expeditions, which is currently celebrating its 40th anniversary, has long had conservation at the forefront of its voyages. Its founder, Rodney Russ, was involved in the relocation of the Chatham Island black robin when the species was down to just six birds,…

We’ve often met you at events and shows, but through our Reader Survey, we set out to understand what we all share in common. Meet the typical Wanderlust traveller… Well-informed Wanderlust travellers love to research their journeys. They book their trips with expert tour operators and explore with knowledgeable local guides. Adventurous Wanderlust travellers are curious about the world and always seek out the road less travelled. They delve beneath the surface of a destination to find authentic experiences all year round. Nature-loving Wanderlust travellers relish the feeling of being in the natural world. They delight in exploring the outdoors and encountering wildlife where it/belongs: in the wild! Discerning Wanderlust travellers seek out meaningful culture, art, music and gastronomic experiences to better immerse themselves in the destinations they visit. Eclectic…

Held annually on 12 August, World Elephant Day was founded by Canadian filmmaker Patricia Sims and the Elephant Reintroduction Foundation of Thailand in 2012. The day was created to raise awareness around the plight of elephants and their habitats. 90% Around 90% of the world’s African elephant population has been wiped out in the past century, largely due to the ivory trade. There are around 415,000 African elephants left, with as few as 48,000 Asian elephants. 48km Elephants can swim for up to six hours and have been known to travel as far as 48km in a single trip. Sri Lanka’s Gal Oya National Park is known for its swimming elephants, who travel from island to island in the Senanayake Samudraya reservoir. 1 in 3 Sadly, around a third of…

When Fiji Airways rebranded from Air Pacific in 2013, the aim was to reconnect the airline with the Melanesian culture and heritage that travellers encounter from the moment they land in Fiji. Tradition is the backbone of life in the islands, where lovo feasts (pit barbecues) still accompany local celebrations, and kava ceremonies (a drink made from the root of the yaqona plant) continue to welcome guests to the hill villages. While such things don’t easily translate to a cabin space 10,000m in the air, there are nods to Fijian culture and ceremony throughout flights, offering passengers a taste of what’s to come. The bula spirit At both check-in and boarding you will hear the word “bula!”, a phrase that goes beyond a simple greeting. Its literal translation is ‘life’,…

The way with the views Sometimes you don’t appreciate what is on your doorstep until you stop and pause. I have walked most of the national trails in the UK, hiking thousands of miles in the process. I also live very near the South Downs Way, a 160km long-distance footpath that traces the South Downs ridge from Winchester to Eastbourne. It is by far the most amazing trail that I have ever walked. For breathtaking views down to the English Channel in the south and of the Weald in the north, this route is unsurpassed. The high chalk escarpment crosses a varied landscape of protected habitats. There are also lots of steep and long hills to climb along the way, so the views at the top feel all the more…

As one of the most biodiverse countries in the world, Ecuador has it all: a parched coastline where seabirds glide above the waves, rivers that snake through jungles, glacier-topped volcanoes and wild Andean spaces where llamas roam free. The best way to experience Ecuador’s beauty is to visit one of the country’s 11 national parks. These take in the coast, the high sierra, the Amazon – almost every landscape imaginable. The following are six parks that you can’t afford to miss, plus plenty of tips on what to do while you’re there. 1 Cotopaxi On a hike through Cotopaxi National Park, about 50km south of Quito, you can see giant volcanic boulders littering the landscape and wild horses galloping across an expanse of grassy terrain. On a sunny day, you’ll also…

Long overshadowed by its regional neighbours, whose cuisine is lauded the world over, the food of Ecuador is not to be underestimated. The country may only be roughly the same size as the UK, but it spans wildly different biomes, altitudes and ecosystems, and this is the secret of its cuisine. With 350 varieties of potato grown here, and major exports including bananas and prawns, Ecuador has become a playground for ambitious local chefs wanting to celebrate both their homeland and its diverse flavours. And the key to this variety lies in the incredible array of landscapes. The country’s four distinct areas (Amazon, Andes, coast and Galápagos) all have different climates and topographies, leading to a staggering array of ingredients and regional cooking styles. Fresh seafood from the coast often…

HACIENDA EL PORVENIR, MACHACHI El Pedregal, a narrow, winding stone road – half pre-Columbian, half early colonial – climbs out of the town of Machachi and into the open páramo, leading you away from the suburbs and into chagra country, the rugged domain of Ecuador’s Andean cowboys. At the top of this forgotten route, right on the edge of Cotopaxi National Park, lies Hacienda El Porvenir. This working ranch doesn’t simply offer highland hospitality; it offers transformation. Guests saddle up sturdy criollo horses to explore windswept plains, golden hills and story-laced trails, while hearty, homegrown meals welcome them back to the warmth of a crackling fireplace. Or if you want to go it alone on foot, some 15km of signposted and/or self-guided paths thread their way past waterfalls, woods and…

Explore Vancouver Island like a local Start & finish: Vancouver & Campbell River or Victoria, Canada Vancouver Island is British Columbia in microcosm. You can wander a temperate forest home to black and grizzly bears, stroll driftwood-strewn beaches, kayak among orcas and dolphins, and explore artsy towns swaddled by an 800-year-old cedar forest. Maple Leaf Adventures’ new 12- and 13-day Vancouver Island’s Wild Side Supervoyage catamaran cruise invites guests to take a deep dive into the island’s hidden corners and Indigenous history, exploring everything from remote sea lion colonies in the Brooks Peninsula to the wineries of Cowichan Valley. In between, you’ll hear local stories shared by Indigenous hosts, explore the East Creek for bear sightings and learn about local legend Billy Proctor, who turned his beachcombing hobby into a…

1 Assateague Island spans the border of Maryland and Virginia, USA, and is known for its free-roaming herds of which feral animal? a. Buffalo b. Cow c. Horse d. Sheep 2 Which island nation in the Indian Ocean is the only place in the world where you can see lemurs in the wild? a. Comoros b. Madagascar c. Sri Lanka d. Réunion 3 The endangered blue iguana (which can live nearly 70 years in the wild) is endemic to which Caribbean island nation? a. The Bahamas b. The Cayman Islands c. Puerto Rico d. Trinidad and Tobago 4 What trait is carried by more than half of all hedgehogs on the island of Alderney, UK? a. They have no quills b. They only have four toes (most have five) c. They are twice the size of a European hedgehog d. They are leucistic…