Índex per March 2016 a Wilderness

The grey warbler is New Zealand’s most widely distributed endemic bird species, occurring everywhere on the three main islands where there are trees or shrubs. Alpine tussock is about the only habitat you’re unlikely to find grey warblers. Typically, they are found only in woody vegetation, in mid to high levels of the canopy, making them difficult to observe. Grey warblers have an olive-grey back, a grey face and off-white under parts. The tail is a darker grey, getting darker towards the tip. Contrasting this, the tail has white tips which show as a prominent white band in flight. The bill is black and finely pointed. The blood red eye is its most distinguishing feature. The male has a long trilled song which, given the bird’s size (6g, 11cm), is…

The peaks of Kahurangi National Park may not be the biggest in the South Island, but the distinctive limestone they’re composed of makes them among the most dramatic. It’s an often sheer landscape, reminiscent of Fiordland’s Darran Mountains. Over the eons, elements have dissolved some of the rock faces into almost glacial shapes, with deep fissures that resemble crevasses. At 1875m, Mt Owen is the highest mountain in Kahurangi National Park and access to the summit requires a bit of grunt. The trail begins much lower, at 330m, and climbs steadily to 1250m beneath Billies Knob before dropping steeply through forest to Blue Creek. Some boulder hopping ensues before Granity Pass Hut is reached. Surrounded by towering limestone cliffs, it’s a spectacular spot to overnight. From the hut, a defined…

As trampers we often take for granted that the most beautiful spots in each of our parks come with free access. Even if it means crossing private land; an agreement, a public right of way, or a legislative clause will guarantee the access every Kiwi deserves. Not so in the north-western corner of Ruahine Forest Park – a region the Federated Mountain Clubs of New Zealand regards as the number one access issue facing trampers. The likes of Purity Hut, Crow Hut, McKinnon Hut, Colenso, Wooden Peg and the Hikurangi Range are prime tramping spots, providing rugged forest and tops walking, the quality of which is rarely matched in the North Island. But accessing them has become out of the question for many trampers of late, and is set to…

Heat radiated from the walls of the deep limestone canyon through which we walked, sloshing easily over the Waima River which flows beneath the walls and drains a huge, mostly hidden, catchment of rugged Marlborough backcountry. The Waima reaches the coast, and SH1, about an hour’s drive north of Kaikoura, where most judge it to be just another one of the many rivers draining the steep,inaccessible country west of the highway. Our group of five were entering an area of spectacular gorges and dense forested terrain which has become an increasingly popular destination in recent years – Sawcut Gorge. The trip was planned for just after New Year when fine, warm weather often predominates. Such conditions are a prerequisite for visiting here as much of the tramp entails river bed…

A door hinge creaked in the wind. Tussock swished about frantically in the basin beyond the hut. But inside it was warm, safe and dry. It was easy to muse about Archie now, as the billy hissed steam and we poured another cup of hot chocolate in Archie’s Hut. The lone man going to get his gold, working the battery, sitting here in his little hut amongst tussock and the ever-present wind. His photo smiled down at us from the ceiling. What was it like, we wondered? A solid day’s walk to the goldfields, up from the old homestead at Skippers Creek, we’d travelled through the gorge, pushing through giant stands of beautifully weedy lupins in shades of pink, purple and white. We bypassed a small dam – one of…

If you’re planning a multiday trip in alpine terrain, training can be tough if you’re surrounded by pavements, tarmac and other distinctly unwilderness-y terrain. But Alpine Recreation guide Elke Braun-Elwert has a few tips up her sleeve for how to prepare your body even when miles away from the tough stuff. •Rock hop in a river or on a stretch of coastline near home. I recommend this particularly for building strength in your ankles for cramponing •Trail running is another good one for cramponing. It’s great for fitness obviously, but also for calf strength, which makes front pointing much easier •Head up a local hill with full bottles of water in your pack to practise ascending with weight in your pack. Empty the water at the top so as not…

This quadriceps or thigh stretch might look familiar, though usually done standing. This version can be more relaxing at the end of a long tramp, and allows you to focus on alignment while protecting your knees. 1Lie on your belly. Bring your right forearm underneath your forehead 2Bend your left knee and reach back with your left hand to grab your foot or ankle. If it’s difficult to reach your foot, wrap a strap around your ankle 3Before pulling your foot, squeeze your buttocks, press your pelvis into the ground and think of pointing your knee along the ground directly behind you. You should now be gently squeezing your thigh muscles 4To intensify the stretch, gently pull your foot towards your buttocks 5If this hurts your bent knee, place a…

