Índex per January 2021 a Wilderness

HOW LUCKY ARE WE TO BE KIWIS? In a year that kept so many indoors, Aotearoa sure dodged a bullet or two in 2020. Reflecting on the difficult year, I was thrilled to count more than 40 days spent tramping, including three Great Walks and 13 new huts bagged. I’m sure to some of our more intrepid readers, 40 days is a disappointing effort, but for me it’s a record – and all achieved despite lockdowns, full-time work, and living in suburban Mt Wellington. I don’t think we appreciate how lucky we are, and thru-hiking filmmaker Elina Osborne agrees. In December, she set out to walk Te Araroa Trail, meeting the locals, sharing huts and staying with trail angels (see Walkshorts, p10). She says she was walking for her friends…

Get your photo published here to receive $30 Silva Pocket Thermo Compass for accurate wayfinding and temperature-sussing. Learn more about Silva compasses at e.ampro.co.nz. Last Weekend submission criteria can be found at wildernessmag.co.nz…

AS WITH MOST in the tourism sector, Shaun Monk experienced some “nervy” times in 2020. Shortly before the country plunged into lockdown, he threw in his “one-hundred-and-something thousand dollar” a year job to guide hunters around the 7000ha Island Hills Station in North Canterbury. Business had been good – until it wasn’t. “I had clients booked from overseas, as well as Kiwis in the hunting season. I had booked out the whole period – and then I lost all the bookings,” he says. With the majority of his hunting clients hailing from overseas, Monk knew the status quo would be unsustainable, and something had to give. After discussions with the station owners, the decision was made to reopen the station’s walking track – formerly the Hurunui High Country Track. First…

WHILE IT WAS a bivouac that attracted me to Mt Sunday, my lasting impression will always be the forest of twisted limbs, the rattling leathery leaves and the sagging strips of bark, which fluttered in the breeze. I’d chosen an overnight trip to Mt Sunday Biv, situated at the eastern end of the Richmond Range, not far from Blenheim. The track climbed steeply through familiar beech forest, but as I gained altitude this was replaced by a surprisingly wide band of lancewood tree daisy (Olearia lacunosa) – a small tree distinctive for its long, dark green leaves and flaking orange-brown bark. While I am familiar with this member of the tree daisy family, I’d never seen so much of it, nor specimens so big. Dense groves of the tree dominate…

ON A RIVERSIDE sandwiched between spectacular peaks near the head of the West Matukituki Valley, Shovel Flat offers an accessible campsite to experience the grandeur of Mt Aspiring National Park. The campsite is about a four-hour walk from the Raspberry Flat car park in the West Matukituki Valley, just before the trail begins the steep climb towards French Ridge and Liverpool huts. From the car park, the trail follows a 4WD track through Mt Aspiring Station, which has been farmed by the Aspinall family for 100 years. After about 10 minutes the track passes the swingbridge to the Rob Roy Glacier Track (check access as the track has been closed for repairs) and continues up the valley, revealing impressive views of the glacier, Rob Roy Peak (2644m) and Low Peak…

Don French could never resist the call of the mountains. As a kid growing up in rural Masterton, hours were whiled away staring out the window and memorising the rolling summits of the Tararua Range – his schoolwork forgotten. “I was never going to be in the first 15, I had no academic prowess, and no skills in the arts,” he remembers. “But when I went tramping, I found I could walk up hills just as well as any other kid, and that fed me to a certain degree.” French followed his daydreams to his first summit in the seventh form – “playing hooky” to climb Mt Taranaki. He discovered he was “quite good” at it – a reinforcing moment for a teenager who didn’t quite fit anywhere else. “I…