Big rivers are my adversary. I’ve walked for 30km on the true left of the Landsborough looking for a place to cross, then camped in the hope the snow melt would bury ends at the Waitaki River, with Otago beginning on its southern bank. Fifty years ago, Mona Anderson’s book A river rules my life, describing her time living on the other side of the Wilberforce, was a best seller. Likewise, on any given tramping day it’s crossing a river that often presents the main obstacle. Many’s the time two nights and even four have been spent waiting for a river to drop. This summer I got to spend eight days stuck on one river, and all by choice. However, rather than trying to cross it, the challenge was to…

CARRYING A PLB FOR WOMEN WHERE TO WEAR a PLB is something I have contemplated at length (‘How to carry your PLB’, December 2015). After taking into account the position of pack hip belts and chest straps, garments worn, tramping conditions and the need to have the PLB on your person at all times, the result has been my under-boobs-band. The PLB is worn sideways attached to a band, is tucked out of harm’s way, allows for full use of your arms and is comfortable enough to forget it’s there. To make a band and attach the PLB will require a little sewing. All you need is a strip of elastic band wide enough to accommodate the PLB’s pouch and long enough to stretch around your torso, and the hooks…

Naming a river and its tributaries can be a confusing business. The general convention is that where two rivers meet, the larger of the two carries the name downstream. So when the Mathias and Rakaia rivers merge, downstream they become the Rakaia, as that is the larger of the two. Similarly, in Arthur’s Pass National Park where the sizable White River joins the Waimakariri River near Carrington Hut, downstream the name of the larger river holds sway: the Waimakariri. So far, so simple. The New Zealand Geographic Board makes decisions about such matters. The Board recently corrected the name of the Windon Burn (a tributary of Mararoa River above Southland’s Mavora Lakes) to Winton Burn and at the same time moved the name from the smaller western stem to the…

VISIT A LAKESIDE HUT AND FISH At just over 14km in length, Lake Rotoroa is the largest and longest lake in the park. Its narrow profile reaches well into the centre of Nelson Lakes and makes it an excellent entry point – albeit by boat. You can hire a water taxi to the lakehead where you have a choice of two comfortable huts: Sabine or D’Urville. These huts are located close to the entry points to their namesake rivers, and are linked by a good track and swingbridges, making possible a day trip between the two, fishing the lake shore as you go. The settings are beautiful and tranquil as you are far enough away from the rivers to be removed from their constant roar. Serenity reigns, encapsulated by the…

A classic beauty of a peak, Aspiring has entranced climbers for generations, and has some of the most popular mountaineering routes in the country. That’s why the virgin face on its sunset flank has always been so hard to understand. It’s been more than 30 years since the North West Face was first attempted, but it has lain abandoned since then – until the last weekend in January, when three Queenstown mates finally conquered it. Now Ben Dare, Steve Skelton and Danny Murphy can report it’s a wonderful trip for those hankering after a new challenge. “It was always a bit of a head-scratcher that it’s never been climbed,” Dare says. Dubbed the Matterhorn of the South by climbers, and Tititea (glistening peak) by Maori, at 3033m Aspiring is one…

I first planned to tramp the length of the Hakarimata Range a number of years ago. I called around trying to determine the condition of the track and was warned it was rough as guts, hardly maintained, full of windfall and muddy as hell. Although somewhat deterred, the biggest impediment to that foray was not the state of the track, but the length of road between track ends: some 12km. No taxis operate out of Ngaruawahia, so I would have to try my luck hitching. In the end, I put it in the ‘too hard’ basket. That was before the once neglected Hakarimata Walkway joined the Te Araroa Trail. These days, it’s a far cry from the rough reputation it once had, though the distance between track ends has not…

a day to maintain their weight – an average woman needs 2000kcal – and this is on top of the energy burnt on a tramp.” This means that just an hour-long tramp (and that’s a tough bit of tramping with a pack on – not a stroll by the river) can ‘buy’ an average male a guilt-free milkshake or steak ‘n’ cheese pie. Two hours can ‘buy’ a chinese takeaway or a chicken tikka masala. But this comes with a warning from van Drimmelen, who says although the junk food may not exceed your calorie limit, it won’t provide the nutrients needed to stay healthy. So don’t think you can forge a new lifestyle of tramping in the daytime, followed by Big Macs How many times have you finished a…

These brownies pack an energy punch; the use of black beans adds great protein and chocolate gives that extra boost to keep you powering up hills. PROFILE Makes: 20 pieces Prep time: 15min Cook time: 18min Cost: $14 INGREDIENTS 1 cup cooked black beans 3 tbsp maple syrup or honey 1 tbsp chia seeds ½ tsp vanilla essence ¼ tsp peppermint essence 1 cup gluten free or white flour 1 tsp baking powder ½ cup cocoa powder ½ cup dark chocolate chips ½ cup chopped nuts (optional) ¾ cup milk METHOD Preheat oven to 170°C and line a small baking pan. In a food processor, blend the black beans, maple syrup, vanilla and peppermint essence, and chia seeds until smooth. In a large bowl, sift together flour, baking powder and…