Kiwis are a funny bunch. We’re desperate to explore the far-flung reaches of Nepal or Europe on an OE, but when it comes to seeing our own backyard, we stick to the familiar: the Hooker Valley Track, Roy’s Peak or the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. Here at Wilderness, we reckon there’s great satisfaction in stumbling upon hidden gems like these nine destinations. 1 Adventure island Aotea/Great Barrier Island, Auckland KĀKĀ WHEEL OVERHEAD, croaking as they alight in the pōhutukawa. Ablaze with crimson flowers, the tree’s gnarled limbs overhang the sea. White-sand beaches with wild surf in the east; rocky, forest-fringed harbours in the west. Inland rise monolithic rock faces, the eroded stubs of an ancient volcano, surrounded by vast forest swathes, including kauri. These are just some of the delights I’ve…

THE BEAR CRAWL utilises several muscles at one time and by using muscles together, you can create greater stability, strength and endurance. My partner and I called on this movement on a Tararua ridgetop recently when we were exposed to fierce winds and couldn’t stand upright. The bear crawl allowed us to move across safely. This exercise also strengthens the glutes, hamstrings, and back muscles – the extensor muscle group responsible for keeping us erect when we become fatigued and there’s a temptation to hunch your back and take the load on your shoulders. Here’s how to do the BEAR CRAWL 1. Begin by activating your lower abdominals – gently draw your navel towards your spine, creating a hollow to tighten the muscles which support your back and initiate other…

RECENTLY I WITNESSED two examples of confirmation bias which reminded me how easily this can happen and its potential consequences. In the first case, a group misidentified their location on the map. The features around them looked like the point on the map where they thought they were. Further up the hill, there were several points where the features looked similar. Because they had mis-identified their first point they mis-identified each subsequent point based on time travelled from the previous point. Even though they expected to reach the top in 10 minutes, they kept on climbing for a total of 25 minutes. How did this happen? The group had taken a longer route around the base of the hill before climbing up to the first mis-identified point. The time taken…

NEW ZEALAND GEAR distributor Outfitters is aiming to become carbon neutral. The move follows a commitment from two of its top imported brands, Rab and Lowe Alpine, to be carbon neutral and net zero by 2030, meaning they will reduce carbon emissions and balance any remaining emissions through carbon credits. Achieving net zero means the company will not release more non-avoidable Greenhouse gasses into the atmosphere than it neutralises with actual carbon removal. Outfitters owner Neil Stichbury said environmental initiatives should continue all the way through the supply chain, from production to delivery. “We’re starting on a long journey of doing all we can to be net zero by 2030,” he said. “If any brand goes carbon neutral or is aiming for net zero, and local distributors aren’t doing the…

RESTING ON THE MOSSY slopes of Mt Taranaki, Holly Hut is a popular pitstop for trampers on the Round the Mountain Track and Pouakai Circuit, as well as a thrilling overnight destination suitable for beginner trampers. The hut is accessible from several routes, though the most direct is via North Egmont Visitor Centre on the Holly Hut Track. It begins on an excellently formed gravel track that climbs south-west through gradually shrinking tree cover, eventually emerging onto an exposed saddle. This is a good place to assess the weather, as there is little shelter now until the hut. The track cuts an ascending line across the mountain’s slopes, crossing valleys and slips beneath dramatic cliffs. Boomerang Slip, which previously made the track inaccessible, is a sobering reminder that the volcano’s…

THE GOLDEN STAIRS Track is named for the mass of yellow flowers that gild the kowhai trees on the sheltered hillsides of Whangape Harbour. Pawarenga Road, narrow and unsealed, skirts Rotokakahi River, passing the scattered buildings of the tiny settlement before ending at the beach. We parked beside the marae and admired St Gabriel's Church, standing on a rise behind the marae with bush-covered hillsides as a backdrop. Saint Gabriel's is one of the earliest Māori churches in the area, built in 1899 from kauri timber sawn by the local community. The Golden Stairs Track isn’t easy to find. Parts were overgrown and remnants of a previous loop track added to the confusion. (The track is not on DOC land and who maintains it, if anyone, is unknown.) However, it…

We found the plastic barrel buried in the long grass near Sayer Hut. It was one of those 55 gallon drums (designed for shipping liquid food products) you see everywhere: in the back of warehouses, as rainwater containers, lashed together to make pontoons, but this was the first time I’d seen one buried in the backcountry. There were 14 of us on this tramp, including six children. It was the largest party any of us had ever tramped with, spanning three generations of family and ages ranging from 10 to 65. I’m not sure if it was strength of numbers, but we seemed to be developing a knack of stumbling upon strange, half-buried objects and uncovering historical artefacts. Wrestling the barrel free from the clutches of the grass, we stood…

I FEEL COLD as raindrops seep through my hair onto my neck and, with icy fingers, I grip my hiking poles tighter. I’m watching the sun flare red with the last light of day, illuminating the clouds rolling over the peaks but I’m not seeing the hut I’m so desperately searching for. “Just over the next peak; it’s just over the next peak,” I tell myself and push on, trying not to stumble from the cold and exhaustion, and also from the beautifully distracting sunset. What got me here? I’m not injured or lost but potentially close to both. I’m an outdoor guide and teach decision making and risk management for a living. So which choices led me to be in such a potentially hazardous scenario? The decision-making processes we…

TO HELP BREAK UP the monotony of crackers and chutney I like to take something a bit different for the first lunch of a tramp. This recipe is one to make at home the night before so it’s ready to go for the next day. Profile Prep time 20 mins Cook time 1 hour Serves 3-4 Cost $8-12 Recipe 1kg pumpkin 1 cup uncooked quinoa ½ cup olives ½ cup sundried tomatoes, sliced Large handful of rocket or spinach ½ cup almonds ¼ cup walnuts 1 large leek or onion 4 tbsp olive oil Salt and pepper Dressing ½ cup balsamic vinegar 2 tsp wholegrain mustard 1 clove garlic, minced ¼ cup olive oil 1 tsp honey Method Preheat the oven to 180°, peel the pumpkin and cut it into…

Renowned New Zealand mountaineer Bill McLeod reckoned that if you couldn’t eat it or abseil off it, what was the point of carrying it. While trying to follow this philosophy, writer and former outdoor retail store manager Paul Hersey found that packing for a backcountry trip almost became a fetish. “These days, thankfully, it’s mellowed to more of a measured fixation,” he says. While Hersey’s trips are generally with a mountaineering objective in mind, much of the gear he carries is also suitable for tramping. “The main difference is that climbing kit is heavy and takes up most of the pack. Therefore, everything else needs to be lightweight but still do the job.” SHELTER I have an MSR Hubba Hubba NX. It’s not much cop in high winds and is…

MATERIAL Synthetic materials tend to dominate as they are lightweight and quick-drying, wicking moisture away from the skin. Elastane blends are also common, which help ensure a tighter fit without restricting movement. Patagonia Airshed Cap $69.99 Breathable and quick-drying polyester cap made for high-output sports. 87% recycled material, Fair Trade Certified sewn. 60g. www.patagonia.co.nz Marmot Aerobora Short Sleeve Shirt $99.95 Quick-drying moisture-wicking AirExchange polyester fabric, UPF25 sun protection, chest pocket. 180g. www.marmotnz.co.nz POCKETS Multiple pockets are common, but too many can add weight and more seam friction without providing extra utility. Stick to what you need. Zippered pockets keep items like keys and cards secure. Rab Kinetic Alpine Pants $329.95 Stretch waterproof pants, moisture-wicking inner, ceramic print overlays in high wear areas, low profile waist adjustment, zipped expanding ankle closure,…

A NEW, FAMILY-FRIENDLY cycle trail has opened in Westport. It’s the first leg of a 55km coastal trail that locals believe will attract a wider range of people than the riders currently flocking to the region’s advanced mountain bike trails. The 5km Pūwaha section of the proposed, 55km Kawatiri Coastal Trail runs from Westport to Carters Beach and wends its way through wetlands, coastal forest, a wildlife sanctuary and historic Maori and European settler sites. A 45m suspension bridge is a standout feature on the track, which was ridden or walked by several hundred locals within days of opening. Pūwaha is the first of nine stages of the proposed walking and cycling heritage trail that will link Westport with the communities of Carters Beach, Cape Foulwind, Tauranga Bay and Charlestown,…