SEND YOUR PIX Get your photo published here to receive a set of four Light My Fire Sporks – one for you and three for your friends! Learn more about Spork at ampro.co.nz. Last Weekend submission criteria can be found at wildernessmag.co.nz…

A trip to Barker Hut is best described as challenging but rewarding. Located amid some of the most beautiful surroundings of Arthur’s Pass National Park, this 10-bunk memorial hut is, at 1560m, the highest hut in the area. Named after Neville Barker, who was killed during the Second World War, it serves as a base for ascents of peaks like the 2408m Mt Murchison. Surrounded by glaciers at the head of White River and with rocky peaks all around, the location is spectacular. But it comes with a price. In this case, a demanding tramp via an unmarked rough route along the White River. The rewards are waiting – not only will you pass the 152m Kilmarnock Falls, but there are also pleasant river crossings and when you finally reach…

I’ve just spent a couple of days cycling in Whakarewarewa Forest, probably better known as the Redwoods, in Rotorua. What a gem and what an asset to a regional city. The 5600ha forest offers around 130km of superb mountain biking trails catering for all levels of ability, as well as more gentle forest roads for the likes of me, and a great network of walking and horse-riding tracks. But what struck me as I lazily pedalled along a pumice road carpeted with pine needles, was the fact that an industry considered one of New Zealand’s most dangerous – a working plantation forest – and public recreation can co-exist harmoniously together. Given forestry’s abysmal record in work accidents, one might ask why cyclists, walkers and horse-riders haven’t had trees dropped on…

The Hughes 500 climbs steeply above the bluffs of Bulmer Creek. Below, 20 cavers tramp up an improbably steep route, wading through the creek, wasp-infested bush and overhanging cliffs on course to the small lake at the head of Bulmer Creek. I’m glad to have drawn the long straw to fly in with the expedition gear. It’s a surreal feeling to be dropped off at the lake, feeling fresh and with dry feet. The expedition base camp is located beside the lake, beneath Castle Rocks on the southern side of Mt Owen. The lake is shallow and teeming with an unusually high diversity of life. Massive marble cliffs tower overhead, topped by an undulating sea of karst. The bizarre landscape is riddled with holes and cracks etched out over hundreds…

The weekend weather forecast for Wellington was terrible, as is quite frequently the case. It was definitely not a weekend for doing anything adventurous, or anything that included tops or rivers. However, we decided that Burn Hut was still a viable option, and provided we left early we were likely to dodge the worst of the weather. Burn Hut is in northern Tararua Forest Park, not far from Shannon. The gravelled access road winds its way towards the Mangahao Hydro Electric Power Station for around 5km. We parked the cars at Mangahao Lower No 2 Reservoir and crossed the dam to the start of the track. It was still nice and sunny at this point, and we enjoyed a pleasant walk along the Mangahao River, before heading to a high…

Treasured by Southland trampers, the Takitimu Mountains stand in Fiordland’s rain shadow, which makes them a good destination when the weather’s bad to the west. But don’t underestimate them; this is a range of dissected valleys and craggy tops that rises to 1650m. It features marked but unformed tracks in most valleys, while Moir’s Guide South offers a tantalising selection of off-track routes linking them. A network of ex-Forest Service huts provides shelter from the storm.. 1 Aparima Hut A Forest Service six-bunker with an old farm hut beside it to take the overflow, Aparima Hut stands at the junction of several routes. 2 Princhester-Aparima Track The main north-south route through the range’s eastern sector, this provides straight forward travel with a maximum altitude of 800m, making it a good…

FILL There are numerous fills – high-density open-cell foam, down, synthetic and plain air – wrapped in a waterproof nylon shell. Anti-fungal treatments will prevent fungus and bacteria from growing inside the mat – caused by moist breath. Some foam-filled sleeping mats are die-cut or horizontally cored to reduce their weight. SHAPE AND SIZE Most mats come in several sizes – short, regular and large. They can be tapered to save weight and make laying two mats side-by-side easier. Shorter, tapered models are perfect for summer camping. Winter models are full length and insulated. Prices can vary depending on size.. THICKNESS Thickness correlates directly to warmth (measured as an R-value). Advances in materials and fills have allowed manufacturers to provide ever-thicker mattresses at ever-lighter weights. It’s not uncommon to see…