The categories 1 HUTS AND CAMPING Celebrate the uniqueness of New Zealand hut life and locations, or share the perfect camping scene. 2 OUT THERE For the wilderness photos that make you go ‘wow’. Whether taken from a mountaintop or deep in the bush, it should be a view to savour and the best photos will feature trampers, climbers, kayakers, bikers – anyone enjoying New Zealand’s wilderness. 3 WILDLIFE Whether it’s birds, insects, plants, trees or a lone deer or chamois captured in the mountains, send us your best shots of NZ’s flora and fauna. The prizes OVERALL WINNER The photographer who takes the e judged to be the best entry will win a Panasonic Lumix G85 with 12-60mm lens worth $1199. Weather and dust proof design make it the…

IT’S THE MOST AMAZING publishing service you’ve never heard of. Each month, Blind Low Vision New Zealand narrates hundreds of pages of written content, loads it all to CD and posts it to its more than 12,000 members – all of whom have impaired vision. Each CD includes hours of content – everything from the latest crime thriller to non-fiction books, lecture material, exams, magazines and even company annual reports – that is unique to the reading tastes of each member. It’s a colossal undertaking and for the recipients of the narrated material it provides a crucial connection to, and participation in, society that they would otherwise miss out on. “They're depending on this information; it's not just a recreational read,” says Joe Gilfillan who oversees the BLVNZ library and…

JOHN TAIT HUT is named after a Scotsman who emigrated to New Zealand after the Second World War and joined the Nelson Tramping Club. It was largely thanks to his efforts that the first John Tait Hut was completed in 1951. But within 25 years that original hut was proving too small for the growing popularity of the Travers Valley, now part of Nelson Lakes National Park. Rangers George Lyon and Bruce Postill set about constructing a larger hut in a sunnier clearing a short way north of the old site. The new hut was completed in 1978 and despite significant renovations since, retains something of the ‘Lyon style’ of hut design unique to Nelson Lakes. It’s a grand position for a hut, open to sun from the north, and…

JUST TO THE north-east of Lake Taupō and little more than a 10-minute drive from the town itself lies Tauhara, a 1088m dormant lava dome that rises high above the surrounding area.  This impressive maunga has caught my eye many times on trips through Taupō and I recently discovered it was possible to explore the peak on foot. At the car park, there is a large information panel giving a warm welcome to Tauhara Maunga along with mention of the cultural and spiritual significance it holds for Māori. It also reminds walkers that the first section of trail crosses private land with livestock and machinery having right of way. After a couple of fence stiles, the path follows bright yellow markers up a steepish grazing hill to the treeline. Then, it…

Massive earthquake uplift may have transformed the rugged Kaikoura coastline, but one thing that hasn’t changed is the spectacular backdrop of the often snow-capped Seaward Kaikoura Range. With a scenic easy bike trail roaming the land between coast and mountain, it’s no wonder I keep coming back to this amazing place. We began the Kaikoura Trail from South Bay where it follows the coast south on single-track, benched nicely between SH1 and the sea. We rode past the manicured golf course and through an airy pine plantation before heading inland just before reaching the Kowhai River. The Kaikoura Cycling Club has been busy digging their way from the sea to the base of Mt Fyffe on the Kowhai River's true left bank, creating a trail that meanders in the nicest…

WHEN SOMEONE needs rescuing, it’s all go go go. Each member of a typical four-person helicopter rescue crew has a pre-assigned task: the two pilots plan the flight and calculate how much fuel will be required; the winch operator and medic install harnesses and gear. Then systems are checked, a team briefing is held and within minutes, the helicopter launches. If you're the one who's called for help, here’s how you can ensure an efficient helicopter rescue. GOT your PLB? A PLB is your best bet for a quick rescue. Switch it on and leave it on until help arrives. Leaving it on allows the chopper crew to zero in on your location. Remember to switch it off once you’ve been assisted. Phone it in If you don't have a…